1point3liter's Twin Turbo LSX FD

[shainiac]

If you have the Magnum F, then the output seal also may match the Fbody T56. Although I believe it still uses the Ford 31 spline output instead of the T56 27 spline.

[1point3liter]

shit, you are right. i forgot that the output shaft is larger.

[1point3liter]

yea, it’s a fbody tail housing.

[JustJewIt]

Glad to see this thing is alive again. Planning on doing any half mile events with the car after the changes/updates have been made? Or planning on just cruising in it from here on out?

[1point3liter]

Glad to see this thing is alive again. Planning on doing any half mile events with the car after the changes/updates have been made? Or planning on just cruising in it from here on out?

No plans for 1/2 mile in the near future, maybe eventually.

[blacksi]

Love the gauges, it makes me want to do mine now...  Oddly enough I just sent mine out today to get repaired.  My speedo and tach would only start working after driving for 30 or so min.

[1point3liter]

Update:

1. The weld across the top/back of my coolant tank popped. It happened in my driveway within a minute or two of warming up the car. I noticed when I initially tested it that it was definitely ballooning. I probably should have made it out of 1/8 sheet instead of .090. Anyway, I rewelded it and also welded a piece of 1/8 angle on the top of the tank to reinforce it. it's not flexing anymore, but I'm probably going to remake the tank later.
2. One of my turbo oil feeds started to leak at the fitting, I found an extra hose-end and swapped it out. I ordered new hose to replace both lines and will be putting some heat shield on both of them.
3. The transmission output seal leak appears to have been a vent issue. the vent tube cap was faulty, i put a mac valve filter in it and everything seems dry now. I'm still monitoring it.
4. My belt hasn't walked since making previous adjustments, I believe this is fully sorted.
5. My master cylinder doesn't have enough adjustment. I ordered a 7/8 to replace the 3/4 master.
6. I've been refining the idle and driveability portions of the tune. The car has never idled better, my cold start is not as good as it was, but slowly getting that back in check.
7. I was blowing some oil out the BOV. I made some adjustments to the scavenge setup and I THINK its good now. I'm still getting a little mist out the BOV, but also havent pulled the IC and pipes to clean them out since the previous issue. I'm still monitoring.

All that said, I believe motor and transmission are finally dry and leak-free. I have a couple hundred miles on the new transmission and clutch so i will probably start beating on them this weekend. The car makes 8# on the current springs. I looked back to my initial dyno session for this motor a few years ago and had the same springs and surprisingly the same timing map still. The car made as low as around 850rw on the springs and up to 1050 with the boost maxed out. I think I'm going to keep these lighter springs in it for now as thats about the right power range before the car becomes a handful to drive.

[shainiac]

Do you have any kind of check valves on the turbo oil feeds? I'm not running a scavenge pump, but I noticed that I'd get a bit of oil smoke on hot re-starts. Oil would gravity drain past the seals once the turbine stopped spinning. I added this check valve and it seems to have fixed the turbo oil leaks. It's also a 10psi cracking pressure, so it reduces the feed pressure, which my setup also needed. It's 1/8" FNPT in and 1/8" MNPT out, so it's super easy to plumb also.
https://www.discovervalve.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=INCVSS01

[1point3liter]

Do you have any kind of check valves on the turbo oil feeds? I'm not running a scavenge pump, but I noticed that I'd get a bit of oil smoke on hot re-starts. Oil would gravity drain past the seals once the turbine stopped spinning. I added this check valve and it seems to have fixed the turbo oil leaks. It's also a 10psi cracking pressure, so it reduces the feed pressure, which my setup also needed. It's 1/8" FNPT in and 1/8" MNPT out, so it's super easy to plumb also.
https://www.discovervalve.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=INCVSS01

I'm glad you mentioned this. I don't have check valves but have experienced similar issues.

What I did was install a timer relay that keeps the scavenge pump running for a set time after power off.

Im triggering the scavenge and fuel pump off the same highside from the computer.
* Any time I cut my motor off, it continues to run the scavenge pump for 45 seconds to help get rid of any oil that drains down.
* When the key is turned on, the AEM primes the fuel pump and turns on the scavenge pump. The fuel pump cuts off after 2 seconds, the scavenge pump runs for an additional 45 seconds.

The timer helped, but I know it didnt completely solve the issue because when i fixed the turbo feed line issue, i could see down into the feed on the turbo and see oil still sitting there. When I kicked on the pump, I could see it disappear.

I don't have check valves, but I considered running the feed lines up over the motor and down to the turbos.


These valves look like a better solution. I just ordered a pair.   thanks!

[1point3liter]

Love the gauges, it makes me want to do mine now...  Oddly enough I just sent mine out today to get repaired.  My speedo and tach would only start working after driving for 30 or so min.

thanks! yea, I can't believe I waited this long to fix/replace my gauges.
How's your car doing? It seems like forever since we met up at Clayton.

[blacksi]

Love the gauges, it makes me want to do mine now...  Oddly enough I just sent mine out today to get repaired.  My speedo and tach would only start working after driving for 30 or so min.

thanks! yea, I can't believe I waited this long to fix/replace my gauges.
How's your car doing? It seems like forever since we met up at Clayton.

Yeah, it has been forever.  Unfortunately the gauge place sent it back to me with a refund and said unrepairable which seems off since they work after driving for 30 or so minutes...

I'm working on my tune also I popped the 5.7 a while back so I put in a forged 6.0 and a larger 78 mm turbo.  Like yours I found the worst thing was letting it sit for a year. Water pump, power steering and rear trans seal all started to leak once I started driving again.

[1point3liter]

Im heading to LSfest next month so I decided to do some improvements on my car trailer.

The fenders were obnoxiously high. Loading and unloading the car was probematic, i'd have to load the car as far to the right on the trailer as I could and try to carefully crack the door open and slide out. I originally wanted to make the left fender removable, but decided to just lower them so i dont have to worry about anything and can completely open both doors with no worries.

I figured I might as well add a winch and toolbox while i was at it. Im almost finished with both and then the trailer gets a fresh coat of paint.

So I got a 3d printer. Blake recommended I try a Prusa machine. I love this thing!
I got the machine about a week ago and have been learning fusion 360. I already designed and printed my first car part!

It's a new single DIN switch / gauge panel. I attached a picture of the latest revision. I need to tweak the clip that attaches it to the car a hair, new version is printing now. I will be sanding it down and coating it with PEM when im happy with the fit.

If anyone is interested in this first revision one, let me know and I will drop it in the mail. It fits great, but could latch in a little better. im sure it could be fixed with a little epoxy to build up the fastening clips a touch.   It is setup to accept AEM 11 position POT switches, but other rotary switches fit too. The far left dial is my JL audio volume adjustment with a matching AEM knob on it.

I also made a mock-up brake caliper adapter. I bought one of those cx9 big brake kit kits a few years ago, but the calipers wouldn't clear my CCW's with the cx9 rotor offset. I decided to build my own kit with different parts. I will be selling the old kit eventually. If you are interested, shoot me a DM.

[1point3liter]

more pix

[Cobranut]

Nice work on the trailer. 

The clutch on my racecar won't allow driving into the trailer, so I have to make a flush removable winch mount for my enclosed trailer. 
I think I can use your idea, but turn the receiver vertical and mount it through the floor to a crossmember.
Just have to figure out a way to lock it into place, since I won't be able to reach the hitch pin location.
I may just angle the receiver and shank forward a bit so it can't lift when loaded.
I'll have to add a lid of some type to seal the hole when the winch isn't in place.

[digitalsolo]

Trailer work looks nice!