Bikedads Constant Rebuild

[oneslow7]

I use felpro (KS2629 - part number for complete gasket kit for sbc) for all my gaskets and have never had a complaint. When I install intake gaskets on sbc's I typically will put a thin layer of High TemP RTV across head surface to help with adhesion of the intake gasket and always use the steel felpro gaskets. You may or may not like that idea, its just what I do and have not had one fail yet.

[bikedad]

I use felpro (KS2629 - part number for complete gasket kit for sbc) for all my gaskets and have never had a complaint. When I install intake gaskets on sbc's I typically will put a thin layer of High TemP RTV across head surface to help with adhesion of the intake gasket and always use the steel felpro gaskets. You may or may not like that idea, its just what I do and have not had one fail yet.

I use Gaskacinch on the head side for gasket adhesion with a little RTV at the water jackets on the intake manifold side. I think a key reason for the failure is there are no mounting bolts in the center for the Vortec heads. My timing was off at one time and caused a backfire through the carb. That's all it takes to push that gasket up and cause the breaks.
The Fel-Pro gaskets are thinner and have the blue seal on them. I think they will hold better. I'll still use the Gaskacinch on the heads to prevent the gasket from moving while installing the intake.

[N2v8fcs]

Did you get your T-56 installed?

[bikedad]

Did you get your T-56 installed?

Not yet. Haven't had much time to work on it. 

[texfc]

I feel your pain Don, it's been months since I been able to do any meaningful work on my seven.  I hate it when real life gets in the way of my fun.  I have my hopes up that Father's Day weekend I can get some work in.  Most days I feel like this:

[bikedad]

I feel your pain Don, it's been months since I been able to do any meaningful work on my seven.  I hate it when real life gets in the way of my fun.  I have my hopes up that Father's Day weekend I can get some work in.  Most days I feel like this:

  Yeah, that pretty much sums it up in a nutshell.

[bikedad]

Got the T56 installed. Plus new heads.
The T5 held up fairly well all things considered. About 60 runs at GLD and countless

showing off on the street.
About 2 months ago I was having my usual fun. Pulling out of a parking lot from a stop

light drifting, banging gears and smoking tires. Just as I was going into third the whole

car felt like it lifted off the ground with a loud bang. No more forward motion and the

transmission sounding like ball bearings rolling around in steel garbage can.
Yup, trans grenaded with flourish.

I was going to just purchase another T5 and call it a day. A few of you convinced me that I

need to go T56. I started looking for a T56 from an LT1 because that bolts right up to my

Gen1 bellhousing. Due to my 2 piece rear main seal I found that I would need to swap my

flywheel with a conversion flywheel that would allow this to work. That flywheel cost about

$550 dollars. Plus the cost of the trans which usually run around $1500 for a used LT1 T56

and a new clutch assembly to work with the conversion I started to change my mind.
Jordan pointed me to a transdapt plate that would allow me to use my current

clutch,flywheel and bellhousing setup with an LS1 T56.
The cost of the transdapt plate was $200. I sourced an LS1 T56 from LS1Tech out of Texas

for $1100 shipped.
So, back to the 6 speed route.
Before I blew the tranny, (wait, that doesn't sound right) Before the trans blew I was

having some issues with burning oil at cylinders 3 and 5. I figured the intake manifold

gaskets broke on me again. (it happened to me when the engine was a 355 right after I put

on the massaged Vortec heads) I was going to replace the gaskets but also decided to

replace the heads with Edelbrock Etec 200cc aluminum heads. (my current heads were iron

Vortec heads that have been completely reworked)

I finally got everything done this weekend except exhaust because my system was designed

around the T5 and it's trans brace. I have an appointment to have the exhaust system redone

Friday.

Here's the trans:


Pulling the motor and trans:




Chasing the threads for ARP headbolts:


The new heads:


Getting close:


Here's the Gen1 block 2 piece rear main seal:


Centerforce DF Clutch with 6 puck disc:


Bellhousing, TOB:


Transdapt plate to mount LS1 T56 to Gen1 SBC:


Fork with plate installed:


Bolting the Transdapt to Bellhousing:


LS1 T56 bolted to Transdapt. The Transdapt plate holds the TOB in place so there is no
issue with trying to get the TOB lined up.
If I need to pull the transmission at a future date then I just unbolt the 7 bolts and



Back in the car and bolted up. I had to use a special T56 trans brace manufactured by

Granny's Speed shop. Pretty much bolt the motor in, mount the brace to the trans.
Raise the trans into position and drill new holes for the brace. I aslo had to have my

driveshaft resized due to the extra length of the T56. I have my DS
work done by Machine Service in Waukesha. 1 day turn around. Pretty sweet!


With the T5 the shifter was way forward. I had to cut out a large hole to accommodate it.

With the T56 it now sits back in the stock position.
I cut out some sheet metal and covered the old hole. (I'm not using this shifter. I'm using

my Steeda handle from my Pro-5.0 shifter from the T5.

[Ebush]

Looks great Don! Hope to see you at SNS again.

[screamin88]

Awesome! Looks great Don!  Can't wait to rip on this in a few weeks,  Oh! and invite that tranny too! lol

[N2v8fcs]

Great progress.
The 2.66 first gear will be a lot better for DD  vs. the 2.95 T-5 first .

[rk970]

Don I have a question.. Why are you running non-vortec intake manifold gaskets?  The L31 vortec intake manifold gaskets are .120" thick. The marine version are aluminum with bonded viton around the intake and water ports.  My blocked was decked to 8.996" .003 clean up cut on the heads. I needed to take .040" off each side of the intake manifold to get the ports to line up with the correct manifold gaskets. 
I ask because a paper gasket will move/break in the center part of the manifold.
rk

[bikedad]

Don I have a question.. Why are you running non-vortec intake manifold gaskets?  The L31 vortec intake manifold gaskets are .120" thick. The marine version are aluminum with bonded viton around the intake and water ports.  My blocked was decked to 8.996" .003 clean up cut on the heads. I needed to take .040" off each side of the intake manifold to get the ports to line up with the correct manifold gaskets. 
I ask because a paper gasket will move/break in the center part of the manifold.
rk

Are you referring to those Edelbrock gaskets? Those are what Edelbrock sent me with the intake manifold originally when I first built the motor.
I'm not using those this time. What you describe is exactly what happened and I was blowing oil at #3 and #5. The gaskets I have now are Fel-Pro Blue (I don't recall the part number because I threw the packaging away and I'm not currently at home) that were recommended by a Fel-Pro rep. He also told me not to use Gaskacinch. Install dry. There are little guide pins in the heads to hold the gasket in place when installing the intake.
I hope these work better.

[rk970]

Forgot about the guide pins.. sounds like you have the correct gaskets.  Take a flash light to make sure there is not a huge mismatch between the manifold and ports.

[screamin88]

Forgot about the guide pins.. sounds like you have the correct gaskets.  Take a flash light to make sure there is not a huge mismatch between the manifold and ports.

This^  I have seen some gaskets over hang at least an 1/8 inch with aftermarket heads and intake..

[bikedad]

Dyno today with all the mods applied from last session. (about 2 years ago)
Edelbrock 800CFM Thunder carb
Edelbrock Etec 200cc aluminum heads
Custom 2.5" x-pipe exhaust
115 octane leaded race gas mixed with 93 octane unleaded 10% ethanol.
Might need to increase secondary jet size. Leaning out a little.

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