Bikedads Constant Rebuild

[largeorangefont]

Nice Don!

Pitch the drilled rotors in the trash, they always crack like that. Good quality blank rotors are what you want to use. You can use slotted, but never drilled. Spring for the Brembo blank front rotors if you can find them. Otherwise use a name brand (Centric, Raybestos, ACDelco) professional quality blank rotors. I am running ACDelco Professional rotors in the rear right now on my car and surprisingly they have been holding up great. They were $25 shipped each from Amazon.

EBC green pads are not up to track duty as you noticed. You may also want to remove the backing plates. That will help get more air to the brakes

[bikedad]

Fronts are probably 17x9 +24, the factory 95 Cobra R size and offset.

Rears are most likely 17x10.5 +27

I run the 17x9 +24 all around on 255/40/17 tires.

I believe you're correct Ash. I vaguely remember seeing those specs when I first got the rims.

[dtsan]

That's some good info. Glad nothing too bad happened. Your brakes looked like they got really toasty lol.  Are those rear wheels Blake's old ones?

[bikedad]

That's some good info. Glad nothing too bad happened. Your brakes looked like they got really toasty lol.  Are those rear wheels Blake's old ones?

The wheels with the ET Streets are from jasons.

[dtsan]

I knew those looked familiar!

[N2v8fcs]

have you installed the Ronin 8.8 yet or you still T2?

[bikedad]

have you installed the Ronin 8.8 yet or you still T2?

The Ronin 8.8 swap is still in progress Robert. That track day event was still with the TII.
I ran into a little snag with the Mustang small flange. Ford Racing sent me the 1350 and I wanted the 1310. I didn't feel like hacking into the cradle for the larger size. The 1350 was installed on the diff and lash set. I had it replaced with the 1310 and reset the lash. I had to re-verify driveshaft length also. Right now I'm waiting on my new driveshaft. Machine Service was closed over the holidays. It should be done right after New Years.

No rush. I haven't had time to work on the car anyhow. Besides, I won't be able to drive it even after it's done. We have a season up here in the great midwest called Winter and they use salt on the roads. 

[bikedad]

Nice Don!

Pitch the drilled rotors in the trash, they always crack like that. Good quality blank rotors are what you want to use. You can use slotted, but never drilled. Spring for the Brembo blank front rotors if you can find them. Otherwise use a name brand (Centric, Raybestos, ACDelco) professional quality blank rotors. I am running ACDelco Professional rotors in the rear right now on my car and surprisingly they have been holding up great. They were $25 shipped each from Amazon.

EBC green pads are not up to track duty as you noticed. You may also want to remove the backing plates. That will help get more air to the brakes

I was talking with the instructor (Porsche guy) at the drivers dinner after the event. He said pretty much the same thing. He said if I want the pretty parts for car shows then I should purchase an extra set of rotors (like what you described) and brake pads just for track days.
I think that's what I'll do. Swapping rotors and pads takes 15 minutes and forces me to make sure they're ready for the event.
I'm also considering a six point cage with removable door bars just for a little extra protection. I don't want to hack the interior up though. It's not a true race car as I still like to cruise with it.  That will be the next project. 

[FC3S Murray]

. We have a season up here in the great midwest called Winter and they use salt on the roads. 

 
We have four seasons in Montana:  Spinter, Summer, snowFALL & Winter

[dtsan]

Good ole southeast Texas has all four seasons in one week. No salt though!

[bikedad]

The Ronin 8.8 swap is in. Haven't had a chance to drive it yet. Too much salt on the roads and my engine is winterized. (I release all the valve spring tension in Winter because I'm running solid lifters and the car doesn't get started for a few months)
My carrier is from a 2005 Ford Explorer. I ordered the Ford Racing Track Lok LSD. Ford Racing 3.73 Hobb grind gears. All bearings and seals have been replaced. A local speedshop Kilpatrick Engine & Transmission rebuilt the diff for me. They also welded the cradle mount. Axle inners were from the Explorer, shafts are Ronin and outers are GKN.
I went with the 1310 flange and a one piece slip yoke on the driveshaft.
A local company with 3 locations in Wisconsin and Illinois, Machine Service, built my driveshaft for me.

































Dat asss!! 
 

[digitalsolo]

Looks great!

[largeorangefont]

Excellent! You are going to love it.

[JapCrap]

Pure sex! Did you sell your other set up?

[bikedad]

Excellent! You are going to love it.

Thanks for all your help Ash. I'm excited to get it rolling. Unfortunately it just started snowing again.