My story:I purchased the car already built back in November 2008.
1986 FC from a member on the other forum "Old Skool Fool"
It needed quite a bit of work to really make it road worthy. I started with just getting it running correctly and somewhat reliably.
That involved some rewiring, carb replacement, drive shaft balancing, interior work, suspension component replacements and the list goes on.
With the assistance and guidance of Ray and Jorden(Gadzooks) I was able to make it to SNS09 (sort of)
Road trips are an exciting adventure sometimes.
I drove the car all summer while learning replacing and repairing various parts. Most parts acquired through members in this forum.
Well, after the last car show I attended with it I pulled it into the garage and decided to redo most of what was done.
Engine:I'm using the original rotating assembly but replaced Heads, Cam, Carb and Intake
-1979 SBC 350 bored .30 over to 355
-Vortec Iron heads. Pocket ported, polished, SS 2.02 intake valves 1.60 exhaust valves and seats, Comp cams dual springs with Comp Cams roller rockers, screw in studs
-Edelbrock RPM Air Gap for Vortec intake
-Edelbrock Thunder Series 650 Carb
-Comp Cams Solid lifters
-Comp Cams Cam CS XS290S-10
Intake Lift= .540 Exhuast Lift=.558
Duration @ .015 Intake=290 Exhaust=298
Duration @ .050 Intake=252 Exhaust=260
LSA=110.0
-March Performance Serpentine Pulley system for SBC High Flow Short Water Pump
-ProForm Die Cast Aluminum Valve Covers for Vortec Center Bolt heads
-Skip White Billet Alternator mount for short water pump
-FluiDampr Street Series damper
Trans:-T5 World Class (T5 14 spline 1" shaft) Edit: 1/9/2011 It is a WC after all
-Zoom conversion clutch/pressure plate assy.
-Custom DS by machineservice.com right here in Waukesha
-Pro-5.0 T5 shifter
I was originally just going to replace the top end but decided to go full bore into this.
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I received the fully built heads from Kilpatrick Engines and Transmissions and started to get it together
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Had a free night to start putting the motor in early December . My space heater warmed the garage to 40 deg F.
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Towards the end of December I finally got a chance to start hooking things up. (I lead a busy life)
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I realized my old long water pump was going to be a problem with the new radiator setup I wanted to put in so I decided to go with the short High Flow and had to find the correct billet parts for the serpentine system I wanted.
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Finally got it all wired, connected, tightened, retrofitted, fabricated, etc....
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Here it is running:
Suspension:-S5 Control Arms with Energy Suspension bushings
-Eibach springs
-KYB shocks
-Manual steering rack conversion from PS
I purchased the lower S5 control arms from a member on the other forum as well as the manual steering rack. I had a PS rack but not hooked up. I'm strong enough to drive it but after having drove Ray's car I decided I wanted to put in a manual rack. The nice thing about my car is the steering wheel is smaller than a typical manual steering car. It drives very easy now.
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Diff:-S4 TII clutch pack LSD with TII shafts
-Welded diff mount by Ray
-Pinion snubber
With the engine as it is I don't think the NA diff is going to hold up.
Things were going OK on the removal process until I got to the DTSS bushings. They've been in for 23 years so they had become one with the cradle. It took a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a 3 foot aluminum pipe extension to bust them loose even after soaking with PB Blaster for 2 days. I couldn't even get the bolts out of the sleeves they were so rusted. (I hope Fastenal has the bolts to replace them)
The rotors had seized to the hubs so I had to use a hand sledge to break them loose after soaking with PB Blaster. (I think I might buy stock in the stuff:laugh:) While busting them loose I separated the wheel bearing from the race. :eek4: Oh well I guess I'll have to replace wheel bearings now. I hope I won't have to do this process again for sometime. I felt like I'd been lifting weights for 2 days.
Well, got the new bearings pressed in as well as the DTSS Eliminators. Cleaned the carriers with some heavy duty degreaser. They turned out pretty nice.
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The last time the NA diff was replaced Jordan Jerabek (Gadzooks) gave me a hand. (actually did most of the work) It took about 3 hours to remove the old and put in the replacement.
This time doing it myself it's taking a lot more time. Pretty much because I'm wire brushing, degreasing and painting everything (to a point)
I will recommend if doing something like this to make sure you have a descent impact wrench. My air powered was too cheap and doesn't work well. I bought one from a local farm supply store that works great. It was $25. It's a corded one but doesn't seem to lose power on the really hard stuff.
Also multiple hydraulic jacks are a necessity if you don't have a lift.
PB Blaster is your friend.
All things considered this is not a very hard process in itself but due to everything being 24 years old is what adds to the complications.
Another member on this site has helped me with this car as well. Ray Platek knows a lot about these different differentials. He did a process on my pinion mount called boxing. Pretty much means he welded it solid. That should help with pinion movement on hard launches. He also milled and drilled my differential pinion flange to be able to use my NA driveshaft flange. If I ever have to go back to the NA diff it's just a matter of swapping the diff and not all the supporting parts like drive shaft etc.
I have a pinion snubber to install as well. It will prevent the front of the pinion from moving which leads to excessive wheel hop. I purchased it on line from Autozone for I think $10.
Dorman "Help" product "Control Arm Bumper" #31052
I know this works because he did the same process with his car and he has over 30,000 miles on his build with 1/4 mile times in the 11's. (He doesn't trailer his car and it's been across the US a few times)
Pics:
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Trusty Rusty
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My S4 TII replacement (the good one) with Delrin mounts
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Boxed Pinion and Pinion Flange milled and redrilled by Ray
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Cleaned and repainted
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Old parts going to storage
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I'll say this, I don't need to do any weight lifting from doing this. My abs were getting tight (LOL) Even with the jacks in place there still a lot of grunt work when you do this by yourself.
Installed the pinion snubber.
I found this indentation just above the pinion from underneath the car. Looked like it might have been stamped for a snubber from the factory.:dunno:
Drilled through and found where it came through the floor board between the rear bins. I put the snubber in and it wasn't long enough:mad:. I realized there was a subfloor right where it came through. Took the Dremel and cut a notch to bolt it.
I wanted some extra beef where the snubber mounted because the metal is thin and might fatigue fast so I put a very large washer between the snubber and floor board.
Bolted it in place with a nylock nut.
Once that was in place I proceeded to bolt the TII Diff in place. I raised everything into place and doing so it preloaded the snubber.
So, with the boxed pinion mount, snubber and Delrin diff pads I think it should be pretty tight. I think there might be more transference of noise and suspension activity but I expected that from reading what others have done.
Between Bins
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Dremel cut out
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Snubber
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Indentation just above pinion
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Large washer on snubber and Nylock nut
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Bolted inside
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Preload
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Waiting for the next step
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Finished replacing the TII diff.
Installed the Hub Carriers. Had to smooth the pocket where the old DTSS's used to sit with a Dremel. When removing the old ones the pocket where the sleeve sits got a little buggered up. A very small lip occurred which kept the carrier bolts from lining up. Wasn't a big deal but if I hadn't looked from underneath I would have thought the DTSS Eliminators didn't fit.
Once the carriers were in place then it was pretty easy going getting the TII shafts bolted in place. I didn't have someone to help for torquing the shaft bolts and the axle nuts. Clamped a soft jaw vise grip to the rotor and the hub carrier kept it from turning. Worked great.
All the nuts and bolts were wire brushed and either anti seized or I used PB Blaster to coat them. I read the instructions on the can. I didn't know it was used to prevent dissimilar metal from binding also. (Who reads labels?)
Bolted the drive shaft in place and dropped it off the stands. Now I have to wait for a non rainy day to take it out for a test drive.
I have sway bar end links on order but they won't be hear for about another week. Those should take 5 minutes to replace. I already busted them loose and re-tightened for easy removal later.
Hub Carrier showing DTSS Eliminator
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Anti Seize to prevent the rotor from rust welding
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Everything all buttoned up and my heavy duty bubble wrap to keep warm on the cold floor (Really works)
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Aww Crap! I forgot to wire brush and paint the hard lines. (I'll do that when the end links come in)
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I would rather have the aluminum showing but couldn't get all the "Hugger Orange" paint off.
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Edit: 10-22-2010Shortly after having finished the rebuild I replaced the radiator with a larger Griffin 26x21 aluminum racing radiator from Summit.
I installed a temp sensor controlled 2 speed Taurus fan (from a local junkyard $40) and a Moroso intake manifold filler neck. (which is mounted higher than the top of the radiator to get air out of the system)
The original 21"x19" Aluminum radiator with a 16" SPAL just couldn't keep up.
Before I upgraded the cooling system everytime I would take the car for a drive I was always concerned about getting into a situation where the car might overheat. Example: stuck in traffic, driving behind a vehicle blocking air flow into the radiator on the highway. (yes it was affected by driving behind cars) etc. Just wasn't pleasant.
It always was hovering at the 220 deg F mark.
After replacing everything I've driven it for 200 miles straight and it's maintained between 180 - 195 Deg F constantly. (180 deg sensor kicks on low speed and then steps up to high speed at 195 deg)
3 Beuler 60 amp relays with a 50 amp fuse for low speed and 75 amp fuse for high speed. (I barely see any fluctuation when the fans turn on with my 105 amp alternator)
I bought the fan control electronics from here....
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Moroso Intake manifold filler neck.
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Here's a little exhaust video:
Welding the Pinion BraceDue to the extra torque of the motor the stock pinion mount/brace on the cradle just isn't strong enough to handle the job
So, Ray and I welded a dynamic pinion brace to the cradle. This reduces wheel hop and keeps the tires planted on launch.
There's just enough movement to reduce any major driveline noise.
This modification reduced my 60ft time. I no longer worry about slamming the pinion into the floorboard any longer (Even with the snubber)
(Here's the actual thread.
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=3659.0 )
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07APR11
Installed the S5 tail lights from Antirotor. They really add to the look of the car.
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02DEC11 Just a couple of video updates of the car with the fresh 383 Stroker motor.
Here's the reason for the season in this thread:
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=6304.0On the dyno:At GLD with Ray behind the wheel:I'll be posting more here in the near future.
