( May as well migrate this over to the new forum .)
First some useful stuff :
nearly anything 5.0 ford can be found here :
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Wiring diagrams
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gifVacuum diagrams
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88Stang5.0Vacuum.gifmain harness diagram :
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangMainHarness.gifThis is for a 1st gen rx-7 and an '88-'93 Mustang harness (mas air flow
meter), although I think any A9L computer will be close or the same.
1. get 12V, always hot , to the yellow wire that goes to the eec relay.
This yellow wire goes through the wiring harness and comes out near the
remote starter relay. This is always hot so just wire it to the pigtail wire
that comes off the + battery terminal ( put a fuse or fusible link in
series ).
2. get switched 12v to the eec relay .
The red/light green wire that goes to the ignition should be spliced into
the heavy black/white wire that went to the Mazda coils . There are 2 of
these black/white wires , they are both the same.
That will serve both functions of getting switched 12v to the ignition and
the eec relay.
3. connect 12v, always hot, to the stock Mazda fusible link just the way it
was from Mazda. The fuel pump will now work as well, although the wires may
have to upgraded to a slightly heavier gauge . The fuel pump is not being
controlled by
the ford ecu so you will get code 87. If you need to get it past smog, wire
the fuel pump as follows:
relay primary one side to 12v
the other side to pin 4 of the ecu lb/o colored wire.
secondary, perm side to 12v
switched relay side to the inertia switch, then the + fuel pump.
connect pin 19wire (dark green/yellow to the + side of the fuel pump.
4. Pin 40 and 60 go through the wiring harness and connect through a
connector to the body (anywhere ) for ground, and pin 20 a black wire, comes
off the ecu near the eec relay with a ring lug connector , this needs to be
grounded to the body .
5. The o2 sensors, need switched 12 v .
I cut the grey/yellow wire in the blue 8 pin connector next to the computer
and pulled it back out of the harness ( into the engine compartment ) .
I ran it through the other side of the harness , past where the wires "y"
off to the injectors, added a few feet ,and tied it into the switched 12v
from the black/white Mazda wires.
6. Ground pins 49, (orange ) and 6 ( pk/o.
7. to hook up the check engine light ( needed for calif smog ) connect both
pk/lg wires from c213 to one side of a 12v lamp and switched 12v to the
other.
8. The check engine light will stay on due to the neutral/clutch switch (
code 67), so ground pin 30 (light blue w/ yellow stripe) to remove that code
9. to wire the alt, the b/o wires go through a 14 g fusible link to batt +
the "a" ( y/w) also goes to batt through an 18 g fusiblelink and the
"i"( y/w ) goes to the w/b from the 7 that used to go to the rx-7 alt "t "
shaped connector ( same as the 7 ) off the choke/check relay .
You also need to jumper the "s" to the "s", between the 2 connectors.
.
