Project Sleep-R - Bedlined 79 RX7 Turbo 5.3 fun

[Burntz]

Finishing up some welding on the hot side



Getting everything on for a final test fit and to try starting it. Everything is very tight. Enough so that it can be quite frustrating. But it fits and it looks tits, so fuck it.



I have a threaded IAT sensor from DIY Autotune, some good DEI Titanium exhaust wrap, and a small green spring (5psi) for the WG on the way. Discovered that my older V44 I bought from a guy has a teeny tiny rip in the diaphragm and only came with a 14psi spring :pissed:. Ill eventually just be upgrading to the newer MVR-44

[Burntz]

Started dicking with some trouble shooting.

We forgot to put the o-ring in the thermostat housing 

Downpipe and WG pipe weren't aligned just right. Ended up stripping the threads on the 3" vband clamp before we got both pipes to seat. What did we do? Cut off the threaded part of the clamp and welded on another threaded part. Metric->standard conversion lolz.

Waiting on the IAT sensor. None of my histograms were working. Forgot to delete the MAP and re-add the 2 bar map while connected and in the scanner. Derp.

Now heres a couple questions... going to hardwire my Wideband in through the AC Pressure switch. This is pin 11 on the Red connector right? AC High Pressure Switch? Dark blue wire? Because their is a low pressure switch too and none of the guides specify lol.

[Burntz]

Hotside and Downpipe are wrapped
Front end is back together
Spent all fucking day fucking with LM Programmer and HP Tuners, trying to get my 2nd analog output for my wideband to not only read correctly, but show up and log in HP Tuners. I am going through the AC switch port... but I dont think I'm using the right Pin. I get voltage to the wire with a voltmeter but it isn't logging in HP Tuners. Iv tried a couple different pins...frustrating.

My WG spring should be here tomorrow, hopefully my IAT too. If I can get my wideband to log, I can go out and get boosting a little. Then to redo the rear end suspension a little and it should be good to go until I can add my 2nd fuel pump and get it dyno tuned.

[Burntz]

5psi wastegate spring in
4 corner AN4 steam line kit installed.

I finally figured out my wideband situation thanks to a lot of help from Geo on the board here and some internet searching.

Hooking up a LC-1 (and LM-1 too I believe) to the AC Pressure Sensor Wire 99-02 Chevy 5.3

1st: the wire I had must have broke at the pin. It would ran 5 volts at the pin key on before, but then i checked again and it wasn't. So I put a new wire in. Make sure you are getting 5.01v at the Pin of the ECU with the key on (because it defaults to lean)
2nd: To use the AC pressure sensor on a 99-02 truck ECM to log your wideband you must use Pin 14 on the Red Connector... which doesn't exist in pinouts for it. But it is on later trucks and f-body ECM's. We figured out that the ECM will still read and log the voltage for that sensor on that unused pin. Its a red/black wire stock.
3rd: Make sure you have your A/C settings enabled in your HP Tuners. System -> AC -> analog cycling. I enabled my SES/DTC's as well just in case.
4th: Make sure you have added the AC Pressure Sensor PID first, and your 2 customs PID's. Since I am using the full range of 7.35-22.4 mine look like this.
 Formula  VOLTS / (VOLTAGE RANGE/DEVICE RANGE) + (MINIMUM VALUE OF DEVICE READING) = AFR
 - Air Fuel Ratio: ([PID.7101]/.3322)+7.35     -   I  believe there is no sensor, and the output is AFR
 - Air Fuel Percentage Error: 100*((([PID.7101]/.3322)+7.35)-[SENS.121])/[SENS.121]   - no sensor, output is %.

5th: In LM Programmer make sure analog output #2 is set 0-5v. I have my AFR defined at 7.35-22.40 but I will be changing it to 10-18 because apparently it gives better resolution. Also in advanced settings make sure it is reading at a 1/6th rate. Anything faster is too fast from what I've been told.

And then it should log if everything is wired proper lol

[Burntz]

I knew I had some rust going on with my control arm mounts, but once we got the rear wheels off it was apparent that it had gotten much worse. The heim joints are nice but they allow the control arms to flex. Being as the top ones are angled inward and that the car has a panhard bar, the suspension binds up when 1 side moves up or down and the other doesnt, and it pushes on the mounting points.




So we cut out the rust, welded some shit, and created a 1/8" thick metal plate to weld over and tie into the lower control arm mount as well. This should hold the car over until we get a chance to reweld the spring perches for some 2" 120lb springs and move the top control arm mounts in to make it a parallel 4 link setup




Re did and re routed my oil drain hose
Putting in the new radiator tomorrow.

Hopefully that should tidy up the last of the small issues. Now just back to learning tuning and trying to get this thing into a little bit of boost

[Burntz]

so any hp tuners guys wanna help me out? I have a guy on the board helping me, but I can't seem to get this damn thing to idle around stoich. Its constantly around 11.5 afr and I cant get it to idle any leaner.

[digitalsolo]

Injector settings off?

[Burntz]

thats what I keep thinking, but I got my hands on the banish info, plugged it all in and plugged in the IFR based on the calculator. Im starting to wonder if the short pulse adder is off? I just copy pasted it over..

[Burntz]

so a guy on the hptuners boards pointed out that my offset tables need to be constant from 0kpa through. derp. Changed that and it'll start up kinda lean now, smooth out into stoich, and then still drag down to about 12.5afr. Soooo frustrating.

here is a copy of my current tune.

[rk970]

Now that you got the frame re-enforced the rod end links will probably pull the brackets of the axle. 
 

[Burntz]

That is what I am guessing too. I already halfway ripped one off, im sure the others will follow. The goal is to reinforce them before I break them, but we may relocate the top ones to make the setup parallel.

I made a little headway with the tune. I dropped my minimum pulsewidth and default pulsewidth to .593 and I can keep the car idleing about 13.5 AFR now. I have vacuum leaks at the injectors but got my new rails in today, so going to soak the seals in some oil and get those on and hope that cures the vacuum leak there. Then boost leak test, then continue tuning if all goes well.

It'll be a miracle if I get to drive this thing in some boost before snow flies. Still need to add a 2nd fuel pump, filters, and redo some fuel lines before getting tuned at 14psi.

[rk970]

If you do a parallel 4 link the links have to be all the same length..
Un bolt one of the watts links and see if you can push the car side to side.. it will really illustrate how much suspension bind your set up has now.. If you still have the stock upper links I would put them in.   

[Burntz]

The watts link is long gone. It has a panhard bar in it.

Why would all the controls arms NEED to be the same length?

[Burntz]

New o rings fixed injectors vacuum leaks. I dont see or hear any others.

Still cant make any headway with this tune. Driving me fucking nuts.

[scuter83]

You can't get it to idle at stoich when in closed loop control?  Or you have it running open loop?