Mississippi FD - 383CI Forged LS1 Stroker Build

[perf0rmance]

glad to see it back

ah, 3sgte.... that reminds me of my first car.... a white 94 mr2


yeah, your paint looks crazy. I believe what your painter said about the paint underneath contracting/expanding differently from the paint on top. It looks like what a dinner plate would look like if you dropped it and it cracked.

[halfspec]

Getting some parts together to send out to 65imp for powdercoating 

Lane

[MPbdy]

What color you doing?

I'm digging the door handles and wipers.  My wipers especially aren't too nice to look at.

[halfspec]

Thanks Daniel

It's all going to be low gloss black. Here's a list of parts with their gloss requirements:

20% Gloss
Door Handles
Door Handle Bezels
Windshield Wipers

5% Gloss
Surge Tank
Intake Pipe
Coil Covers
Radiator Cover
Radiator Cover tabs (2)
Fuse Box Bracket
Fuse Box Bracket Support Rod (center of picture).

Lane

[halfspec]

Made a little progress this weekend.

First I took out my dash to deal with my 'leaky' heater core. Took it apart and checked to make sure it was really the problem.



If this b!tch was going back in my car she'd have to hold it together underwater.



Turns out she could. Held ~ 45psi for over 3 hrs while I worked on other things. I pumped it up, sealed it, then put it underwater the whole time with an in-line modified compression gauge (removed schrader valve) to monitor it. I guess my leaks must have come from around the inlet and outlet pipes. Doh!

I also returned my optima battery this weekend. After spending 7 months in the shop, and deep cycling despite me telling the guys to keep it on its trickle charger, I couldn't get it to hold charge even with the parallel charger + good battery trick. Thankfully I bought it locally and O'Reillys didn't give me any trouble.

While I had my battery out I decided to go ahead any install the mil spec bulkhead connector I'd bought to make my wideband sensor install / uninstall easier for open air calibrations:







I also went ahead and coated the top of my battery holder with Plasti Dip because I just about sh!t a brick every time I work around it because I'm afraid the terminal clamps may accidentally touch the plate and short out. The plasti dip is rougher than I'd like, but it's a good insulator and supposedly it peels off if I end up not liking it:



Also started installing my AAC aftermarket carpet. It's been in my attic for over a year but it still makes my car smell brand new + It's SOFT! I can't tell you how many cuts and deep punctures I've got from working inside the freakin cage of a cabin with so much exposed / sharp metal edges. I'm so glad to have a little padding again





This was my method for marking my holes to be cut with chalk:



Here's the install at ~ 80 % complete. I'd cut all the holes at this point and was installing padding. I still haven't trimmed the perimeter though:




Sorry. I didn't get any more shots, but they'll be coming when I finish.

After I got the carpet mostly in I started second guessing some of my electronics since getting the carpet in makes changes significantly harder, so I started verifying my alarm setup. Up till this point I haven't worked on my door locks because my doors have been disconnected. Well I got them hooked up and was astonished to find that the stock door lock system only used a solenoid in the passenger side door I even missed it with the diagram shouting in my face the whole time. Oh well, I've got a solenoid on order and I'll get it fixed up, but it's a pita to have to work on the alarm wiring at this stage.

Lane

[rajeevx7]

You will need one actuator to hook up to the driver's side door. In the upper left corner of the door you can splice into 12v constant. Then it needs two wires run through the harness and door plug to the brain.
 
Check this.. http://www.caraudio-caralarms.com/dei-528t.html . Buy one asap. I am using it to turn on my parking lamps when I disarm the car. Too cool and brings the FD a bit closer to current standard equipment. It's been awhile (since the last time you helped me with wiring) but I think I also used this circuit to time my dome light.

[halfspec]

Right. When I said solenoid, I meant actuator.

That's a pretty cool add on module, although I think I'll be happy if I can just get my door locks working and I'll leave all the fancies to my bmw

I've got an actuator and a pulse generator on the way to me:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009SWLE6/ref=pe_175190_21431760_C1_cs_sce_dp_2
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009SUEW2/ref=pe_175190_21431760_C1_cs_sce_dp_1

I'm hoping to install it like this:


or this


I actually prefer the second method better as I've seen a better install pic in that location (just can't seem to find it) and I think they'll be more room there. I've ordered a set of speaker adapters that I hope will give me even more clearance:

http://car-speaker-adapters.com/items.php?id=SAK068

I should be able to re-purpose existing wiring to wire the actuator. Specifically, the Bose speaker's shield and power wires

The pulse generator isn't very well documented, but I'm hoping it can take a two wire switched input and change it to lock / unlock pulses.  The reason I need it is because the stock driver's switch is a hard switch that provides a ground to the lock wire and an open to the unlock wire when locked, and an open to the lock wire and ground to the unlock wire when unlocked. The stock system works with hard switches to ground and seems to work ok with pulses from my alarm (for the passenger door). The problem is that when the switch is in either position it hold ground on that position. I.E., when it's in the lock position, the lock wire is stuck at ground. So when I hit lock on my alarm, and it sends a grd pulse it does nothing and the door lock controller doesn't even try to switch states because the lock wire is already ground. I'm hoping that the pulse generator can make it so I can make a network to the lock controller where either the alarm or the switch can send lock and unlock signals without bothering each other. If I can't get the stock lock controller to play nice I'll just use two relays:

http://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#arp

Lane

[rajeevx7]

Two relays is what I am using and everything works. The short pulse from my alarm brain is not nearly long enough to trigger the factory switch.
 
Can't say enough about that Dei pulse timer though. Really cool gadget for very little extra work and money! That second pic seems impossible with my Bose boxes. The window switch and mirror switch dip right into that area.
 
Good luck, car looks great

[halfspec]

Installed my MGW Shifter Thermal Shifter Panel by mattster03 this morning in-between wiring for my driver's side actuator.




Looks good. I'm happy

Lane

[halfspec]

Whatwhat?

[rajeevx7]

Very cool. I would LOVE to create my own ac lines and avoid the $400 fee the ready made kit goes for.
Besides having all the hardware installed without piping connecting them, is this everything you need? Which connector takes the place of the compressor manifold...or do they couple onto those lines?
 
THANKS 

[osburn383]

Nice build.

I was just about to try and tackle my own ac in the coming weeks.
Getting way to hot for a black car.

Where did you source your parts?
I was looking into docs at the moment.

[halfspec]

Thanks for the complements guys.

I'm sure a lot of your questions will be answered when I post pics of the completed lines.

As far as posting source info, I'm on the fence with that. I've invested a lot of time and therefore money in putting this list of parts together and negotiating the fabrication of one custom fitting. I'm totally an open-source full disclosure kinda guy, but I'm considering manufacturing lines that include a dryer, and maybe GM pressure switch for ~ $350 which would undercut most options out there by $100.

I'll keep y'all posted.

[r71]

Whatwhat?

Please do a detailed write up on this.

[r71]

Sold!

Thanks for the complements guys.

I'm sure a lot of your questions will be answered when I post pics of the completed lines.

As far as posting source info, I'm on the fence with that. I've invested a lot of time and therefore money in putting this list of parts together and negotiating the fabrication of one custom fitting. I'm totally an open-source full disclosure kinda guy, but I'm considering manufacturing lines that include a dryer, and maybe GM pressure switch for ~ $350 which would undercut most options out there by $100.

I'll keep y'all posted.