FC Explorer 8.8 Diff Kit

[Drsnoopy]

I appreciate your help and ill take your word for it and not finish the welds yet.

I guess i just dont see the variance but i guess when talking in degrees minimal changes can cause the pinion angle to change. Very unfortunate i can't make any progress and cross this off my lost while the drivetrain is out.

[Drsnoopy]

Yes you can use an adjustable sublink, but I would set it to the stock length for mockup, again because you don't know what adjustments you are going to have to make down the line. Plus this will also affect the rear camber, and adjusting that later could cause other new problems as it twists the subframe.

The camberlink is currently set to the adjustment i was running last year to get the camber within spec. I guess i will set it to stock length, get the diff installed, set pinion angle and than when i get a alignment the sublink is going to throw off my pinion angle...lol i really need to get a grasp on this and try and figure out what im missing.

[eage8]

That's why that's a terrible way to adjust camber   it does the same thing to the stock diff...

ronin links are great

http://www.roninspeedworks.net/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=91

[largeorangefont]

Yes you can use an adjustable sublink, but I would set it to the stock length for mockup, again because you don't know what adjustments you are going to have to make down the line. Plus this will also affect the rear camber, and adjusting that later could cause other new problems as it twists the subframe.

The camberlink is currently set to the adjustment i was running last year to get the camber within spec. I guess i will set it to stock length, get the diff installed, set pinion angle and than when i get a alignment the sublink is going to throw off my pinion angle...lol i really need to get a grasp on this and try and figure out what im missing.

Yea, do not go welding it in, you are going to screw yourself. Buy Ronin camber links and run the sublink close to or at the stock length.

[bikedad]

Yes you can use an adjustable sublink, but I would set it to the stock length for mockup, again because you don't know what adjustments you are going to have to make down the line. Plus this will also affect the rear camber, and adjusting that later could cause other new problems as it twists the subframe.

The camberlink is currently set to the adjustment i was running last year to get the camber within spec. I guess i will set it to stock length, get the diff installed, set pinion angle and than when i get a alignment the sublink is going to throw off my pinion angle...lol i really need to get a grasp on this and try and figure out what im missing.

Yea, do not go welding it in, you are going to screw yourself. Buy Ronin camber links and run the sublink close to or at the stock length.

^^^ What he said.

You definitely do not want to weld anything until you get your motor and trans in. Install everything and tighten down. Connect driveshaft and measure away.
Get your angles verified then tack it. (I actually used vise grips to hold things in place as I don't trust my welding) I then removed the subframe and had my buddy weld it up.
My car was smooth as silk.

[Drsnoopy]

Guess i shouldve went with ronins setup before investing in PBM camber links and adjustable sub link. Time to rethink my setup. Appreicate all the help fellas!

[largeorangefont]

PBM dogbones and an adjustable sublink are ok. You didn’t say that before. You are just not going to get much less adjustment out of the sublink after you add the Ronin front mount.

[Drsnoopy]

PBM dogbones and an adjustable sublink are ok. You didn’t say that before. You are just not going to get much less adjustment out of the sublink after you add the Ronin front mount.

Before reading this i bit the bullet on the "stage 2" ronin camber links..i hope they are actually a different length then the PBM dogbones or else that was a complete waste of money. So from what im understanding now, set adjustable sublink to stock length. Leave the PBM dogbones installed. Set pinon angle and weld in. At that point i can use the sublink to adjust camber i just wont have as much adjustability as i did with stock diff?

[largeorangefont]

It depends on how low you have the car. Ronin makes one link that is shorter than the PBM links. There is also enough slop in the bolt holes to get a little fine camber adjustment. If you can get away without using the sublink at all and just getting the correct length camber links, That is what you want.

[Tomo]

I'm collecting up all the parts needed to do this swap, and I'm soon to buy the Ronin portions ( ).

Just a few questions. I've already got an Explorer diff and some explorer axles, with 626 Turbo axles on the way so I can try to sell all my T2 stuff together.

I just picked up the Timken wheel bearings and the seals people sourced out as working with the slightly different 626 parts. The Diff stub axle seals that are in the Ford FSB as being a potential problem. Seems no one makes them anymore? Which seems plenty weird. Couldn't find a source for those, anyone do the work to replace them? Can you do it without completely removing the internals?

The front pinion flange. The explorer one is not recommended because its so large as to need clearance with the subframe, is this correct? I saw links to the 'small' Mustang 8.8 flange. Did anyone take this job up themselves (apologies if so, the pictures are now all borked thanks to photobucket). If so I guess I'll source and hope the job isn't a major pain. I don't think there's anything else I can do there 'easily' while I've got the flange off. (Pinion seal for example).

I'm currently set to use solid mounts for the diff and subframe. I already have the MMR diff mounts (grabbed them right before he disappeared), and PBM Subframe. I know this isn't the most recommended path. But given they are parts I already have, I couldn't imagine parting with $$ to get the Mazda Comp bushings.

Question is, (Bowtie7..) what is the thickness of the extra spacer needed? I can probably get something hacked together that will work, I have the MMR front control arm UHWM bushings I *could* chop up. Just have no idea what I'm aiming for.

Uh...I think that's it for now? I'm sure this will all take longer than I'd *really* like. But I've started on this adventure.

[bikedad]

I'm collecting up all the parts needed to do this swap, and I'm soon to buy the Ronin portions ( ).

Just a few questions. I've already got an Explorer diff and some explorer axles, with 626 Turbo axles on the way so I can try to sell all my T2 stuff together.

I just picked up the Timken wheel bearings and the seals people sourced out as working with the slightly different 626 parts. The Diff stub axle seals that are in the Ford FSB as being a potential problem. Seems no one makes them anymore? Which seems plenty weird. Couldn't find a source for those, anyone do the work to replace them? Can you do it without completely removing the internals?

The front pinion flange. The explorer one is not recommended because its so large as to need clearance with the subframe, is this correct? I saw links to the 'small' Mustang 8.8 flange. Did anyone take this job up themselves (apologies if so, the pictures are now all borked thanks to photobucket). If so I guess I'll source and hope the job isn't a major pain. I don't think there's anything else I can do there 'easily' while I've got the flange off. (Pinion seal for example).

I'm currently set to use solid mounts for the diff and subframe. I already have the MMR diff mounts (grabbed them right before he disappeared), and PBM Subframe. I know this isn't the most recommended path. But given they are parts I already have, I couldn't imagine parting with $$ to get the Mazda Comp bushings.

Question is, (Bowtie7..) what is the thickness of the extra spacer needed? I can probably get something hacked together that will work, I have the MMR front control arm UHWM bushings I *could* chop up. Just have no idea what I'm aiming for.

Uh...I think that's it for now? I'm sure this will all take longer than I'd *really* like. But I've started on this adventure.

Here's a post from my Ronin swap. One difference is I used GKN outers (which are probably not available any longer)
Also, I had to shorten my driveshaft about an inch from what shows in the pictures. (was bottoming out on big bumps)

Hope this helps...

The Ronin 8.8 swap is in. Haven't had a chance to drive it yet. Too much salt on the roads and my engine is winterized. (I release all the valve spring tension in Winter because I'm running solid lifters and the car doesn't get started for a few months)
My carrier is from a 2005 Ford Explorer. I ordered the Ford Racing Track Lok LSD. Ford Racing 3.73 Hobb grind gears. All bearings and seals have been replaced. A local speedshop Kilpatrick Engine & Transmission rebuilt the diff for me. They also welded the cradle mount. Axle inners were from the Explorer, shafts are Ronin and outers are GKN.
I went with the 1310 flange and a one piece slip yoke on the driveshaft.
A local company with 3 locations in Wisconsin and Illinois, Machine Service, built my driveshaft for me.

































Dat asss!! 
 

[Tomo]

Pictures certainly are worth 1000 words. Looks great.

That is a very clean looking differential even if it is painted.

Looks like you conducted a very clean swap. You had your diff rebuild guys put the Mustang 8.8 small flange on the front end while they were refreshing all the seals and bearings?

[bikedad]

Pictures certainly are worth 1000 words. Looks great.

That is a very clean looking differential even if it is painted.

Looks like you conducted a very clean swap. You had your diff rebuild guys put the Mustang 8.8 small flange on the front end while they were refreshing all the seals and bearings?

Yes. I believe it's part of setting the preload on the pinion. I just used the Carrier from the Explorer and had all Ford Racing LSD, Ring and Pinion and Rebuild kit put in.

You can go with the larger flange but you will have to modify your subframe. When you purchase the Ronin 8.8 kit they will give you a link to a PDF for instructions plus ideas for your install. In the PDF they cover the 1350 Flange subframe modification very well.
My car was 400 RWHP and the smaller flange was fine. Most of my action was track day events at Road America and a couple outings at Great Lakes Dragway.

[eage8]

There is a bunch of good info in the ronin instructions:

http://www.roninspeedworks.net/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=7

[DrKarrot]

So I picked up a used sub-frame and 8.8 and have been driving it for a couple of weeks. Finally got it out on the interstate and I've got a pretty nasty vibe around 2100 or more RPMS in 6th on my T56 (no speedo...). Its there in any other gear and gets worse with speed, so I checked my driveline angles and they're seemingly pretty screwy. Looking at about +4 degrees nose up at the pinion, and -2 at the slip yoke, relative to the driveshaft. I was able to get the pinion down to about +2 by pulling the washer between the diff and the front mount, and cranking the diff mounts into the body as much as possible, but now the pinion flange on the driveshaft is hitting the subframe, so I am pretty much back where I started.

Are these angles "close enough" and my vibe just due to a relatively skinny, heavy steel shaft/bad balance? I am using a different slip yoke than the shaft was originally balanced with. Or should I go through the trouble of trying to reverse the pinion-up yoke-down angles?