March 16, 2025, 02:30:39 PM

Author Topic: FC Explorer 8.8 Diff Kit  (Read 369192 times)

Offline frijolee

Re: FC Explorer 8.8 Diff Kit
« Reply #825 on: March 08, 2017, 01:39:53 PM »
MMR used to be my go to on subframe bushings, but they seem to be out of business (or at least not selling to the public).  Solid is fine for the subframe and there are a quite a few options on Ebay for those.  The only one's we typically do not recommned are the Powered by Max bushings since they raise the subframe and it screws up the pinion geometry.  You can run them but you need a spacer to put the subframe back were we intended.
LS2 stroker FC, Mandeville big brakes, widebody, etc
Build thread:  http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.0
www.roninspeedworks.com

LargeOrangeFont says: "Joel is right, and I love Joel. But his car sounds like the wrath of God."   ;)

Offline largeorangefont

Re: FC Explorer 8.8 Diff Kit
« Reply #826 on: March 08, 2017, 06:41:36 PM »
ii 'm looking for rear frame bushings not diff bushings


You need to pay close attention to detail when mocking up and assembling this kit with solid subframe bushings.  Loosely put the diff in the car first, then mount the subframe in the car, and torque it to spec. Do not install a sub link. Then mock up the diff and tack weld the front mount into place. You'll likely need an adjustable sub link, as the OE unit may not land in the right place anymore. I did it this way to make sure the subframe was mounted perfectly square in the car. FWIW i run the not recommended fully solid mount setup. It does require diff mount reaming and some extra attention to detail during setup. I also had some custom tapered spacers made to set the pinion angle on the front mount and lock the front mount down solid.

There are delrin FC subframe bushings on EBay for $78 or so.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/182410925635

« Last Edit: March 08, 2017, 06:59:21 PM by largeorangefont »
Quote from: cool
Sell it to spacevomit.  He'll finish it.

Offline racer#93

Re: FC Explorer 8.8 Diff Kit
« Reply #827 on: March 09, 2017, 07:16:00 PM »
I found some rear subframe bushings at the dealer 125 ea >:(  I went and got solid on ebay. :)

Offline Drsnoopy

Re: FC Explorer 8.8 Diff Kit
« Reply #828 on: December 06, 2017, 01:26:50 AM »
so ive read a lot of this thread and its been very helpful but unfortunately a lot of reference pictures are dead because of photobuket. im attempting the mockup tomorrow for the first time and a buddy is coming over to tack weld the mount in place. my main concern is pinon angle. is this something that i will know when its set right once i lift the subframe into place or are there measurements that i need to take in order to ensure its properly aligned? if measurements are involved, is there a procedure on how to do so? appreciate the help norotors family!

Offline Drsnoopy

Re: FC Explorer 8.8 Diff Kit
« Reply #829 on: December 06, 2017, 05:04:28 PM »
Today i noticed the ford rubber mount for the bottom of the front mount was not included with my kit. Is there a part number for that? Or are the three rubber washers sent suppose to take its place?

Offline largeorangefont

Re: FC Explorer 8.8 Diff Kit
« Reply #830 on: December 06, 2017, 11:45:18 PM »
The 3 rubber washers will take its place.

Your Explorer rear has the large “cobra” flange that you’ll likely need to remove that to mock up everything. You’ll want an angle finder and set the pinion angle equal and opposite to your engine/trans angle. If the engine is pointing down 1.5 degrees, you want the pinion shaft on the diff pointing up 1.5 degrees.
Quote from: cool
Sell it to spacevomit.  He'll finish it.

Offline Drsnoopy

Re: FC Explorer 8.8 Diff Kit
« Reply #831 on: December 07, 2017, 12:13:25 AM »
The 3 rubber washers will take its place.

Your Explorer rear has the large “cobra” flange that you’ll likely need to remove that to mock up everything. You’ll want an angle finder and set the pinion angle equal and opposite to your engine/trans angle. If the engine is pointing down 1.5 degrees, you want the pinion shaft on the diff pointing up 1.5 degrees.

Awesome...although thats terrible news for me since the drivetrain is out of the car. I guess this means completeing engine/trans assembly before the diff goes in. Was really hoping to make progress on the differential install while waiting on parts.

Offline Drsnoopy

Re: FC Explorer 8.8 Diff Kit
« Reply #832 on: December 07, 2017, 06:27:58 PM »
So i just want to clarify. Pinion angle is adjusted by adding removing washers correct? The weld in mounting point doesnt have any up/down adjustment so kind of where it lands, thats it? I just want to know if i could have everything welded and mounted in the car and just play around with pinion angle once the rest of the drive train is in. Also, i know in the instructions it says to grind weld in mount to achive fitment. Not sure how and if anything needs to be ground down in my case:



Offline largeorangefont

Re: FC Explorer 8.8 Diff Kit
« Reply #833 on: December 07, 2017, 07:52:23 PM »
If you want to do it without the drivetrain in the car just tack weld it in place in case you are wrong.

What I would do is mock up the rear subframe in the car with the diff, not just weld it in off the car.

Put the rear diff mount on the diff.
Mount the diff from the rear mount posts on the car loosely.
Mount the subframe and sub link.
Then begin positioning the front diff mount, check pinion angle and tack front mount in place from there.
Remove subframe and weld front mount.

If you are not in a position to do all of that, I wouldn’t bother as you’ll likely need to do rework later.
Quote from: cool
Sell it to spacevomit.  He'll finish it.

Offline Drsnoopy

Re: FC Explorer 8.8 Diff Kit
« Reply #834 on: December 07, 2017, 08:02:06 PM »
If you want to do it without the drivetrain in the car just tack weld it in place in case you are wrong.

What I would do is mock up the rear subframe in the car with the diff, not just weld it in off the car.

Put the rear diff mount on the diff.
Mount the diff from the rear mount posts on the car loosely.
Mount the subframe and sub link.
Then begin positioning the front diff mount, check pinion angle and tack front mount in place from there.
Remove subframe and weld front mount.

If you are not in a position to do all of that, I wouldn’t bother as you’ll likely need to do rework later.

Thats pretty much what i was planning on doing. The only thing is the "check pinion angle" part. Being that the drivetrain isnt in place im not sure what angle to look for giving the welder the go ahead to weld into place.

Offline eage8

Re: FC Explorer 8.8 Diff Kit
« Reply #835 on: December 07, 2017, 10:09:11 PM »
Worst case scenario you can also adjust pinion angle using a sub-frame adjustable camber link or by adjusting the spacing of the front mount...  it's not ideal, but it'll do in a pinch.
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Offline largeorangefont

Re: FC Explorer 8.8 Diff Kit
« Reply #836 on: December 07, 2017, 10:32:15 PM »
Worst case scenario you can also adjust pinion angle using a sub-frame adjustable camber link or by adjusting the spacing of the front mount...  it's not ideal, but it'll do in a pinch.


Correct. But if you run solid subframe bushings you’ll only be able to shim the subframe down, not use an adjustable sublink.

I used an aluminium bushing in place of the rubber washers to set the pinion angle, but I have solid bushings everywhere.
Quote from: cool
Sell it to spacevomit.  He'll finish it.

Offline Drsnoopy

Re: FC Explorer 8.8 Diff Kit
« Reply #837 on: December 07, 2017, 11:41:15 PM »
Worst case scenario you can also adjust pinion angle using a sub-frame adjustable camber link or by adjusting the spacing of the front mount...  it's not ideal, but it'll do in a pinch.

I am running a adjustable camber line (subframe link). Im running OEM bushings on the subframe and mazda comp bushings on the differential. I apologize for my confusion but im missing what the "correct" way of setting the pinon angle is. Like i stated before, the weld in mount location doesnt seem to have any up/down adjustablitily since it has the "slot" where it slides into the subframe. Before actually putting it next to where its eventually going to be welded, i was under the impression there was multiple postions on how it could be welded. Im sorry if im not making any sense, i just rather gather information and do it right the first time.

Offline Drsnoopy

Re: FC Explorer 8.8 Diff Kit
« Reply #838 on: December 07, 2017, 11:58:40 PM »
Maybe im wording it incorrectly, here was my game plan and let me know if im missing something:

1. Bolt differential in using rear two post mounts
2. Lift subframe, secure to chasis and attatch sub link (should i not be using a adjustable link?)
3. Using hardware attach weld in mount to front diff mount and mock up to subframe
4. Sand down area and tack weld front mount
5. Remove subframe and finish welding in front mount


I just want to make sure that where ever the mount "lands" will be the right location. I cant see how it will be wrong but im just getting confused with all the talk about measuring pinon angle prior to welding on the mount. My confusion comes in being that i dont see how it can be incorrectly pitched. Please help me clarify this and gain some confidence with this task.

Offline largeorangefont

Re: FC Explorer 8.8 Diff Kit
« Reply #839 on: December 08, 2017, 12:01:48 AM »
The front mount only goes on one way, but there is some variance in it. You are not going to be able to set your pinion angle until the engine is in the car. Like I said, I’d tack it into place at most if it were me, but if you want to go for it and finish weld it, have at it, you just have fewer options when you actually have to set the pinion angle if it needs adjustment.

Without the engine in, you don't know what your engine angle is going to be, and therefore what your pinion angle will need to be. This is pretty critical, because if it is too far off you can get vibration, driveline wear etc.

If you finish weld the front mount now, you'll still have some adjustment, but have fewer options to fix any issues.

Yes you can use an adjustable sublink, but I would set it to the stock length for mockup, again because you don't know what adjustments you are going to have to make down the line. Plus this will also affect the rear camber, and adjusting that later could cause other new problems as it twists the subframe.
« Last Edit: December 08, 2017, 12:11:01 AM by largeorangefont »
Quote from: cool
Sell it to spacevomit.  He'll finish it.