SuperSlow's slow FC build

[LSXREX]

Oops I though it was 2000.

[SuperSlow]

Went and drove the car again today and it looks like I have some issues to resolve.

First, boost is still not being controlled at all. Peak boost showed 25lbs with the new solenoid and larger wastegate spring. Going to go over my vacuum line routing and see if something isn't connected right

Second issue is overheating. At any kind of cruising speed the car stays at about 195 but when I am at a stop it starts to get hot pretty quickly even with the taurus fan running on high. Thinking my "100k mile" 1998 water pump might be to blame. Anyone else have any input?

Third issue is high rpm breakup. The tach goes on the fritz somewhere around 4.5-5k rpm and shortly after the car hits what seems like a rev limiter (except that is set at 7k). Starts back firing real bad at a certain rpm and won't rev passed. I really have no idea what is causing this but I am going to go ahead and replace the coils with a set that came with my 4.8. Rpm seems to show up fine in the logs but not at the tach. Tach gets it's signal from the coils so that's where I'll start.

Any help with any of these problems would be much appreciated. I'm dying to strap on the biased plys and make some hits on the street!

[1320king]

check cam sensor on your log wile your at it, also check grounds. Try 160* tstat and drill a 1/16th hole in it

EDIT: realized you have plenty of radiator ducting.

[SuperSlow]

Thanks king, I'll check both of those next time I work on the car.

It's hard to find a low temp thermostat for this stupid CSR housing I am running. Last time I checked no one made a 160 that would fit but I need to look again. It has a 185 right now.

[1320king]

try drilling a hole in it. Small at first 1/16. It has helped me in the past. 

[freeskier7791]

Have you tried bleeding the cooling system? Could have a bad air bubble giving you issues, also do you have a trace of the cam and crank sensor and timing compared to rpm?

[SuperSlow]

Yea there is a good chance that I have an air bubble, my overflow tank sits pretty low.

And I'll have to check the logs for cam and crank signal. Thanks for the advice guys.

[1320king]

easiest way to combat that is just jack the front end up and refill / burp

[SuperSlow]

Alright schools out so I am back at it.

Threw in a new crank sensor the other day and went for a small drive only to be disappointed. The car is running like shit, tach is way more out of whack  then ever before and it has a very bad shake at cruise in 6th gear than ever before. Going to throw in a new cam sensor tomorrow then take a quick log to send off to the tuner.

I'm switching the low side wastegate vacuum line to the other port on the solenoid in hopes that might fix my boost issue.

It did occur to me that I could be pinching a line though as its just regular vacuum line that I am using. What does everyone else use? Should i be using braided line?

[1320king]

Sounds stupid but could you have a broken relucter wheel? Would make sense as a broken or feed wheel would throw the balance and everything else all out of wack. Hopefully not! Onlything else I can think of is your dropping a cylinder. How is your tach setup? Maybe its a coil or the harness on that side.

[SuperSlow]

Doesn't sound stupid at all, it looked good when I threw the motor together but who knows. The tach gets signal from the pcm through an autometer tach adapter.

Worst case scenario I'll  have to swap to the 4.8 I have sitting. Thanks, this is the kind of stuff I need!

Switching out the wastegate springs right now. Going to the middle guy from the one on the left. If that doesn't work then I'll throw the tiny one in and see what happens.

[SuperSlow]

Phone won't let me post pics...

[spacevomit]

 

[SuperSlow]

Well the good news is that boost seems to be holding at 9 psi, although I only took it up to about 4500 rpm.

Car still bucks like crazy in 6th gear cruising at about 1400 rpm. Took a log to send off to the tuner though so hopefully he can fix that. It starts slightly better but still takes several cranks when warmed up. Seems like the new sensors didn't really do anything.

Going to do some research on the autometer tach adapter, go through the wiring and probably give autometer a call in the morning to try and figure out why my tach is so jumpy. Still not ruling out the reluctor wheel, but just want to completely cover my bases first.

One reason why I am leaning towards it being something else is that the efi live does not lose signal like the tach. It does jump around at idle and what not though but I am assuming this is normal. Please correct me if my assumption is wrong here though.

[SuperSlow]

Didn't take long to find something that looks promising! Autometer's intructions have a small not which exactly describes my tach issue, says to call service department and they will help me out. They are closed now so it will have to wait until tomorrow morning but hopefully everything will work out.