March 18, 2025, 05:24:21 PM

Author Topic: Luke duke is a NEWB again... Pro-Street FC Build  (Read 8718 times)

Offline spacevomit

Re: Luke duke is a NEWB again... Pro-Street FC Build
« Reply #45 on: May 14, 2011, 11:22:36 AM »
Maybe I missed it, but what kind of head gasket setup are you running? Is it possible you're pressurizing the cooling system?

luke skyjakcer

  • Guest
Re: Luke duke is a NEWB again... Pro-Street FC Build
« Reply #46 on: May 14, 2011, 11:27:55 AM »
the motor is stock like it came out of the yard.

i had the steam tube routed into the water pump, now i put it into the top of the radiator. didnt notice a difference. i would think a cobra radiator would cool this thing, but it gets to 190 @ idle then driving just a short distance gets it up to 210. havent even really put much load on it to see what happens.

Offline spacevomit

Re: Luke duke is a NEWB again... Pro-Street FC Build
« Reply #47 on: May 14, 2011, 11:31:20 AM »
Have any ducting? Fan setup?

Offline zbrown

Re: Luke duke is a NEWB again... Pro-Street FC Build
« Reply #48 on: May 14, 2011, 11:57:42 AM »
sure you didn't lift a head?
8.50/165



Offline spacevomit

Re: Luke duke is a NEWB again... Pro-Street FC Build
« Reply #49 on: May 14, 2011, 11:59:19 AM »
Yeah that's what I was thinking.

luke skyjakcer

  • Guest
Re: Luke duke is a NEWB again... Pro-Street FC Build
« Reply #50 on: May 14, 2011, 12:03:51 PM »
i have two 10" fans with shrouds. (look at the setup earlier in the thread, just on a bigger rad) no coolant in oil, no oil in coolant.

Offline spacevomit

Re: Luke duke is a NEWB again... Pro-Street FC Build
« Reply #51 on: May 14, 2011, 12:14:20 PM »
Needs moar ducting.

luke skyjakcer

  • Guest
Re: Luke duke is a NEWB again... Pro-Street FC Build
« Reply #52 on: May 14, 2011, 12:22:04 PM »
Needs moar ducting.

like shrouding or outside air?

Offline zbrown

Re: Luke duke is a NEWB again... Pro-Street FC Build
« Reply #53 on: May 14, 2011, 12:29:17 PM »
You don't need oil in the water or vice versa

Unhook the line going to overflow....... stick it with the hose end submerged in a clear bottle of water

Watch for bubbles..... reving is usually enough to see it, if not load the car and have the bottle where you can see it and watch for bubbles
8.50/165



luke skyjakcer

  • Guest
Re: Luke duke is a NEWB again... Pro-Street FC Build
« Reply #54 on: May 14, 2011, 12:49:33 PM »
that might be it then. i thought i would see steam in the exhaust or oil contamination.

what headgaskets to go back with?

reusing headbolts on these is a no-no right?   studs?

Offline zbrown

Re: Luke duke is a NEWB again... Pro-Street FC Build
« Reply #55 on: May 14, 2011, 01:27:37 PM »
Yeah they will usually push on the perimeter edge of the bank and catch the water jacket.

If it isn't bad and you are only leaking some on a couple cylinders it will do just what you describe..... fill the catch can over and over.....

Just go back with some standard ARP studs and some Ls9 gaskets and call it a day
8.50/165



Offline gnx7

Re: Luke duke is a NEWB again... Pro-Street FC Build
« Reply #56 on: May 14, 2011, 01:54:30 PM »
Make sure you have all the air out of the cooling system.  The LS motors are a PITA to bleed it all out.  I put in a petcock valve at the top of the water pump where the flat casting surface is just under the TB cable cam arm location.  Make sure they interfere before you drill/tap that area.

'93 FD: 441ci/AllPro LS7 heads/intake en route, T56 Mag, 8.8" IRS, HolleyHP, DavisTechTC 10.32@137mph cats/full exhaust. 165mph 1/2 mile (old LS7)
'93 FD LS9 turbo, T56 Mag, Samberg 8.8" solid axle, 9.35@163mph 197mph 1/2 mile
`69 Chevelle: alum 5.3, GTS76 turbo, ChiseledPerf A/W, T56 Magnum,Ford 35 spline 9".CTS-V interior http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=18234.0
old yellar....440rwhp/FD sold but not forgotten: http://www.ponycars.net/scc.htm
I sell new T56 Magnums/McLeod clutch/T56 rebuild kits/Holley EFI/FIC injectors and all BrianTooleyRacing parts.  norcalmotorsport@gmail.com

luke skyjakcer

  • Guest
Re: Luke duke is a NEWB again... Pro-Street FC Build
« Reply #57 on: May 15, 2011, 11:32:38 AM »
Make sure you have all the air out of the cooling system.  The LS motors are a PITA to bleed it all out.  I put in a petcock valve at the top of the water pump where the flat casting surface is just under the TB cable cam arm location.  Make sure they interfere before you drill/tap that area.

i welded a fill cap and upper hose attatchment to the top of the waterpump. doubt there is air in it. When i initially started the motor with no water, it was pushing what i though was steam out of the heater hoses/ upper water pupm outlet. i though it was due to residual moisture being turned to stem by combustion in the cylinder head cooling passages. now im leaning towards combustion actually leaking into the water passages in the head. the only time i pushed the engine with boost/load it filled the overflow tank almost instantly. the temp was only 210, not enough to boil the water.

i guess i will be throwing head gaskets at this thing soon........ im gonna cam swap it while i have the heads off i guess. Z06 cam and prob some patriot golds. i have a set of yellow LS6 springs but some comments have made me scarred of them. opinions?