FC3S Differential Pinion Brace (By Ray Platek)

[atli126]

So I found this product but apparently it's a major major major bitch to install but won't break. I'm trying to order one but lucky 10 http://www.lucky-10.com/ is saying they don't have any in stock. But this seems like a great legit option if it won't break or rip the subframe tabs (not supposed to)











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[atli126]

http://www.lucky-10.com/parts.html

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[ebdyguy]

I guess I don't see why it would not break the tab off the subframe unless the compliance from the delrin? bushings somehow prevent it from happening.  In any case - whatever gets stronger creates the next most likely weakest link which IMO is the tab on the subframe.

[largeorangefont]

I would not run the solid subframe and front diff mount with rubber rear bushings. It will ha e a better chance of living..

[atli126]

So unless I hear from lucky 10 about getting that nice mount with the poly, I'll just go with the standard mazdaspeed competition front mount, have it box welded and keep the rubber subframe bushings and just install a pinion snubber bump stop this time around. The last mazdaspeed front differential competition mount did last 5 years...

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[largeorangefont]

Was your old diff mount boxed in (i'm assuming not). If you are box welding it it together, just get the PBM solid front diff mount. That Lucky 10 thing is effectively solid anyway.

If you go solid in front you need solid subframe bushings or you will break the subframe next time.

If you like the way it was from an NVH perspective, buy 2 mazdacomps, one to replace the broken one and one to have on hand as a spare. Preload the front of the diff with a snubber and it will be fine for a long long time.

[atli126]

I'm going to do the latter just get the Mazda comp one, snubber, and I bought the poly bushings for the dog bone too

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[atli126]

http://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-product-dev-fc-rx-7-268/front-diff-mount-prototype-997329/

here is another option but still cant buy

[atli126]

Soooo I still have the car apart and am waiting on parts, I finally bought the lucky 10 front (with semi-solid UHMW plastic (Ultra High Molecular Weight) bushings and I also have the mazdaspeed oem front mount (might end up selling that one)

but now am debating on going with these delrin subframe bushings

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111814656780?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 to try to help it. From what ive read and those I've spoken with it seems like the delrin in the subframe wont transmit that much nvh into the car but help hold it all together better. I got 3/16's steel plate that we will be welding in and gusseting to make the subframe tabs stronger. I'm hoping that will help keep it all together.

What do you know about the delrin in the subframe? Does it make it harder to install the rear subframe back in?

Here is my setup;

Ronin level 2 rear camber links, stock mazda link (useless with delrin subframe mounts right?) dtss in the rear arms, poly bushings, and the mazdaspeed diff bushings with a t2 s4 turbo diff.

[largeorangefont]

Yes go with delrin subframe bushings.

That diff mount is basically solid, but it should reduce some noise.

Install is as follows:
Install diff and subframe as a unit.
Bolt front diff mount to diff and torque to spec.
Bolt subframe to diff loosely, just so they don't fall apart.
Raise assembly onto the car and when the subframe and diff are both on the mounting studs, go in with a ratchet with an extension and tighten the front diff mount to the subframe.
Raise it the rest of the way and torque subframe and rear diff bolts to spec.

[atli126]

Any chance I could leave the diff in the car. It's up on a lift now and we took it apart without pulling the diff. But that was with the broken Subframe tabs so that might have helped...

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[largeorangefont]

Any chance I could leave the diff in the car. It's up on a lift now and we took it apart without pulling the diff. But that was with the broken Subframe tabs so that might have helped...

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Broken subframe tab helped a lot.

Yea.. you'll want to lower it on the rear mounts as low as you can and support the front.

[atli126]

Ok thanks i really just don't want to pull axles etc

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[largeorangefont]

Ok thanks i really just don't want to pull axles etc

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What did you do to get it out? lower the subframe and pull the trailing arm bolts, camber dogbones and sublink? Are the trailing arms still hanging from the shocks in the car?

[atli126]

Yup, prob not the best idea u

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