1989 GTU - 355 SBC - T5 - Non-Bubba Build

[texfc]

From Summit, # PRO-141-751.  They have the black crinkle finish.

[N2v8fcs]

very nice ! and similar to my build . I also used the Granny's  shorted fork and "pull" type slave  . My  set up has worked since '02 with very little to no  problems  .

[texfc]

More progress today, finished the fuel system. Gas is in the tank for the first time in 2 years! I decided to run a 3/8 inch line down the passenger side because I didn’t want to extend the OEM line across the engine bay to the pump, and from what I’ve read, the 5/16 line is marginal with an old-school mechanical pump and a healthy V8. The line is 3/8 aluminum, and was very easy to work with.  The fuel is filtered 3 times, fuel screen at the pickup, inline filter next to the tank, and a final filter at the carb.



Re-did the fuel tank with a bulkhead AN fitting and hard line.





Ran the last 2 feet of the line in Thermo-Sleeve.

[texfc]

Another quick update, I got the brakes finished this week.  Painted the calipers with Dupli-Color shaker can caliper paint and the obligatory Mazda logo filing.  After reading all the posts on performance street pads, I decided to purchase the Porterfield R4-S pads from LPI Racing (site sponsor).  Got a new Wagner brand master from Rock Auto, but the reservoir was very yellowed, so I swapped it for the old OEM one that still looked good.  Got the rotors turned at the local NAPA store. All of the brake items are from the 1988 GXL parts car.  Everything was just a bolt-on to the 1989 GTU base car. Had to adjust the rod from the booster to take some of the free-play out of the brake pedal, but that was about it.







Bench bleeding the new master:


Made a vacuum bleeder from stuff I had in the garage:

[digitalsolo]

Pretty snazzy vacuum bleeder you made. 

[Sho Amo]

Im really not happy with the 'brush on' Duplicolor caliper paint. Your spray type is looking awesome.

Project is looking good

[bikedad]

Looks great!

Looks like a white version of my car almost. LOL!

[texfc]

Got the exhaust finished up yesterday, and it was the most labor intensive project yet on the car.  Part of that was due to not having a lift for the car, and also because I was learning how to do it.  I want to thank Don Teifke (bikedad) for posting the great photos of his new exhaust.  I used them as a guide in building mine.  I bought 2 J-bends and 2 U-bends, 2 straight 4-foot sections, the Summit narrow X pipe, 2 Jegs ball and socket couplers, and 2 Summit Turbo mufflers.  I had the Magnaflow on a previous car and it was a little loud for me, especially after a year of driving.  I’m still learning how to weld, but getting better at it, only half of my welds look like piled up buggers.

A few things I learned on this project:
1.The mandrel bends are about 1/8 inch smaller diameter than the straight section, not a big deal when welding, but there will be a ridge on the inside.  If I had to do it again, I might invest in a bender for bends less than 20 degrees.

2.When welding the tubing, rotate it so you are always welding down the side, so that gravity helps pull the bead along.  If you weld directly on top, gravity wants to pull the bead inside the tube, and you get a burn through.

3.Burn throughs are not a big deal, just let it cool down and go back and fill it in.  I duct taped the ends and put low pressure air in the pipes and checked the welds for pin holes with soapy water.  Marked them and went back and tacked them shut.

I welded in O2 bungs on both sides in case I get a wideband gauge or switch to EFI down the road.  The Jegs ball and socket couplers are nice that they allow a little bit of angle if the pipes are not exactly lined up.  When I was done welding, I painted everything with the Dupli-color ceramic engine paint (cast iron).  I don’t know if it will last, but it might keep the welds from getting rusty.

Don's exhaust photos taped to the window:


My welding rig, an old copier cart from the office:


Pieces tacked and ready to be welded:








Jegs couplers:


O2 bung:


My custom 20 degree slant cut tip:


This is all I had left over when I was done:

[theantirotor]

I think it looks like you did a very nice job on your exhaust.  Was this your first time doing that?

I had an exhaust shop make my old exhaust and it didn't look near that nice and probably cost at least 3 times as much.   

[bikedad]

Very nice! Almost makes me wish I would have tried to weld my own. (but I wouldn't have had a picture to go from  )

FYI: I lost my nuts..... on the driver side header flange.
I'm going to put locking nuts to hold the serrated nuts on this time. There's enough expansion and contraction to loosen them up.

[texfc]

I think it looks like you did a very nice job on your exhaust.  Was this your first time doing that?

I had an exhaust shop make my old exhaust and it didn't look near that nice and probably cost at least 3 times as much.   

Yes, this was my first time to try this, practiced on some scrap tubing first.  It took me 3 weekends to complete.

Very nice! Almost makes me wish I would have tried to weld my own. (but I wouldn't have had a picture to go from  )

FYI: I lost my nuts..... on the driver side header flange.
I'm going to put locking nuts to hold the serrated nuts on this time. There's enough expansion and contraction to loosen them up.

I always thought you had a few loose screws!   Do you think just putting jam nuts behind the header nuts would work, or do I need to get locking nuts?

[bikedad]

Jam nuts might keep them from falling off when they get loose.
I'm just going to put another nut on to lock it in place. Just tighten it against the first nut. I'm hoping that will keep it from loosening up.

I'll let you know what happens.

[Sho Amo]

Looks great! Where did you get the exhaust tubing from and what gauge is it?

[texfc]

The pipe is from Summit, 16 gauge aluminized steel.

[digitalsolo]

If you get locking nuts, get the all metal kind, not the nylock kind.