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#15 by 3 fingered willy on 05 Dec, 2010 19:56
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When I talked to Ray about noon and said you guys had been drinking beer all morning and were pretty well loaded, I think he wasn't kidding.
We were on our way back from home depot with some JB Weld metal epoxy to fill the front cradle bushings to help prevent forward and back movement.
This is a trial so we'll see what happens with the process. Stay tuned.
TIP!
Just knock those bushings out and turn them til the gap is at 3' O clock, and 9 O'clock, At least then you will be on the solid part of the bushing. -
#16 by bikedad on 20 Dec, 2010 20:11
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[smg id=2554 type=box]
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#17 by mxman on 30 Jul, 2012 18:09
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i welded plates across the rubber bushing, lol
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#18 by bikedad on 11 Nov, 2013 22:23
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[smg id=6526 type=box]
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#19 by frijolee on 12 Nov, 2013 17:12
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I'm another who prefers to drop the subframe and diff together as unit. A 2x4 running fore-aft and spanning between both subframe and diff can be balanced so you lower the whole thing at once with one jack. Otherwise you might want to point out that when you tie up the rear brakes you only need the caliper center section, the support bracket can be left in situ.
Thanks for taking the time to write that up! -
#20 by bikedad on 12 Nov, 2013 17:46
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I'm another who prefers to drop the subframe and diff together as unit. A 2x4 running fore-aft and spanning between both subframe and diff can be balanced so you lower the whole thing at once with one jack. Otherwise you might want to point out that when you tie up the rear brakes you only need the caliper center section, the support bracket can be left in situ.
Thanks for taking the time to write that up!
Joel,
I need to redo this procedure. I too drop the cradle and diff as a whole now. So much easier and faster.
I'll be doing this fairly soon and will take pictures again. I want to tighten up the lash. -
#21 by frijolee on 12 Nov, 2013 19:30