403 LS2 FD - LS7 Build for 2020!

[MPbdy]

Murray do you disable dynamic air when you’re doing the maf or leave it enabled?

I’m not close enough in fueling to do your method yet.  Where I used to live had some huge hills I could motor up from 2k it was great.

I thought I had an old tune picked out with a dialed in MAF curve for the ls7 maf but man it was so far off. It was like 30% lean initially. I’m too far off to do long pulls still but I’m getting closer. Some areas are still trending 16:1 lean.

I did get into PE once or twice just to see if it’s closer and the initial tip in is good, but lean after that too. It sure feels lively it is very responsive and snappy. When it’s actually dialed in I think the car is going to feel great with the tuneup it just got.

[FC3S Murray]

Yeah I disable dynamic air.


You know if your off quite a bit and your logs show it is around the same % off globally you could always just take your MAF curve and multiply it by that or half.


I was showing 8 to 12% lean all over on my MAF last month so I just multiplied it by 1.10 and that got me pretty close. Didn't take too long to dial in after that. I always hand tweak my curve too (not the smooth feature..i actually click peaks and valleys and line them up accordingly) until I get the curve my engine likes. Obviously once it is tuned within 2% the MAF has a little wiggle to it but I have seen that with many setups I have tuned with cam/headers/ect. Never as smooth as the OEM curve once tuned correctly.

Anyway always good  practice to get the tune initially too rich so you don't have to stress about running dangerously too lean under load when working with a tune that is that far off from the start.

[scuter83]

How did you do the LS7 MAF curve from a start?  I have a vette intake with LS3 MAF so I was able to just take the stock LS3 MAF curve and re-interpolate to the E40 LS2 frequency break points.  Didn't really have to change too much after that.

[MPbdy]

How did you do the LS7 MAF curve from a start?  I have a vette intake with LS3 MAF so I was able to just take the stock LS3 MAF curve and re-interpolate to the E40 LS2 frequency break points.  Didn't really have to change too much after that.

It’s not my first go round with the ls7 maf so I copied from one of my old tunes from 4-5 years ago.

I’m on hold for a few days waiting for some clutch pedal parts to come in. Dove under the dash to adjust the pedal height and found a couple issues that needed addressing. The tune should clean up very quick once I get back out.

[MPbdy]

Lol sometimes I laugh at some of the stupid updates I've made you guys look at when everyone is expecting an ls7 update or a burnout video, but this is what I've been working on.

I wanted to adjust my clutch rod because the pedal was taking up way up at the top, and with the new light clutch it was really hard to drive smooth.  It turned into a bit of an ordeal.  Turns out some jackass (me) cross threaded the fuck out of the clevis last time, and the threads were jacked beyond repair.  Mazda being Mazda of course decided to be weird and make it a fine thread 8mmx1 which doesn't match any of my 8x1.25 taps.  There are also no clevises available in the country anymore from Mazda.

I also found that the clevis pin had its way with the clutch pedal arm.  The bushing was blown out, and it was elongated like 1/4" with no end in sight.  I ordered a 3/4" by 1/4" spacer from McMaster and went to town with my harbor freight unibit lol.  Precision.

I drilled out the clevis to the correct diameter for a helicoil if plan A didn't work out, but I think this is going to work well.  It's just a slip fit through the clevis, but it is captured through the full travel of the pedal.  The clutch takes up just off the floor now and feels way better.






Another one of the weekend projects was to finally put sliders on the Tillett.  I still love the seat so I figured I should make it a bit more permanent.  Now people big and small can drive the car again  





And lastly, big news from yesterday, picked up a new "family car."  The damn dog is 50 pounds now and won't stop growing lmao.  Traded in the M235i as it was running out of CPO warranty, and BMW was refusing to diagnose an electronic damper issue without money up front in case it wasn't covered.  I was looking at minimum $2000 if they didn't cover the eventual issue on a car I wanted to trade-in anyways.  Mercedes matched their top dollar trade in estimate and I didn't have to fix it..sooooo now we have a sweet car that we both can drive, and the dog fits in the back. 

It is a 2018 certified GLA 45, 375 hp 7 speed dual clutch AWD that absolutely rips.  They call it an SUV, but ride height is lower than most sedans and it runs mid 12's stock.  Way higher performance all around than the 235 was.  It is my first time ever driving an AWD car, and first Merc I've driven too.  It gets ragged on in reviews for not being well appointed or as luxury inside as other AMG's, but it suits us better anyway.  All go and limited electronic fluff to break in the future. 

We now have another fun car so we can both participate in Canyon drives, and whatever track events we want to attend which I'm super excited about. 

[shirley]

 

[kinger]

I need to add a roller blade ball bearing to my clutch pedal as well, there is no bushing in there and its metal on metal that I keep lubricated with white lithium grease twice yearly.  Looks like a nice fix!

[MPbdy]

The ball bearing is a good idea!  8mm x 19mm x 6mm is a standard size too. The steel race should have no wear issues. I expect this aluminum spacer will start showing wear eventually too like the pedal did.

[digitalsolo]

The classic Mustang guys do that ball bearing swap on the clutch pedals because they wear the clevis out.   Good idea for sure!

[MPbdy]

 

Someone wants their photo cred :p

The pic Shirley posted is one of the YouTube comments from the /tuned video my car was in lol

[Cobranut]

Lol sometimes I laugh at some of the stupid updates I've made you guys look at when everyone is expecting an ls7 update or a burnout video, but this is what I've been working on.

I wanted to adjust my clutch rod because the pedal was taking up way up at the top, and with the new light clutch it was really hard to drive smooth.  It turned into a bit of an ordeal.  Turns out some jackass (me) cross threaded the fuck out of the clevis last time, and the threads were jacked beyond repair.  Mazda being Mazda of course decided to be weird and make it a fine thread 8mmx1 which doesn't match any of my 8x1.25 taps.  There are also no clevises available in the country anymore from Mazda.

I also found that the clevis pin had its way with the clutch pedal arm.  The bushing was blown out, and it was elongated like 1/4" with no end in sight.  I ordered a 3/4" by 1/4" spacer from McMaster and went to town with my harbor freight unibit lol.  Precision.

I drilled out the clevis to the correct diameter for a helicoil if plan A didn't work out, but I think this is going to work well.  It's just a slip fit through the clevis, but it is captured through the full travel of the pedal.  The clutch takes up just off the floor now and feels way better.






Another one of the weekend projects was to finally put sliders on the Tillett.  I still love the seat so I figured I should make it a bit more permanent.  Now people big and small can drive the car again  





And lastly, big news from yesterday, picked up a new "family car."  The damn dog is 50 pounds now and won't stop growing lmao.  Traded in the M235i as it was running out of CPO warranty, and BMW was refusing to diagnose an electronic damper issue without money up front in case it wasn't covered.  I was looking at minimum $2000 if they didn't cover the eventual issue on a car I wanted to trade-in anyways.  Mercedes matched their top dollar trade in estimate and I didn't have to fix it..sooooo now we have a sweet car that we both can drive, and the dog fits in the back. 

It is a 2018 certified GLA 45, 375 hp 7 speed dual clutch AWD that absolutely rips.  They call it an SUV, but ride height is lower than most sedans and it runs mid 12's stock.  Way higher performance all around than the 235 was.  It is my first time ever driving an AWD car, and first Merc I've driven too.  It gets ragged on in reviews for not being well appointed or as luxury inside as other AMG's, but it suits us better anyway.  All go and limited electronic fluff to break in the future. 

We now have another fun car so we can both participate in Canyon drives, and whatever track events we want to attend which I'm super excited about. 

I like that seat, and the seat cover looks great too.   

[MPbdy]

Yeyaaaaaa this thing rips.  It is running real nice.  The LS7 maf is working great with the honeycomb.  I'm really surprised but I'm still getting all the way down to 95kPA from 100kPA ambient even after removing the small GTO MAF and touching up a few other things.  I just can't feed this thing enough air.  I guess it really needs a bigger TB.

I bumped the dwell to 6mS and honestly think it slowed down a hair and I noticed some small KR events.  I'm either going to set it back to stock or take 1-2 degrees of timing out and try again.  I'm seeing real good MAF and cyl air numbers, but I'm a little over-fueled still so they'd come down.  Not going to put any more work into the tune until after the headers are on it.  I think I'm actually going to pursue getting a professional tune done, and at the least get some fresh dyno pulls done.

This clutch is AWESOME.  Driveability is easy now that the clutch takes up lower.  The car feels snappier and I feel like it is faster in total from everything that was done, but it has also been a minute since I've wheeled anything fast.  It rows gears so easy sometimes I question if it even went into gear.  There is much less load on the syncros with such a light clutch.  I find it very easy to drive smooth, but the window for error is a little tighter.

[Exidous]

Your TPS is off or your not getting a fully open blade. I think the TPS it throwing off your cylinder airmass calculation. It should be higher than. 83g/cyl. My LS1 did .88g at WOT.

Can you do a log of a longer pull in one gear? Your MAP seem a little too consistent. If the is a restriction you'll see 100kPa at lower RPM and then taper to 95.

[MPbdy]

The LS2 DBW blades are 88% at full throttle that is normal.

I did one uphill 4th gear pull from 2000 rpm up to almost 5000 rpm.  MAP started out at 100.5 and dropped to 98.  Above 6000 it drops some more to 95-97 kPa range.

At 7000 rpm I'm wayyyyy past the torque curve on this thing which is why it is down at .83 g/cyl.  I tune it out to the 7200 limiter, but this thing is all done by 6500.  It is only a 226 intake lobe on a 402" engine which is probably the same size as your LS1 had haha.

It is hitting .98-1.03 g/cyl in the midrange.

[Exidous]

You aren't far off. Mine was a 225/227+114. Carried all the way to 7k and didn't drop off at all but still had really good low end. Spent a lot of time with Tony Mamo making sure the valve train was on point.

Was your peak torque around 5.7k? Guessing off injector duty cycle. If so, it's odd that it's rolling over only 1k later. What intake? Stock LS3?

That does sound like a restriction then. Is the MAP at the back or the front of the manifold. The front will generally read 2-3kPa higher than the front.