March 14, 2025, 07:51:59 PM

Author Topic: 403 LS2 FD - LS7 Build for 2020!  (Read 278712 times)

Offline MPbdy

Re: 403 LS2 FD - I'm back! T56 Magnum and Cobra 8.8 swap in process
« Reply #615 on: November 09, 2016, 09:16:37 PM »


Preview of everything I'm doing wrong.

Milled the bat ears off the explorer cover I had. Hoping it fits. Textured black powder coat. Cut one of the legs off the subframe for exhaust clearance.





Offline Cobranut

Re: 403 LS2 FD - I'm back! T56 Magnum and Cobra 8.8 swap in process
« Reply #616 on: November 09, 2016, 10:33:11 PM »
I don't think I would've cut that leg off the subframe.  :scratch: That component takes a lot of stress under hard acceleration.
My 3" dual exhaust clears my subframe without any real problems, and that's with 4 mufflers and an X-Pipe in the system.
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.

Offline MPbdy

Re: 403 LS2 FD - I'm back! T56 Magnum and Cobra 8.8 swap in process
« Reply #617 on: November 10, 2016, 02:31:56 AM »
The diff nose is raising up under accel which is going almost 100% into the crossmember. The stock diff w/ Samberg mount is mounted with ears in the back and a crossmember only in the front. Those legs do add some chassis stiffness so there is some loss there I suppose, but I had no legs on the last setup.

Trying to reuse as much of my old dual exhaust as I can and it ran basically right where that leg was.

Offline radiomike

Re: 403 LS2 FD - I'm back! T56 Magnum and Cobra 8.8 swap in process
« Reply #618 on: November 10, 2016, 05:51:07 AM »
I agree with Cobranut, someone posted a video on here some time ago of the cross member flexing during a dyno pull and it was scary.  Assuming 450 ft lbs at the motor, a 2.6:1 first gear and 3.5 final drive the reaction forces are something like 4000 ft lbs at a steady state, sidestep the clutch with the inertia of the flywheel/clutch at 6000rpm and the instantaneous torque is far higher.

My large torque wrench goes up to 750 ft lbs and I would think twice before applying that to the side of the final drive.....

Offline Tictakman

Re: 403 LS2 FD - I'm back! T56 Magnum and Cobra 8.8 swap in process
« Reply #619 on: November 10, 2016, 07:08:34 AM »
I used a press to oval my exhaust pipe in that area.. cheaper than buying oval pipe.

Offline MPbdy

Re: 403 LS2 FD - I'm back! T56 Magnum and Cobra 8.8 swap in process
« Reply #620 on: November 21, 2016, 08:51:34 PM »
Getting closerrrrrrrrrrrr

Built the Cobra diff with my new to me T2R diff, 3.73 gears, and all new bearings.



Explorer cover modified heavily to fit.  Happy to see the explorer cover fit with the samberg setup...saved me a little money, has cooling fins, and a bit more capacity than the cobra cover.



Everything fits!!  The rear exhaust section didn't need any modification except a little love under the crossmember.  Can't see it here because the muffler section isn't on, but my exhaust routed right where that tube went that I hacked out.

The crossmember fit...pretty good?  It needed 1/4" spacers under the front mounting tabs.  It also needed an extra 9mm of washers stacked up under the ears to get the driveline angle right.  The trans is at .2* up and the diff is at .2* down in the car which is very nice.



Just a little squish.



Nooice.



A kind of big expense and unplanned when I started was a pair of Kooks "Green" cats.  They claim they're 90% effective in not setting check engine lights in late model applications.  Stainless steel core with 300 cell count and packed full of the good stuff to make them actually work effectively.  Everyone bitches that my car is too loud, but I didn't want the weight and tear up of cramming two more mufflers in it somewhere.  It also has been kinda stanky since the old cats came out.  They were $600 for the pair...sure hope they do their job.  It is the last major job for getting the car back together.

Oh...and a pinion snubber cross brace thing to go over the nose of the diff.



And I was secretly happy to see that I have next to no clearance to the old gutted cats with the new trans in place...I guess I had to do something right?


Offline largeorangefont

Re: 403 LS2 FD - I'm back! T56 Magnum and Cobra 8.8 swap in process
« Reply #621 on: November 21, 2016, 09:56:48 PM »
Nice work. It will be much easier to service the diff with the Exploder cover.. the Cobra cover is stupid.

That thing is gonna be mean with the T2R and 3.73s
Quote from: cool
Sell it to spacevomit.  He'll finish it.

Offline MPbdy

Re: 403 LS2 FD - I'm back! T56 Magnum and Cobra 8.8 swap in process
« Reply #622 on: November 21, 2016, 10:44:19 PM »
Thanks!  I'm looking forward to being able to actually power out of corners hopefully.  The RE71R's are already worse for traction than I remember them being when new and they only have about 2k miles and one autox day on them...can't believe sitting in a garage for 9 months really aged them much...Can't wait to get Toyo's back on this thing.

In other news the radiator is still seeping a little bit which really made me want to break things.  I'm thinking a custom radiator is in my future at some point...but not for quite some time.  I need to recover from this mess first.  Something with an integrated oil cooler and better cooling potential would be nice.  I have something in mind for an air induction but don't know if I can fit a large enough filter not to choke the engine.  Washing an air filter every time I changed my oil wouldn't be the end of the world.

Offline largeorangefont

Re: 403 LS2 FD - I'm back! T56 Magnum and Cobra 8.8 swap in process
« Reply #623 on: November 21, 2016, 11:36:03 PM »
Thanks!  I'm looking forward to being able to actually power out of corners hopefully.  The RE71R's are already worse for traction than I remember them being when new and they only have about 2k miles and one autox day on them...can't believe sitting in a garage for 9 months really aged them much...Can't wait to get Toyo's back on this thing.

In other news the radiator is still seeping a little bit which really made me want to break things.  I'm thinking a custom radiator is in my future at some point...but not for quite some time.  I need to recover from this mess first.  Something with an integrated oil cooler and better cooling potential would be nice.  I have something in mind for an air induction but don't know if I can fit a large enough filter not to choke the engine.  Washing an air filter every time I changed my oil wouldn't be the end of the world.

Yea only put 100 treadwear tires on that thing. A couple aggressive heat cycles make those 180-200 treadwear tires much less sticky. I like the upgraded radiator idea.

Quote from: cool
Sell it to spacevomit.  He'll finish it.

Offline gnx7

Re: 403 LS2 FD - I'm back! T56 Magnum and Cobra 8.8 swap in process
« Reply #624 on: November 22, 2016, 01:59:30 AM »
Man o man do I love white FD's!

Great progress..... hope you have it potentially running this month!

On the street those poly diff bushings should be fine..... on the track mine literally melted after a day of road racing.  I had the stock TracLok LSD in my Cobra rear and a single 3.5" exhaut passing by pretty close to the diff mounts.  Solution for me was the Maximum Motorsports aluminum solid rear diff bushings. 
'93 FD: 441ci/AllPro LS7 heads/intake en route, T56 Mag, 8.8" IRS, HolleyHP, DavisTechTC 10.32@137mph cats/full exhaust. 165mph 1/2 mile (old LS7)
'93 FD LS9 turbo, T56 Mag, Samberg 8.8" solid axle, 9.35@163mph 197mph 1/2 mile
`69 Chevelle: alum 5.3, GTS76 turbo, ChiseledPerf A/W, T56 Magnum,Ford 35 spline 9".CTS-V interior http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=18234.0
old yellar....440rwhp/FD sold but not forgotten: http://www.ponycars.net/scc.htm
I sell new T56 Magnums/McLeod clutch/T56 rebuild kits/Holley EFI/FIC injectors and all BrianTooleyRacing parts.  norcalmotorsport@gmail.com

Offline largeorangefont

Re: 403 LS2 FD - I'm back! T56 Magnum and Cobra 8.8 swap in process
« Reply #625 on: November 22, 2016, 01:11:55 PM »
Man o man do I love white FD's!

Great progress..... hope you have it potentially running this month!

On the street those poly diff bushings should be fine..... on the track mine literally melted after a day of road racing.  I had the stock TracLok LSD in my Cobra rear and a single 3.5" exhaut passing by pretty close to the diff mounts.  Solution for me was the Maximum Motorsports aluminum solid rear diff bushings. 

+eleventy million on all counts.

Quote from: cool
Sell it to spacevomit.  He'll finish it.

Offline turbotalon1g

Re: 403 LS2 FD - I'm back! T56 Magnum and Cobra 8.8 swap in process
« Reply #626 on: April 16, 2018, 10:31:45 PM »
updates?

Offline MPbdy

Re: 403 LS2 FD - I'm back! T56 Magnum and Cobra 8.8 swap in process
« Reply #627 on: November 21, 2019, 12:54:03 PM »
updates?

A little late, but I have updates! Lol.  Thanks to Kinger for finally getting me to put some words down about what I've been doing with this thing over the past couple years.  We've had some similar experiences, and similar attitude toward what the car SHOULD be based on time, money and effort invested.  These cars fight you every step of the way if you actually care about refinement.  It is easy to build a fast polished turd, but if that's all I was doing I wouldn't have sunk this much money into it.

I went through a string of really bad luck with this car.  I can say now that the car is better than ever, but it has been a long, long road to get here.

First off...things went wrong with the 8.8.  About 4 years back I was away for an entire year for work and pretty much saved up with grand plans to do a T56 magnum, 8.8, twin disk clutch and maybe a couple other things all at once.

Pretty much everything turned into a shit show and fought me along the way.  Nothing unexpected with a project car, but the thought was after dumping $6k into the car it'd be a little more "refined".  For the money spent on top of the line parts, it shouldn't drive and act like a shitbox.  It especially hurt since the whole motivation behind these mods was to make it more refined and a better street car.  Before I did all this the car was the fastest and more fun to drive because the drivetrain atleast was without issues...it was just catless, had 4.10's and GTO gears screaming on the highway, had a mazda diff that might explode someday, had a heavy single disk clutch etc.

A summary of things I can remember - The driveshaft was built at the wrong length and needed to be remade on my dime, the magnum (brand new) pops out of reverse, the shifter leaks like a sieve and the whole underside is HEAVILY lubricated, the twin disk has an awful rattle at 1800 rpm, the 8.8 had gnarly gear whine and I rebuilt it with new gears only for it to still have whine...my custom dual exhaust didn't fit under the 8.8...once I got the car driving the car STILL had vibrations at highway speed...oh and I tried more of a street tire with the RE71R's only to find that they were just as bad as an R-Comp lol.  Last but not least, the car had far worse wheel hop than with the old mazda diff (which I actually really liked, but wasn't a fan of how much NVH it transmitted with a fairly rigid mounting strategy).

So pretty much a major letdown both on refinement and performance.  It is probably my least happy time period of owning the car, and the most money I had spent on it since completion.

Since that round of mods I kept rubbing on it to try and improve things and eventually had a pretty massive failure where the Samberg 8.8 mount completely failed and the driveshaft contacted the floor and destroyed my driveshaft, and basically broke the mounting points on the floor for the Samberg crossmember.  That was another painful time...

 So, lucky for me I live about 5 miles away from Ronin HQ and went and picked up their 8.8 mounting kit and after numerous months of downtime and a lot more expense I was back on the road.  I had to buy another 8.8 (explorer vs cobra), and buy ANOTHER driveshaft because mine hit the floor and gouged it up.  Come to find out - the dual exhaust again did NOT fit and needed to be rerouted around the larger Explorer diff lol.

When I finally got the car back on the road, I still had a lot of vibration at highway speed, a shocking amount of wheel hop, and the goddamn gears still whine (still bitter about this one lol I'm 0/3).  Setting up a rear end is not rocket science but there's something about an aluminum case 8.8 that we just can't get right. The pattern looks good going in, and then coming out the actual wear pattern is different way off.  I don't know if the aluminum cases move or what happens...but this is really just me complaining now.  I'll get it someday when I want to put a 4th set of gears in...

So - long story still long - I am happier than ever with the car, and this is far and away the best it has ever been.  I've put about 22,000 miles on the car since I originally built it.  With these latest mods and after many years I've finally had the confidence to drive the car like it is capable of being driven.  I've always driven it hard and was happy to powerslide it around slow speed, but it has always been nervous at higher speeds and I never really wanted to be on power while changing lanes in a straight line let alone powering through corners.  I always had a sense of the car feeling like an arrow with no feathers.

I can now be full throttle 2nd gear through corners and that is an absolutely mind melting experience.  I would put this thing up against any street car on the road right now, and if I lose a race at least I know I'll be having the most fun.

So, what has gotten me here -
  • Highway Vibration - This has plagued me for the entire existence of my car including day 1 up until very recently.  I think I have had 5 or more driveshaft iterations in the car.  To only talk about the latest experience, the new driveshaft I had built after it hit the shop again did a shit job of balancing the shaft and it shook like a mofo.  After taking it out again and threatening their life they returned it properly balanced, but still had a little shake to it.  After clocking it a couple times I found the "happy spot" for it in the car and finally it is smooth up to 120mph coasting.  Another experiment I did was that I hung a plumb bob from the axles and the driveshaft and used a T-square to find the horizontal alignment of the driveshaft in the car.  The transmission was not on center with the differential and I found a noticeable improvement by moving the tail of the transmission over about 1/2" or more.  Lastly, I had my latest set of tires road force balanced as I've always had to have my tires balanced multiple times to get them smooth. Road force nailed it on the first go.
  • Wheel Hop - My buddy had a C6ZR1 for a while and he actually was crazy enough to pay about $4k to have all the suspension bushings replaced which spherical bearings.  That car had horrible wheel hop, and then when it came back it was night and day difference.  Within a couple days of that joy ride I contacted J-Auto and got his "battle version" lower control arm, toe link and trailing arm.  Wheel hop has been reduced by about 80% over stock arms with Poly bushings.  The remainder of the wheel hop I think could be fixed with solid bushings in the diff, but I'm not interested in going that route.
  • LSD - Far out man.... I had a Torsen T2R in my car with the cobra 8.8.  Previous to that I had the S4 T2 clutch type LSD.  With the stock diff I absolutely loved the car and found it to be one of the most predictable and progressive cars I've ever driven.  With the Torsen diff (which is most recommended and most popular for the 8.8) I found it to be very unpredictable in transitioning in and out of slides, and when spinning tires in a straight line did a lot of tail wagging back and forth.  I could ramble more about the nature of how a Torsen diff works and while I understand their benefit on the track, I find a clutch pack diff is stupid simple to drive and my preference.  I put a cobra clutch type LSD back in the car with the carbon clutches and I hope it lives for a while.  The feel and predictability is back and I'm in love.

    Side note and something that most people don't realize, the Cobra Clunk is almost guaranteed to be in the Torsen style differentials.  Tolerance stackup on multiple gear interfaces causes a lot of delay between driveshaft rotation and axle rotation.  My clunking is gone after installing a clutch pack diff.
  • Tires - I put a full slick on the car. This one was a pretty huge gamble, but it was transformative.  It is still a DOT-R tire, but the Maxxis RC-1 has literally zero tread pattern except one groove.  They're silent, perfectly round, balanced with minimal weight, and grip like a mother fucker.  I have had experience with RE71-R tires and R888's.  Of those two, I liked the R888.  Considering the Maxxis...it is the best driving experience I've ever had.  I think overall performance of all three would likely be similar, but the Maxxis surprisingly makes the best street tire (but I've had to Uber to work the couple times it rained in Cali).
  • Bump Steer - So just like everything else I've had to re-engineer or replace from Samberg, the bumpsteer correction is insufficient in his kit.  I had about 3/8" toe out across the range of travel of the suspension.  Who gives a flying fuck where your alignment is if the wheel it going to move by 1/8" or more when you hit the gas.  For fucks sake.  Anyways, I borrowed Mattster's Longacre bumpsteer kit and took some real measurements.  I have only 17" wheels so I have extremely minimal room to the wheel barrel, but was able to spend some quality time with a grinder and profile some things and space the tie rod further down by about 1/8".  I still have toe out through the wheel motion, but it is about 1/3 what it used to be.  I can let go of the steering wheel and go full throttle and the car never strays from center.  It is absolutely amazing, and so much more confidence inspiring.
  • Seat - I took a gamble and bought a Tillett B5 carbon Lotus seat from a guy who was too fat to fit in it.  I didn't know of anyone at the time who had put a Tillett in the FD, but I saw pictures of them in other tiny cars.  I absolutely love this thing.  I always griped that my stock seat sat me too high.  Now I'm basically on the ground, and it fits me like a less aggressive karting seat.  I love it!!



So what does the car still need?  Well, performance has never been better...but it can't really do it for a long time.

1.  Brakes - if pushed hard I bet I could catch my stock brakes on fire.  The speeds you can gain in such a short time are just dumb.  I need a brake system I can confidently stop for a 20 minute session without requiring race pads.  I don't mind fast pad wear, and there are street friendly high temp pads, but the rotors are physically just too small. 
2.  My 17" wheels severely limit brake size.  I can cram a tiny BBK under the 17" Enkeis, but the final form of this car will likely have 18's both for aesthetics and performance
3. Cooling - this is a major one...I have no oil cooler right now, and the Samberg cooling system does not provide enough cooling capacity for the car.  In my opinion, that is both cooling power, and water capacity. Also, when the car heat soaks it does not have a large enough reservoir to capture the water and it pushes it out the tank onto the ground.
4. Heat Soak - This is a big ass engine in a tiny space.  I need a vented hood.  I want to scoot style hood with the front vent sealed off. Baby viper doo doo dooo do do.
5. Oil Pressure - So with driving the car full time on slicks...both cornering and accelerating in a straight line I've seen dips in oil pressure.  I'm not really sure how I've kept from spinning a bearing as I think this happens much more often than I realize.  The car needs a larger oil reservoir, and a more reliable pickup.  I have the improved racing baffle right now and it just isn't enough.
6. Fuel pressure - I've gone through a number of fuel pump pickups and still even with a hydramat have fuel starvation issues.  Putting the full slick on the car didn't help.  I went to install a Hyperion baffle the other day and noticed fuel seeping up past my wiring harness.  I think it is time to breakdown and order an in-tank surge tank before I actually break something.
7. Not urgent, but it needs reverse fixed.  I'm tempted to faceplate the trans.  I'm an idiot.  I also want to fix my leaking shifter.

What does it not need?  More power.

What am I doing?  Yeah...building an engine.  I started about 1.5 years ago collecting LS7 parts and am slowly working toward completing it.

It will be an 8000 rpm solid roller cam dry sumped 428" LS7 that will require re-engineering the entire cooling system and will add 150+ horsepower over my current stroker.  I have almost all the hard parts I need minus an EFI and a dry sump.  What I need more than anything is time to work on it.

Motivation is to take the car as it sits to Texas Mile and run 200 mph.  It has been a bucket list item for the last 10 years and was a huge inspiration when I was building the car.  Mark (GNX7) took his with his buddies and ran 194 and 196 mph.  I don't know if I'll crack 200 in street trim, but it'll get close.




Offline Supe

Re: 403 LS2 FD - I'm back! T56 Magnum and Cobra 8.8 swap in process
« Reply #628 on: November 21, 2019, 02:03:57 PM »
If you properly duct the radiator/hood, you may find that the cooling issues aren't as bad as you think!

Good call on the dry sump.  My accusump setup saved my old bottom end, but was still marginal at best without even pushing the car hard (I had no brakes, company that engineered them made a bad call on master size, whoops).  I went Peterson - Pat Haberkorn is a really good guy to work with, sent me drawings as I needed them, etc.

Curious as to where the hydramat was failing, as I'm about to put one in my cell.  Do you think that the hydramat was becoming uncovered due to tank shape/configuration?

If you like the RC1's, you may want to give NT01's a try.  Very similar, but I found the NT01's to be the more consistent tire over its lifespan.  The Maxxis for me would give crazy grip on the sticker laps, but then drop off to about 80% or so after a few cycles.  I think NT01's get better until they cord.

Offline MPbdy

Re: 403 LS2 FD - I'm back! T56 Magnum and Cobra 8.8 swap in process
« Reply #629 on: November 21, 2019, 02:19:56 PM »
If you properly duct the radiator/hood, you may find that the cooling issues aren't as bad as you think!

Good call on the dry sump.  My accusump setup saved my old bottom end, but was still marginal at best without even pushing the car hard (I had no brakes, company that engineered them made a bad call on master size, whoops).  I went Peterson - Pat Haberkorn is a really good guy to work with, sent me drawings as I needed them, etc.

Curious as to where the hydramat was failing, as I'm about to put one in my cell.  Do you think that the hydramat was becoming uncovered due to tank shape/configuration?

If you like the RC1's, you may want to give NT01's a try.  Very similar, but I found the NT01's to be the more consistent tire over its lifespan.  The Maxxis for me would give crazy grip on the sticker laps, but then drop off to about 80% or so after a few cycles.  I think NT01's get better until they cord.

So, I crammed a hydramat into the stock tank...bucket and everything.  As I was ramming the comically large pickup through a tiny access hole in the tank I laughed to myself and thought "this will never work."  In a fuel cell I bet it works wonderfully.  With a better installation effort in the stock tank it would probably work as well.  I'm tired of dealing with the issue, and with a 13+:1 compression engine that I can't afford to break coming up I need reliable fueling.  My issue is really more straight line acceleration than turns.  A sudden 1st or 2nd gear rip will send the fuel in the tank flying away from the pickup.

I've had R888's which I know are very similar to the Nittos.  Always considered NT01, but the RC1 are such a phenomenal street tire I don't think I'll ever switch away from them unless I need some tread on the tires.  They're dead silent, smooth, balanced well, and have good grip.  On the track there are likely better options, but I really just use this thing 99% of the time to hammer around on the street and occasional canyon runs.

Ducting the rad...the Samberg setup is about as well ducted as you can hope for I believe, unless I am completely missing something.  I think my primary issue is lacking an oil cooler, and with heatsoak the unvented hood.  I do think the overflow and expansion tank need to be larger.  If I kept the oil at a lower temperature the whole engine would run cooler.  We'll see..I need to stand the radiator up in the front like the turbo guys do to fit a drysump tank, so I'm redoing it anyway.