March 15, 2025, 10:47:53 AM

Author Topic: 403 LS2 FD - LS7 Build for 2020!  (Read 278767 times)

Offline MPbdy

Re: 403 LS2 FD - LS7 Build for 2020!
« Reply #900 on: June 27, 2020, 03:06:34 PM »
I have a cable parking brake now with a in-the-hat drum setup on it.    It works fine but it's not something you'd use to hold the car at the drag strip.     You'd want a hydraulic setup for that, like a drift brake.   My parking brake is dialed in but I can definitely over-whelm if it I really try to.

FWIW (since we're full squirrel) I'm considering something like the Tesla setup (I had previously looked at an electronic actuator that does the handle job, but the Tesla setup is cleaner) and then putting a drift brake hydraulic handle with an inline master on the rear calipers.   Then I have a parking brake for parking and a hydraulic over-ride for the rears in case I need it.   I feel like that gets every feature possible, and using an electronic setup means I keep a "real" parking brake without needing 2x levers.

Okay, definitely probably done meandering about...

I’ve wondered why drift setups are dual caliper and not just tapping into the existing rear caliper. Couldn’t a one way valve and a T handle the logic?

An in hat setup would be great but the FD isn’t built around one. The rear hub and upright assembly is all wrong for it.

Offline MPbdy

Re: 403 LS2 FD - LS7 Build for 2020!
« Reply #901 on: June 27, 2020, 03:09:58 PM »
An old fashioned handbrake is far better for hill starts and holding the car at the drag strip, another alternative would be a disc with a drum as part of the hat such as used on the old Toyota Supra and others.

I’ve used the hand brake at the drag strip but never on hill starts I just jump to the gas pedal.

Neat idea Exidous for the gyro sensor. That’d be a nice modern twist. Hill hold assist is done with the ABS pump on modern cars primarily.

Offline MPbdy

Re: 403 LS2 FD - LS7 Build for 2020!
« Reply #902 on: August 13, 2020, 05:37:10 PM »
Been a little slow on the updates recently.  Not a lot going on, and I kind of got distracted again lol.  After getting the car together and messing around with it a bit I really haven't been driving it.  I think it sat in the garage unmobile for the last month+.  Pretty tired of driving the roads around here locally, and not really leaving the house at all...really missing races and meeting up with friends.  My local track Autoclub Speedway cancelled all racing for the year at the strip.  I'm actually worried they're not even going to re-open as a drag strip.  They're making so much money simply storing vehicles on the drag strip and there's no liability in that.

I did actually have a chance to race over the 4th of July weekend at Sonoma.  My dad an I double entered our wagon, and by the end of the weekend the cylinder head started leaking in the exhaust port due to the porosity in the port and is currently torn down with the cylinder head back at Frankenstein.  Super cool.  I managed to get down to 8 cars out of ~180 in the $20k to win race before losing a very tight one.  I honestly thought it was my day I was crushing it.

Brakes progress - everything is test fit and designed.  I just need to make billet brackets and order the rotors.  Just ran out of motivation to drop the few G's required to get it all done.  Other than that, looking very promising!  The rear bracket is pretty cool.  Very compact...barely gets on there.  Had to file down the ears on the upright and tap the thru hole for a bolt to thread into the bracket.  The rear bracket will need to be steel because of how tight it is, but will be stronger than the front in the end.





LS7 progress got a little stuck when I found the mains significantly out of round after the block had already been to the machine shop.  Probably the ARP studs causing it because the crank wouldn't last in there the way it was.  I measured the mains before it went and I have no idea how I missed the fact that some were .002 to .003" out of round.  No issue other than lost time.  The block went back to the machine shop and has since been align honed and now just sitting there waiting for my ass to get in gear.

On the days I do get up to my dad's we've mostly been putting in work on the Fiat which is now ready to run.  Hopefully in the next 1-2 months we can hit a test day with it.  Everything refreshed/rebuilt, new tires...ready to go.  454 BBC topped with eight 2.900" butterflies with mechanically injected methanol!  Should be a blast.



Out of complete and total boredom I've taken the FD apart to swap cams lol.  It isn't that bad of a job and I'm enjoying just wrenching on it.  I realized it wouldn't cost me anything other than time and some gaskets since I already had the cam on the shelf.

Swapping in a 242/250 on 114 from a 226/242 on 117.  18 degrees more overlap, more duration and slightly more lift.  Yeehaw.  With exhaust manifolds it never made much sense to throw a big cam in.  Now with longtubes and no cats I can take advantage of the scavenging.  Should be terribly obnoxious but lots of fun.

I may have uhmmm...also deleted my HVAC.  I'll take "Decisions You'll Regret" for $600 please Alex! 

With the ls7 I wasn't planning on running AC since I'll have an external oil pump where the AC compressor goes.  When I drove it last the AC didn't work, and a good 50% of the fittings including the AC compressor itself are covered in oil from leaking.  I've re-charged this system so many times and it has so much stop leak in it I'm really just fed up.  I need to take a serious look at all the lines and the compressor and see what is salvageable and what needs to be re-made. 

Also I made a joke about my rotary cam going flat, and turns out the old cam had failing heat treat on one lobe and was chunking some metal off...so go me I guess.





I'm a good 3-4 hours away from firing the thing back up.

Other exciting news, I finally took the plunge on a Holley system.  I've wanted a standalone for years, and I needed a 58x capable system for the ls7.  Talked myself down from a Dominator that I had spec'ed out before to the Termi X system.  Without the screen it is only $899 including the O2 sensor and harness which is just an outrageously good price for what you get.  Adapting the E40 ecu to the ls7 is doable, but would require a $700 NW DBW 102mm tb, and a $250 Lingenfelter converter box.  That adds up to more than the ECU...Other sensors and things I've purchased I'm probably ~$1800 into it which still isn't bad.  I already have the 7" Holley screen ready for it so I didn't need the little 3.5" unit.  I'll be converting to a cable throttle, and likely porting out my LS3 intake to work the 105mm Holley TB, or just running a 105 to 90mm adapter plate.

I think I'll actually get the LS2 running with the Termi X and then I will really just need to drop the LS7 in.  Doing this in stages has been a lot more fun and less overwhelming than trying to rebuild the entire car in one go.  It'll also hopefully prevent any major fuck-ups with the new engine since everything will be vetted out and ready to run.  The biggest thing is I can also do all this pre-ls7 work in my garage, but once the car goes for the engine swap it is stuck at my dad's until it is running again.  Judging by how little I've been up there to work on the engine the car would've never moved again lol.

Excited to play around with the new cam, and all the fun features in the Holley.  Got a pressure switch coming for the clutch speed bleeder so I can program things off it like a 2 step and no lift shift.  I also have a flex fuel sensor to go in, and new injectors for the ls7 that can handle 100% E85 if I want to run that high.  I'll also be installing a Meziere EWP which can be controlled by the Holley, and the fans too.  I'm looking forward to being able to better manage heat soak by running the cooling system independently.




Offline kinger

Re: 403 LS2 FD - LS7 Build for 2020!
« Reply #903 on: August 14, 2020, 04:29:34 PM »
Crazy cool update!!  I should cam swap mine and get the 30-40whp it should make back.  Interesting on the holley that is a well priced ECU system for sure!
93 Touring, 6.3L, T56 Magnum, Mamo RPS BC2 clutch, FAST 90, NW 90TB TB, 8.8, samberg everything, AC, PS, TC, Cruise, LED Tails, HID head lights

Offline freeskier7791

Re: 403 LS2 FD - LS7 Build for 2020!
« Reply #904 on: August 15, 2020, 10:53:33 AM »
I’ve wondered why drift setups are dual caliper and not just tapping into the existing rear caliper. Couldn’t a one way valve and a T handle the logic?

An in hat setup would be great but the FD isn’t built around one. The rear hub and upright assembly is all wrong for it.

It probably would work, but just one more thing to fail on a competition car, so I am sure that is why they run 2 seperate circuits.  I have an inline set up and it works great unless you really want to left foot brake at the same time you are pulling the handbrake.

In the offroad trucks I have worked on, they run an inline setup and with a pedal box the front and rear circuits are already seperate
https://www.youtube.com/thedriftingdad
1985 Mazda RX7 GSL Drift Car

CCVT

Offline Cobranut

Re: 403 LS2 FD - LS7 Build for 2020!
« Reply #905 on: August 15, 2020, 12:22:24 PM »
I’ve wondered why drift setups are dual caliper and not just tapping into the existing rear caliper. Couldn’t a one way valve and a T handle the logic?

An in hat setup would be great but the FD isn’t built around one. The rear hub and upright assembly is all wrong for it.

It probably would work, but just one more thing to fail on a competition car, so I am sure that is why they run 2 seperate circuits.  I have an inline set up and it works great unless you really want to left foot brake at the same time you are pulling the handbrake.

In the offroad trucks I have worked on, they run an inline setup and with a pedal box the front and rear circuits are already seperate

Not sure how you could use a check valve for that purpose.
Brake fluid needs to flow both ways.  The hand brake would have to cut off the path to the main master cylinder and pressurize the rear calipers, then open the normal path back up when released.
I'm sure those setups use a specific master cylinder with that capability.
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.

Offline MPbdy

Re: 403 LS2 FD - LS7 Build for 2020!
« Reply #906 on: August 15, 2020, 09:33:45 PM »
I dig it.


Offline largeorangefont

Re: 403 LS2 FD - LS7 Build for 2020!
« Reply #907 on: August 16, 2020, 03:36:55 PM »
Well that is unpumping believable.

I know you’ll be driving that off the Terminator X, will it be timed based or PWM, or can you do both?
Quote from: cool
Sell it to spacevomit.  He'll finish it.

Offline MPbdy

Re: 403 LS2 FD - LS7 Build for 2020!
« Reply #908 on: August 16, 2020, 08:05:41 PM »
Lol nice one.

Right now I just wired it into the relay that feeds the coil packs. I’m not running a high dwell time or anything so the 75A relay has plenty of headroom.

Definitely want to use one of the Termi X outputs to control it though I can put a switch on the touchscreen to turn it off and on. Also need to read up on how to keep water circulating after I turn the ignition off like a turbo timer kinda deal. 2-3 minutes of water flow would really help with heat soak.

The pump had a thermostat so I won’t get too fancy with PWM although I think it can do it.

Got the car fired up this morning before having to head out for the afternoon. Won’t idle without my foot in it, but good oil pressure and no weird noises. It definitely is louder and nastier sounding - couldn’t get any indication of an idle yet. Need to hook up the laptop and bump the idle and give it some more airflow.

The radiator shroud is touching the water pump pulley so I need to figure out a solution to that. Pretty annoying.

Offline MPbdy

Re: 403 LS2 FD - LS7 Build for 2020!
« Reply #909 on: August 16, 2020, 11:47:41 PM »
This thing is going to be nasty. Tweaked the tune enough to force the idle down. It wanted to idle at 1200-1400 the first couple times I flashed it lol. Still nowhere near a final tune.

It changed the sound of the engine quite a bit. A lot different induction noise. Sounds badass. I didn’t expect a bigger cam to take less idle airflow and have better throttle response but the thing is happy.

https://youtu.be/BHNtAkRp9Zc

Offline kinger

Re: 403 LS2 FD - LS7 Build for 2020!
« Reply #910 on: August 17, 2020, 09:59:36 AM »
Ahhhhhhhmazing!  That sound!!   8) :drive:
93 Touring, 6.3L, T56 Magnum, Mamo RPS BC2 clutch, FAST 90, NW 90TB TB, 8.8, samberg everything, AC, PS, TC, Cruise, LED Tails, HID head lights

Offline wickedrx7

Re: 403 LS2 FD - LS7 Build for 2020!
« Reply #911 on: August 17, 2020, 10:07:32 AM »
That sounds mean!

1993 Touring, 2012 L99, T-56, Ronnin 8.8, Ohlins, Speedhut, Samberg and lots of custom parts
Build Thread - http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=19354.0
Pictures - www.flikr.com/wickedrx7

Offline MPbdy

Re: 403 LS2 FD - LS7 Build for 2020!
« Reply #912 on: August 17, 2020, 12:30:07 PM »
Can’t wait to get it dialed in properly! It sure does sound good.

Offline MPbdy

Re: 403 LS2 FD - LS7 Build for 2020!
« Reply #913 on: August 17, 2020, 07:15:07 PM »
Ooooooooo yea.  Now the struggle - do I tune it some and drive it with the cam, or tear it apart again? lol


Offline digitalsolo

Re: 403 LS2 FD - LS7 Build for 2020!
« Reply #914 on: August 17, 2020, 11:43:32 PM »
Fancy parts!
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...
2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Gen V LT4/TR6060, upper/lower pullies, headers, tune.
2021 Tesla Model 3 Performance - Stock...ish.