LOF's LS1 FC track car build

[freeskier7791]

that boat is very yellow.  have fun at the track day

[largeorangefont]

Track day tomorrow. I’ll get some pics and updates.

I put a small 2500 lb Harbor Freight winch in the enclosed trailer yesterday. That is bar none the best $70 I’ve ever spent. What was once a 10 minute acrobatic fiasco getting in and out of the car in the trailer without denting or scratching the driver side door trailer is now a one man, 2 minute job.

[Cobranut]

Track day tomorrow. I’ll get some pics and updates.

I put a small 2500 lb Harbor Freight winch in the enclosed trailer yesterday. That is bar none the best $70 I’ve ever spent. What was once a 10 minute acrobatic fiasco getting in and out of the car in the trailer without denting or scratching the driver side door trailer is now a one man, 2 minute job.

Awesome, glad it worked well.
Did you get one with the wireless remote?

[largeorangefont]

Hello friends and colleagues!

I actually did a bit of work to the car, new tires, new brakes, all fresh fluids and will be heading out to the Las Vegas Motor Speedway Road Course again Sat. The last outing was OK, but the car was slow because the tires were beyond worn out. At least I had some fun and learned the track.

I will also be taking the car on the Hot Rod Power Tour West. So I am going to add a couple things to make road tripping a little nicer. That will be a project for next month, but i will be adding cupholders, A fan under the dash plumbed to the door vents, and an intercom and headsets to talk to my codriver and listen to music.

[digitalsolo]

an intercom and headsets to talk to my codriver and listen to music.

Signs your racecar is loud.  Hahaha

[largeorangefont]

an intercom and headsets to talk to my codriver and listen to music.

Signs your racecar is loud.  Hahaha

That… and cheaper than a head unit, speakers, carpet, etc. 😂

[shainiac]

What's your current brake setup?

[largeorangefont]

What's your current brake setup?

Ronin Mandeville front brakes. Hawk DTC 60 pads
Stock rear, Hawk DTC 30 pads.
929 non ABS Master and booster.

It’s actually been OK but I need to try a pad with more initial bite. I am
always worried in the back of my mind I’m going to lock up a wheel under braking. I lose time there.

I’m going to go to FD rear rotors probably next month. I need to find a shop to machine the hubs. And it’s probably time for new rear wheel bearings anyway.

[Bowtie7]

Machining the hubs should be no issue for any machine shop. I noticed something recently on my car that the Efini rear rotor does not ride concentrically on the hub. I got some hubcentric spacers to fix the issue and noticed how much smoother the car is at speed on interstate. I've run this setup for a long time and just noticed the issue. I'm running Brembo F40 calipers and floating rotors in front with FD booster and 929 master. Brakes are amazing but i want to make them more amazinger so am going to try the adjustable vacuum valve that Sakebomb is selling.

[shainiac]

I have the Performance MRP kit for the front and rear of FC. The rear is designed to use FD rotors. My issue with the rear kit is it rotates the caliper up and can damage the e-brake cable. I ruined both cables before notching the frame rail lip. Their front kit requires a bunch of caliper grinding to fit 13" Evo rear rotors. They're stock thickness and have less thermal mass than the Mandeville kit.

[largeorangefont]

Machining the hubs should be no issue for any machine shop. I noticed something recently on my car that the Efini rear rotor does not ride concentrically on the hub. I got some hubcentric spacers to fix the issue and noticed how much smoother the car is at speed on interstate. I've run this setup for a long time and just noticed the issue. I'm running Brembo F40 calipers and floating rotors in front with FD booster and 929 master. Brakes are amazing but i want to make them more amazinger so am going to try the adjustable vacuum valve that Sakebomb is selling.

Thanks for that Charlie. Maybe this knowledge leaked out of my brain, but the Efini rotor and the standard FD rotor would have that same issue, correct?

I was going to use SN95 Mustang Cobra rear rotors and make my own bracket but I got lazy and went the FD route because those also would need a hub centric ring and the bracket already exists for $80.

I might have to look into this adjustable vacuum valve.

[largeorangefont]

I have the Performance MRP kit for the front and rear of FC. The rear is designed to use FD rotors. My issue with the rear kit is it rotates the caliper up and can damage the e-brake cable. I ruined both cables before notching the frame rail lip. Their front kit requires a bunch of caliper grinding to fit 13" Evo rear rotors. They're stock thickness and have less thermal mass than the Mandeville kit.

Thanks for that tip. I have the MRP rear kit as well. Did your rotors fit without modifications to the rear hubs?

[shainiac]

The rear rotors did fit fine, but the rotor hub ID was larger than the FC hub IIRC. I had a set of aluminum hubcentric spacers from another project that just happened to work.
I had made a caliper bracket that uses 13.8" 2012-13 GT500 rear rotors. They're stock thickness, but nearly 3" larger and don't place the caliper higher or lower, just further outboard.

[jwvand02]

I have the Performance MRP kit for the front and rear of FC. The rear is designed to use FD rotors. My issue with the rear kit is it rotates the caliper up and can damage the e-brake cable. I ruined both cables before notching the frame rail lip. Their front kit requires a bunch of caliper grinding to fit 13" Evo rear rotors. They're stock thickness and have less thermal mass than the Mandeville kit.

Thanks for that tip. I have the MRP rear kit as well. Did your rotors fit without modifications to the rear hubs?

The MRP kit required grinding a decent amount of material off of each "ear" of the rear hub on my car. I did it with an angle grinder - obviously that's not ideal from a balance standpoint but I had no issues on track.

I would highly recommend helicoiling the threaded holes in the MRP brackets before you install them. The brackets are thin so there's only a few threads and they're just not strong enough in aluminum.

The other thing to be aware of is the e-brake cable will interfere with the body if you try to do the brakes just by removing the slide bolt, so you have to remove one of the mounting bolts and the caliper slide bolt to finagle the pads in.

[shainiac]

Here's a picture of where my cable got damaged. The car's not super low, but has fairly soft rear suspension.

I didn't have to grind the hubs because I have Ronin's Grande axles/hubs.