LOF's LS1 FC track car build

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The rear rotors did fit fine, but the rotor hub ID was larger than the FC hub IIRC. I had a set of aluminum hubcentric spacers from another project that just happened to work.
I had made a caliper bracket that uses 13.8" 2012-13 GT500 rear rotors. They're stock thickness, but nearly 3" larger and don't place the caliper higher or lower, just further outboard.

This is what I was planning to do myself, just not with that large of a Mustang rotor lol. It seems like I just should have gone this route to begin with if I will still need some hubcentric spacers and other tweaks to get this dialed in properly. Ugh.

Thank you for the tips gentlemen.

[shainiac]

The Mustang brakes have an ID of 70.5mm and I believe the FC hubs are 66mm. I bought some eBay 66.6mm to 70.6mm hub rings for like $10 and they worked great. IIRC, the FD rotors are something like 72mm ID.

The Mustang rotors have 19mm less offset than FC rotors, so I was able to use 3/4" plate for my adapter brackets. The FC caliper brackets needed a bit of grinding, but not bad.
I drew up a bracket for the smaller 300mm Mustang rotors, but the're not large enough to move the caliper straight out. It has to move out and up like MRP's kit.
If you're interested, I can share the DXF for the GT500 bracket. I had a local place water jet them 4 years ago. SendCutSend can't do 3/4" Al, but 4x 3/8" brackets is reasonably priced.

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The Mustang brakes have an ID of 70.5mm and I believe the FC hubs are 66mm. I bought some eBay 66.6mm to 70.6mm hub rings for like $10 and they worked great. IIRC, the FD rotors are something like 72mm ID.

The Mustang rotors have 19mm less offset than FC rotors, so I was able to use 3/4" plate for my adapter brackets. The FC caliper brackets needed a bit of grinding, but not bad.
I drew up a bracket for the smaller 300mm Mustang rotors, but the're not large enough to move the caliper straight out. It has to move out and up like MRP's kit.
If you're interested, I can share the DXF for the GT500 bracket. I had a local place water jet them 4 years ago. SendCutSend can't do 3/4" Al, but 4x 3/8" brackets is reasonably priced.

I was going to use the almost 12" 94-04 Cobra rear rotors. It fits better with my 350X front rotors, and are about the same thickness as FD rotors. I think the Cobra rotors even fit over the stock hubs. I had this all figured out at one point, I need to find my notes You are right though the bracket was going to be very similar to MRP, just a bit thicker. When I was looking to do this several years ago, the adapter rings did not seem to be a thing, so that is a major hurdle that I don't have to have custom made.

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Well due to some stupidity, I needed a new hood. I found an aluminum one in OK shape in So Cal so ran down to To grab it. It goes in for paint on Tuesday.

I took the opportunity to add the LRB hood vents I have had in stock for several years. I never really liked how much you had to cut the structure of the hood for these, that is why I never installed them. So I modified the LRB vents. I shortened them so you do not have to cut any extra structure out of the hood, and slid the shorter vents forward.

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Also since I am doing Hot Rod Power Tour West in 3 weeks, I added a blower fan for air circulation and also an intercom so my buddy and I doing the Power Tour can talk and listen to music with headsets.

The fan blower is a 3 speed SPAL unit, mounted behind the center stack, where the radio would have been. It is plumbed to 2 inch ducts that run to the existing door vents. Below is the blower on the bench for testing before I put it in the car. It works decent for a little air movement in the car.

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Well the car was finished. Then it got backed into by a semi on the way to Hot Rod Power Tour north of Las Vegas. Damage isn’t too bad. Hood and nose cone needs a repaint, and upper core support needs to be straightened as the car has an overbite.

After another 80 miles down into CA cars started smoking and was leaking trans fluid. I towed the car back home, thinking it was the tail shaft seal or vent. We took my friends 2013 Mustang GT instead. It ended up being the shifter coming loose.  Anyway. That’s fixed now. I think I’ll fix the core support myself and have the hood and bumper painted.

Here’s the car with the updated hood with modified LRB hood vents, the damage, and the intercom and car to car radio setup I put in to talk to our friends on the road. I added some cupholders to make the car more road trip friendly. Also put another inch of foam in the Kirkey seats.

[Cobranut]

Damn, sorry to hear about the damage. Glad it wasn't worse.

I'm sure the Mustang was a bit more comfortable though. 

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Ok I got the car all fixed up and finally put the Dorman intake and Holley 90mm throttle body on the car.

If anyone is putting a Dorman LS2 intake on, it’s a bit of a fiasco.. but it fits and works. You can hack up the firewall a lot  for clearance, but I close to lightly modify the firewall lip and notch the back of the intake to fit around it, relocate the MAP sensor back there, and it packaged pretty well. I used a Motion Raceworks adjustable throttle cable and mount, the OE throttle cable bracket and cable was not going to work well with the Holley TB. I had to clearance the bottom of the TB, intake mouth and water pump to get everything to clear.

You can see the notch I cut in the pics below. I was going to remote mount the MAP sensor, but I ended up removing the brass elbow and mounting the MAP sensor in that hole. I used JB Weld Plastic Bonder to secure the aluminum into place. It sits in some notches I made, so even if the JB Weld failed, the aluminum pieces can’t fall into the manifold.


I threw all that on and then went to LSFest West in Vegas and happened to run into @V8-rx7 Anthony. That was a cool surprise, I haven’t seen him in about 5 years. He was in a loaner Corvette Z06 I did the AutoX on street tires since I drove the car 90 miles there with my dad to road test everything. The car did well. I’m going to be more serious about the Autox next year.

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In other news I also picked up a 2001 C5 6 speed as a daily. I have been de-boomering it, and got it where I want it for the most part. It is just something to cruise around and be comfortable on the road in. It still gets 30MPG+ when I have to drive to So Cal or Vegas for work.

Plan is to keep the engine mostly stock. I’m putting a C6 z06 intake on it and converting it to the card style MAF, and it has a Borla axle back that sounds nice and does not drone.

Lowered it on stock bolts with new Bilstein shocks and 18/19 Apex wheels and new tires. I also put in a modern double din stereo, and MGW shifter. I did all new LED lights throughout the car as well to make it look a little more modern on the road.

[digitalsolo]

Nice C5.   They seem like a great bang for the buck car at this point.

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Nice C5.   They seem like a great bang for the buck car at this point.

Thanks! They really are a great bang for the buck right now, especially if you can handle little DIY projects here and there. All of the dumb problems are well documented and the fixes are known, For the most part, the parts and restoration parts are really cheap.

It is well known that the seats suck for performance driving (mostly because it is all leather and you just slide off the seat in a hard corner), but they are really comfortable for cruising. I'm putting new bottom seat foams in next week, they were $75 each, and doing some seat frame upgrades while I'm in there. If you can handle stuff like that they are pretty good cars.

The entire center dash panel needed to be swapped for the new radio.. That was $50 on Amazon, $250 for the head unit, $70 for the convertor to use the factory Bose speakers, and I added a $100 backup camera.. A $500 project, and its like a modern car now.

If anyone is looking, ideally you want an 01 to mid 03. If you find a nice care, they are all ok, the 2000 and older cars have unrepairable ABS modules that sometimes go out, and some other older electronics.

[FC3S Murray]

Looks good man.


I really want a C6Z but they are hyper inflated now.

I really enjoyed tuning my brother's '03 Z, if I had a long commute daily, I would consider one.


Other than the color, it was extremely comfortable, sounded nasty and had decent get up (TEA heads, longtubes)

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Looks good man.


I really want a C6Z but they are hyper inflated now.

I really enjoyed tuning my brother's '03 Z, if I had a long commute daily, I would consider one.


Other than the color, it was extremely comfortable, sounded nasty and had decent get up (TEA heads, longtubes)

Thanks! Aside from being hyper aware of road debris and steep entry/exits it is a good travel or commuting car. We just drove it back and forth to Vegas a couple days ago and my wife is even starting to come around. Everyone else loves the car but her

My brother picked up a pretty nice 08 c6z about 6 months ago with the heads fixed, cam, headers and intake with 40k miles for $42k. These things have been in the $40s for 15 years now. I’ve seen the prices trending up on them a bit, but decent ones are still out there for good prices. I don’t know if the prices will get much lower than low $40s ever for nice low mileage ones.

My bother put on the Forgestars and just did an MSD intake manifold and Haltech intake.

I’m taking his old K&N intake and switching my car over to the slot style MAF.

[MPbdy]

That's so cool you ran into Anthony!  Love that you're still out there ripping the car.

I'm digging the white C5!  My buddy and I both miss ours sometimes.  My old yellow one was absolutely perfect when I sold it.  I also love that orange color on the C6Z's.  A c6z is probably one of the best purchases you can make today for 35-45k.  I don't think they'll ever be worth less, and strong chance of going up in value.