LOF's LS1 FC track car build

[digitalsolo]

That looks really, really good!    Nice work on the touchups!

[largeorangefont]

Thanks guys. Here are a couple pictures of the car out of the garage.

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[Cobranut]

Looks AWESOME!!!

That settles it, this is the color for my Pro-Challenge Mustang. 

I'm also going to add a pair of LeMans stripes down the center.  Do you think white or black stripes would look better?

[largeorangefont]

Looks AWESOME!!!

That settles it, this is the color for my Pro-Challenge Mustang. 

I'm also going to add a pair of LeMans stripes down the center.  Do you think white or black stripes would look better?

Thanks!

I think black looks better. I was/am considering some black fender stripes like the Camaro/Corvettes have.

I thought about painting the taillights orange too, but like the satin black..kind of a throwback to the big block GM muscle cars. A 5.7 is a big block compared to a 1.3 right?

[AKINA FC]

Turned out great LOF, nice work. 

[Cobranut]

Looks AWESOME!!!

That settles it, this is the color for my Pro-Challenge Mustang. 

I'm also going to add a pair of LeMans stripes down the center.  Do you think white or black stripes would look better?

Thanks!

I think black looks better. I was/am considering some black fender stripes like the Camaro/Corvettes have.

I thought about painting the taillights orange too, but like the satin black..kind of a throwback to the big block GM muscle cars. A 5.7 is a big block compared to a 1.3 right?

Thanks, I was leaning towards black and Orange anyway.  Should look good with basic black wheels too.
I hope I can find some light and fairly cheap 15x8 alloys for it, but could always go with steel stock car style wheels as well.

[largeorangefont]

Turned out great LOF, nice work. 

Thanks!!

[frijolee]

Looks great Ash.  I think some fender stripes could be great.  Like this?

[largeorangefont]

Final start up last week with the old T56.

http://youtu.be/bnPFEk2HoYc

Got the new T56 Magnum F ready to go in tomorrow. I had to shorten the driveshaft 1 1/8 inches. This was due to needing a different 2 piece trans yoke for the 8.8 conversion. I am running 1310 U joints and the small mustang pinion yoke. Those that went 1350 joints from the start, probably can reuse their driveshaft as is.

Since the Magnums are all 30 spline, you need a different trans yoke if you run 1310 joints. Inland Empire Driveline makes a really nice forged 2 piece 30 spline yoke for 1350 U joints. This thing is much bigger than my old iron 1310 yoke, and weighs about the same. part number is SY-C6-1350Q

From there I needed a 1350 to 1310 conversion joint. After getting the conversion U joint home it was obvious I needed to shorten the driveshaft as the new forged yoke is physically longer than the old one.

Anyway, The trans is prepped, and I will throw it in tomorrow. One nice thing about the Magnum F - I was not able to wire up reverse lights before, as the plug on the trans was nearly against the trans tunnel. The Magnum F has a wired dongle instead of a plug sticking directly out of the trans, so I can wire up reverse lights if I wanted.

[MPbdy]

Sweet man!  I keep seeing these things around and it has me thinking about swapping even though I already have a magnum.  I figure I could get most of my money back selling the magnum used.

The magnum is a sweet piece.  Way better both performance wise and quality of life.  Loves to be shifted fast.

[largeorangefont]

Yea the thing shifts like butter sitting dry on the ground with no stick lol. The stick I have won’t work with the Tremec shifter that came with it, so I am putting my OE Hurst SS/WS6 shifter on it. Still feels like it shifts great, the centering spring on my Hurst shifter is way stiffer than the Tremec shifter it came with. I’m used to the Hurst shifter and don’t think I ever missed a shift with it, so it should work fine.

Still a little tempted to just make the new Tremec shifter work with my stick, as it will be better for NVH, but who am I kidding, like I’d even notice in this thing.

I’ll have some pics tomorrow as the suffering begins getting this back in the car.

I’m just gonna put Redline D4 in it straight away.. any objections?

[MPbdy]

So Mark talks about a big change after break in. I didn’t notice any difference from mile 1 to 1000 and I used dino oil for break in and put redline in it after.

Non-synthetic is supposed to be better for break in, but all OEM’s are factory fill for 100k miles these days so I’m sure you’ll be fine.

[largeorangefont]

What oil did you use for break in - synchromesh? I may do that.

[shainiac]

The Inland Empire yoke is the nice piece. I'm using the same one and it makes removing the driveshaft easy. I did receive an out-of-spec unit first. The OD of the yoke was too large and was actually contacting the tailshaft bushing. I contacted Inland Empire and they got me a new one right away. If you haven't already, you may want to test fit the yoke to make sure it fits well.

[largeorangefont]

This one fits nicely, thanks for the heads up.