Replacing rear brake pads - not going well

[kinger]

I replaced all my rotors and pads and the Drivers rear is scrapping bad.  So I took it apart looking for anything but I noticed that the outboard side of the rotor its scraped up high with a 1/2" mark and the inboard bad is scratched down low about the same width.  Almost like the caliper is bolted on crooked and its tilted inboard not flush or something but I can't see anything wrong. 

Lastly the 2 - 17mm bolts are they the actual caliper bolts?  I removed the whole thing with the 2-14mm bolts.  However the 17mm almost act stripped out they seem to turn hard no matter what direction I turn, I thought they were some adjustment, are they supposed to be tight? 

[kinger]

Forgot the pict.


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[MPbdy]

Take a big flathead to the 17mm bolts they're slide pins for the sliding caliper.  You have the threads all the way out and now just need to pull the pins out.

The 14mm bolts hold it to the spindle, but for your job here you want to take the two pieces of the caliper apart.

You'll need to screw in the piston to get everything back together with new pads.

[Exidous]

Also, if the caliper is a little sticky on getting the piston back in you'll really want the tool kit. You twist (thread) the piston back in.

[kinger]

I have the piston rotated back all the way, I bet those 17mm "pins" were not tight, I am replacing all the pads and rotors because of this same brake wearing a groove in the rotors.  If those were not tight maybe the pad sat crooked in there? 

Thanks for the help, never seen "twist in" pistons before. 

[jwvand02]

I think you've probably figured it out, but just in case...

Not sure if the FD is the same but on the FC there is a little nub on the brake pad, and that nub has to sit inside a recess on the piston. Not realizing that caused massive pad taper/scraping on my car not too long ago.

[kinger]

I think you've probably figured it out, but just in case...

Not sure if the FD is the same but on the FC there is a little nub on the brake pad, and that nub has to sit inside a recess on the piston. Not realizing that caused massive pad taper/scraping on my car not too long ago.

I didn't notice this but I will look closer.  Thanks!!

[Exidous]

Oh ya, piston slots need to be vertical from hub.

I'm pretty certain FD calipers are the same as the T2 rear. Still unobtanium.

[kinger]

Oh ya, piston slots need to be vertical from hub.

I'm pretty certain FD calipers are the same as the T2 rear. Still unobtanium.

Hmm this may be my problem...I will confirm tonight, thanks for the tips!

Unobtanium meaning they are no longer available anywhere?  Mine seem to be in good shape just not sure how the pads can be that crooked to cause those wear marks. 

[Exidous]

No one really has a source for them anymore.

I'd verify the slots in the piston. Should be up and down.

[kinger]

Oh ya, piston slots need to be vertical from hub.

This was my problem, had the piston in crooked a little on the back side, aligned it and boom done.  Took for a rip and bed them in nice! 

Thanks boys!  Really appreciate the help!!