Camber/caster bolt issues

[Gunnytron]

I am currently at the alignment shop and they are struggling to get the car setup.

On the left side the eccentric bolt is hard to turn and when it gets to a certain point it rides out of the grooves. Struggling to think what the issue could be. Subframe issue?

Any ideas?

[tai-lun]

I had a similar issue on my Samberg subframe, the adjustment got harder and harder until finally one of the brace "C" parts broke on the weld. I think part of it is that the subframe paint plus heat, outside metal friction after time just gets too hard to move freely with dirt, paint, debris and everything fighting the hopefully not too old bushing between in the box for the lower arm. With some lubrication we got the alignment to get back into a decent place for track/autocross, I don't know how many others had the same snap, but I had this similar "tight" alignment for about two years before it finally broke.

I replaced mine with a Ronin unit and really dig the fully enclosed design, but if you can/have time you could reinforce the welds and get a bit more grease on the bushing ends to help out in the re-installation. Mine broke while I was on OEM bushings, original ones so I am sure that helped in creating the stiff and difficult alignments plus pushing on the road course.

[Gunnytron]

I will have to take it apart, take measurements and compare it to the other side as that is fine.

I am starting to expect that the slotted holes in the subframe are not in the correct place relative to the welded tabs, therefore causing binding.

[Gunnytron]

Just got under the car and had a play around and think I have found the issue. Well I think it is a combination of issues really.

I took the adjustment bolt out completely and moved the control arm and found that I was really struggling to get full movement. At each end the bush was binding a bit in the subframe. I loosened the front adjustment bolt and I could then get full range easily enough so I put the bolt back in and it was still slipping out of the frame.

Way back when I got the bolts welded up I wasn't very happy with the fact that the pieces were welded so the outside was flush rather than the inside. This particular one wasn't very straight either, maybe warped or not lined up straight when welded??

I swapped the bolt over for the one on the other side, tightened up the front bolt again and didn't have any issues with adjustment.

So I think a combination of the angle of the wishbone, the worn/wonky eccentric washer and the bolt angle caused by being at each of the extreme ends of adjustment, all worked in harmony to screw me over

I really wish I had my own welding gear now. I would probably just fill in the backside of all the washers then grind them down again. Or maybe try and cut them off then weld them back on so they were flush.

[flattop]

perhaps these would be helpful

https://jp3motorsports.com/products/copy-of-mazda-rx7-fd3s-eccentric-lower-control-arm-lock-washers-h-bolt?_pos=1&_sid=04742b74f&_ss=r

https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-product-dev-fd-rx-7-269/fd-eccentric-lock-washers-lca-camber-bolts-1144737/?ispreloading=1

[Gunnytron]

They only work on the stock subframe I believe.

[Exidous]

Whomever welded those caused your issue. They need to be redone to make them flush at the back.

[Gunnytron]

Whomever welded those caused your issue. They need to be redone to make them flush at the back.

I wish I had a welder, it would make life so much easier.

[Gunnytron]

It turns out that I can actually just flip all the washer around the other way. I will need to remake on of the slip on ones as the v that goes in to the groove on the bolt has pretty much disappeared.

[tai-lun]

Ah, yes the welder botched it which sucks... that is a mighty difference there, no wonder you where having alignment issues.

If there is a machine shop or a similar trade near you? It may be worth it to bring them the plates to just cut you some new ones out of a single piece so that you don't have to worry about it again.

[Gunnytron]

I've ordered some 50mm disks of stainless so I can make my own. Might take a while but will hopefully be a little stronger than the stock ones.

[Gunnytron]

Totally underestimated how tough the stainless would be. I can't even drill a hole through it.

Going to order mild steel instead.

[Exidous]

Stainless is very hard on bits, blades and abraisives. You have to keep it nice and cool.

[Cobranut]

Stainless is very hard on bits, blades and abraisives. You have to keep it nice and cool.

Yes, stainless work hardens.
The trick is to keep the bit cutting.  If the bit slides across the surface, it will quickly work harden the metal making it very difficult to cut.

[Gunnytron]

If i had a pillar drill it would make like a lot easier. Hopefully mild steel will be good enough.