Aston Martin V8 Vantage

[digitalsolo]

So, remember how I said I didn't see the point of a PDM on this chassis?

Well, I pretty much stole a PDM30.  To the point it would be rude to not use it.

[Venom13132]

well that's fancy!

[MPbdy]

All the race car goodies! That’s awesome.

[digitalsolo]

See, I like you guys because you say "that's awesome" instead of the reality of "that's overcomplicated, expensive and unnecessary, you big, dumb, idiot."



Also, did you know you need a special USB to CAN device to talk to the PDM, because MoTeC?   I didn't.   Did you know those are like 250 dollars.  I didn't.   

[Cobranut]

Damn, that's over-complicated, expensive and unnecessary, you big, dumb, idiot. 

[Exidous]

Same reason I don't touch ECUMaster. Such a dumb added expense for what? Because they couldn't bother adding a UART or worse, they wanted to make more money.

[digitalsolo]

I don’t mind the concept, but I own an ECUMaster USB to CAN as well as a Kvaser Leaf.   I am annoyed I can’t just use one of those to talk to it.

[digitalsolo]

Today was one of those days where you just want to throw some tools...

Finishing up the harness terminations and I had a bad pin (mis-manufactured) that wouldn't seat.   When I removed it from the wire, it tore the wire back a bit, which isn't great when everything is made basically to size exactly.  Put it on the car to see how much slack I had, and... well, crap, the driver side coil leads are all too short with the rest in place, I must have moved them slightly when I sealed the harness up.

Good news was that they were just routed wrong, so I had to remove all the connectors on that harness branch (that's lots of fun), cut the shrink back, move the wires where they should have been (each one was one "branch point" too far forward) then re-shrink it, reterminate the coil harness leads and reinstall all of the sensors.  Next up, oil pressure sensor.  Turns out the connector I bought was keyed wrong, but I still had the OEM connector, so again, depin factory connector, depin new connector, swap.   Not a big deal, but annoying.

Next on the list was the PCV bypass for the supercharger, to keep oil/crankcase fumes out of it.  The OEM one comes out with the water pump installed, but the replacement won't go in that way.  Fun.   So I had to pull the power steering pump to pull the water pump (which dumped a bunch of coolant on the floor) so that I could install it.  Then the fitting it came with was garbage.  Awesome.  So I'm going to just plug the bypass outlet port and use my big valve cover evac system.   Put the accessories back on and remembered I need to swap the OEM coolant sensor for a LowDoller combo temp/pressure sensor.  I can get the OEM one out with the power steering pump in... but I can't torque the replacement.  Power steering pump needs to come BACK out.

So, I'm calling it a day for today.  LOL

I did order the plug for the PCV bypass system, new knock sensor connector kits (the pins specified for my connectors were wrong and I don't feel like finding the right ones, so I'm just getting new connectors entirely) and a starter solenoid connector kit, because I totally forgot to order one when I bought the rest.  I also ordered some resistors I need to allow me to 12V switch a couple inputs on the Motec PDM since I need to use a 12V switch for at least the ignition "wake up" input, as well a 5 pin connector to terminate to the Motec "UTC - USB to CAN" connector.   They sell a connector kit for like 40 dollars, but I looked at it and it's clearly just 5 pin XLR, so I ordered a 2 pack for 7 dollars that should work just fine.

Anyway...

[digitalsolo]

MoTeC goodies (mostly) call came in:

[kinger]

HAHA you beat me to the FF quote.  Nice haul man! 

[Laminar]

[digitalsolo]

I will note, that I spent much, much less than 10K dollars on this kit, but retail on it all is about $11k, which is kind of crazy.

I'm hoping in the next few weeks I'll build a quick bench harness to spin up the ECU and PDM, and hopefully finish up the chassis wiring so that I can spin it up in the chassis properly.

[digitalsolo]

Got the Katech ported throttle body swapped in.   That was zero drama, as expected.   Won't make a huge difference, but it was cheap and I know removing intake restriction is critical on a blower.

I'm about halfway through swapping in the +30 injectors.  That's... fussy.  There are big nasty clips that hold the injectors in, and even once removed, they're really, really -IN- those rails.   Pulling them out, carefully, is not the easiest thing in the world.  Once those are done, I can put the blower back on and get back to sorting out the wiring harness.

Hoping to finish the above on Sunday (tournament tomorrow) and finish the last of the engine harness work (knock sensor sub harnesses, starter connector install) and then figure out where the PDM will live in the engine bay, and design a bracket for it and for the M142 ECU (will go in the fender like stock, probably), and also sort out where the wideband box will live (probably on the engine somewhere with a bracket).   Once the hardware is mounted, I can start building the rest of the harness, and then do my fuel system work.

Hopefully my axle shafts are done (again) soon, as those look easier to install with the suspension sitting on the floor. 

Planning to make an update video shortly, as well.

[Exidous]

What cam is in the engine and I assume you have all the injector characterizations.

I've been working at an engine machine shop as a CNC, 3d design, engine tuner and who knows what else. Anywho, we have an LSA that came in to be built and they were adamant we use a specific cam. 16° of overlap and on a 3.5in pulley only made 7psi when it should have made 15. Dude is quite annoyed and just said put a smaller pulley on it. We tried telling him the cam was way off about 6 times.

2650 Kong blower and some 118-120mm throttle body. I hope you can adjust the linear of the pedal blade relation. It's still on a stock ECU and is violent off idle.

[digitalsolo]

1.  It's a Tick "Stage 2" blower cam.
2.  They're modified OEM injectors, so in theory they're relatively close to stock overall.  That's the one area that will need some "messing with" to get dialed in I think.
3.  I have all of the cam profile info and the calculators to sort out the timings.
4.  Pump timing on the new cam is the same, so that should carry over with just a mod to the "displacement".

Profiling throttle curves and all that kind of stuff is super customizable, traction control and those types of things (controlling boost bypass, etc.) was a lot of why I wanted a stand alone.  OEM ECUs drive me nuts after years of having more control.  That's also why I never considered Holley, as I don't like how much they limit my ability to do whatever I want, particularly in the lower models.  Makes me angry.