Aston Martin V8 Vantage

[kinger]

LOL, KSV Looms is one of the places I buy a ton of stuff from.   I'm the opposite of you in that I don't want any of this stuff to come with harnesses, etc, as I want to make my own and use the specific pins/connectors/seals/etc. that I like.   For example, on the M142 I'm using solid pins (not stamped) and plastic backshell extensions for the connectors and 70* sealing boots to route the wires easily.   So if it came with connectors I'd have dumped everything but the plastic connector bodies anyway.   That's probably why they don't come with stuff.

Still, stark contrast from other stuff, for sure.

You do you man!  haha  I just assumed for $1500 you would get a connector for cry eye. 

I don't want to keep whoring my vids here but this was me using i2 which is what you will need for the Motec data logger.  Really cool system and I love the tabs at the top for specific things like Boost, Fuel, etc.  In this vid I talk about hitting 30+ PSI by accident but using that to show all the data captured.  ANNNNND check your damn boost solenoid polarity!!!  My god 2 years wasted because I had it on the wrong setting (I show this in the vid too) this may or may not apply in your new box. 

[digitalsolo]

Adding to the "while I'm in there" list...

Since I have to drop most of the drivetrain/suspension, I'm going to drop the rear subframe as well so that I can drop the tank.   I had done a "quick and dirty" solution for the fueling last year, but didn't really love it.   Since I'm going to delete the GM Fuel Pump Control Module, I have more pump options, and since I really like my Deatschwerks setup in the Mustang, I'm going to do similar.   I ordered a Deatschwerks 810 brushless with a 2 speed controller, so it's 450 LPH at low and 810 LPH at high (it will be slightly less at LT4 72 psi) and I'll use the Motec to switch high/low based on TPS + MAP.

My old setup had a single Hellcat pump, which was probably somewhat borderline for my needs, particularly at stock voltage.  So this will outflow that substantially.  I adapted the OEM Aston hoses with the venturi setup for drawing out of the secondary bucket in the tank and reused the OEM EVAP line as a return (OEM was returnless PWM).   I'm going to get rid of the stock output lines, put a Radium venturi pickup into the return line and then dump both returns into the pump bucket to keep it full and the pump as cool as possible.

I need to drop the tank to add the brushless wiring bulkhead, and I'll probably just drop some AN fittings onto it for the feed/return to get rid of the last bits of OEM fittings and any possible restriction.

Anyway, this should more than cover my needs.  I think the only "gotcha" at all will be a need to keep the tank with a fair amount of fuel in it to make sure it doesn't get too hot with the big pump/flow.  At least the brushless pumps stay a lot cooler than the big brushed ones do.  I think the +30% direct injectors, +32% pump cam and relatively huge return style feed setup should let me run my current setup on E85.  I also snagged a Katech ported TB as the OEM TB seems to be a pretty big restriction on the blower.

Wiring came in today, but I've gotta rewire a 2JZ Camaro before I build my harness, so the Aston will probably go under the knife in early/mid January.

[digitalsolo]

Snagged a few other items for the engine management redesign:

1. Motec 15 key keypad. It will be very helpful for things like launch control, traction control, etc. I love the one in the Mustang, and I'll hide this one in the console so it's not visible.  It's super handy to have a simple connection for whatever I want to control on the ECU.
2. Motec E888 - This is a CAN I/O Expander.  It's not strictly necessary, as I have just enough controls on the M142, but I found this one for a great price, and it'll let me split interior and engine bay I/O apart, and put less latency critical stuff on the expansion module.  Mostly this is me trying to plan ahead for the future in case I want to mess with stuff (because of course I will).
3. Motec LTCD (dual Lambda).  I ordered a pair of AEM sensors with the M142, but I found this controller for a steal, so I'll probably just drop this in instead, and resell the AEMs (and my Spartan3 ADV from the HP Tuners/OEM setup)

FWIW, I got all of that for less than retail on an E888, which is why I snagged it all even though it wasn't strictly necessary.   I'll build the loom with a few "future expansion" connectors in it when I assemble it and try to take care of "future Blake". 

[kinger]

FWIW, I got all of that for less than retail on an E888

That is a really good deal!  Used I assume?

[digitalsolo]

The E888 and LTCD are used, the keypad was new, but for some reason MUCH cheaper to get directly from Oz vs. ordering in the US.

[digitalsolo]

I'm basically finished with the 2JZ Camaro re-wire job (and a quick side quest to get a friend's LS3 BRZ running), so I can get to work on this.   In my "stuff prep" I did track down a few more things:

1. MoTeC 10Hz GPS.   These are 200 bucks normally and someone had one new in box for 50 bucks.   Do I need a GPS?  Probably not.  Is it neat?  Yep.
2. CanChecked MFD28.   I have been planning on some kind of display to get things like traction control status, launch control status, wideband O2s, flex percentage, etc. easy to see.   I wanted a MoTeC D153, but I'm not super interested in one for $2400, so I found the CanChecked MFD28.  I can hide it in a vent spot to keep it inconspicuous and program it to read the MoTeC CAN data.  I could make my own, but honestly, for the cost of one of these vs. the effort, I'm going to trade some money to save some time.   I am still planning to replace the dash "gear indicator" with an RGB shift light based on CAN data that I will make myself.

And, I (probably) have my plans for the "v2" build, which are:

1.  Axles that fit and don't fall off.   This seems like an important one.

2.  Drop fuel tank, build a less janky mount for my Deatschwerks 810LPH brushless pump.  Install a bulkhead fitting in tank for the pump.  Install bulkhead fuel line fittings to stop using the OEM fittings (and plug those).  Add a bulkhead fitting to the rear firewall in the tank area to pass through the wiring for the controller, which will go in (roughly) the OEM location.   Add Radium siphon kit to return line and convert internal pump lines to a return style siphon from the second pickup (currently has a siphon on the feed side for this).

3.  Get rid of the lower radiator 20AN fitting that I scarred up during install.  Convert radiator to an ORB fitting so that if I do that again later I don't ruin the radiator and just ruin one fitting.  Swap lower radiator fittings to Quick Connect style because screwing them in where they sit sucks and quick connect probably sucks less.

4.  Lower transmission by 1/8" (shorten mount "biscuits") as it's just a little too close to the floor.

5.  Install +30% injectors, ported throttle body and PCV blower bypass in the engine.

6.  Convert fuel pressure sensor to a LowDoller transceiver.  Add LowDoller coolant temp/pressure combo sensor.  Add LowDoller MAP for crankcase pressure.  Modify intake to delete GM MAF sensor (going Speed Density) and convert for GM screw-in IAT sensor.  Add oil temp sensor to dry sump tank.

6.  Build milspec concentric twisted harness for the engine.  Delete all extra engine wiring (AFM, VVT, etc.).  Convert chassis <-> engine harness connection to sealed MilSpec connectors.   Delete extra OEM wiring from engine bay.

7.  Install MoTeC M142/E888/LTCD/GPS/Keypad.  Setup/tune.

8.  Build "hidden" mount for CanChecked MFD28 display in driver side HVAC vent.  Hide keypad in center console.  Build CAN shift light for dash.   Figure out if I still need my CAN gateway to run the gauges or if I can make the M142 do it.

9.  Modify front shear/skid plate to allow me to change the oil without removing it because that job SUCKS.

10.  Install clear sidemarkers and clear bulb lights to match the tails.

I think that's most of it. Good news is I have all the parts for that in hand (minus the axles that are being made.  Again).  Probably find a few more things in the process.   I have a "v3" planned which is KW or Nitron coil-overs, interior roll bar, Cobra Nogaros with leather/matched stitching, later model side skirts and either new paint or a wrap.  Blue either way, I like blue.  I need to finish the mechanicals/electronics before I screw with interior/exterior though, so that's probably a winter 2025-2026 project.

[digitalsolo]

Progress.  Long, tedious progress.   Engine and chassis harness integrations are fully designed for endpoints/splices.   Once I drop the car down (Camaro is done, just waiting for good weather so he can come get it) I can measure for lengths.  Then I need to figure out layers and branches.  THEN I can start building the harness.  Good news is the harness is most of the work, fuel system is not terrible (I say now...) and the engine work is easy stuff.





I can share my Excel docs I use if anyone is interested.

[Exidous]

I'd take a look. My spreadsheet is a bit rough. Could always use ideas.

[kinger]

I wouldn't mind taking a peek, currently mapping out mine for the 8HP and LS7 with a Maxx

[digitalsolo]

Here's the link for the engine harness as an example:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1hZO5CNs6LuJKS3ungA63SSuMu7M8jl3f/edit?usp=drive_link&ouid=112687364516508832851&rtpof=true&sd=true

You may have to request access, if so I'll add you. 

[digitalsolo]

Question for the crew at large:  Sensors.  Am I forgetting anything I should be monitoring?   Here's what's planned so far:

Left/Right Bank Wideband (MoTeC LTCD, LSU 4.9)
Engine Coolant Temp (LowDoller)
Engine Coolant Pressure (LowDoller)
Oil Temp (Haltech/Universal)
Oil Pressure (OEM)
Supercharger Inlet Air Temp (OEM)
Supercharger Inlet Air Pressure (OEM)
Supercharger Outlet Air Temp (OEM)
Supercharger Outlet Pressure aka MAP (OEM)
Flex Alcohol %
Fuel Temp (Flex sensor)
Low Side (feed) Fuel Pressure (LowDoller)
High Side Fuel Pressure (OEM)
Pan Pressure (LowDoller)
Brake Switch (OEM)
Clutch Switch High and Low (OEM)
VSS (Transmission)
Wheel Speed (All 4, OEM via CAN)
Ambient Air Temp (Adding a second OEM TMAP)
Ambient Air Pressure (Adding a second OEM TMAP)
Transmission Oil Temp (OEM)
GPS (10 hz, MoTeC)
DBW/Pedal Position, Cam position, crank position (Obviously)

I -have- EGT inputs available on my MoTeC E888, but I really don't think that's super necessary and it's probably 900 dollars in sensors and a TON of wiring I don't want to deal with.  I don't see a huge need for brake or clutch pressure sensors for my usage, either.

I'm finalizing some parts orders and diagrams and want to make sure I'm not missing anything obvious that I should be monitoring, since adding it later is annoying. 

I ALMOST ordered up a MoTeC PDM15 to run the engine, but honestly, I'm not sure I see much benefit.  My current plan reuses the OEM fusebox with the OEM relays/fuses doing the same jobs they did stock.  Putting a PDM in means I don't have to deal with changing a fuse/relay I guess, but I'll still have that fusebox for all of the OEM jobs.  I am definitively not buying the 2x PDM30s I'd need to rebuild the entire chassis with PDM as that sounds like a terrible job and would cost me like 7k which is a lot for giggles.

[Exidous]

Funny that you'd need so many outputs for a new car. The FD was under 30 totally for everything.

I prefer the Honeywell short stainless over the low dollar. Out of the 20 or so I've installed 4 failed mechanically or electrically.

[digitalsolo]

Wow, that's surprising.  I've used a bunch of their stuff and had no issues so far.

I did the output math and yeah, it's a ton.  The Mustang has way less.

[Exidous]

One was an output failure. The others were all from the composite top rotating and tearing the wires internally.

Wiper low
Wiper high
Horn
Window up/down 4 outs total
Left blink
Right blink
High beam
Low beam
Running lights
Reverse lights
ECU/injector
Ign
Trans
Lift pump
Main pump
Defrost
Ewp
HVAC
Fansx2
Exhaust valve h-bridge
Ign power
Dash power
A/C clutch

ABS, Starter solenoid and brake lights aren't on the PDM.

I think that's everything?

[digitalsolo]

On the Aston there are >80 fuses between the front fusebox, rear fusebox and interior fusebox/BCM combo.

Even with a bunch of consolidation, I'd still be 50+ to keep things properly managed.   Keep in mind that there are CAN modules for each door, each seat, then seat heaters, seat power, etc.  Some can be combined, but many are too high of amperage to split.  Same with wipers, HVAC controls, etc.