Aston Martin V8 Vantage

[Exidous]

Just in case you're not aware, you can do an EMTRON KV8 and a pair of BRZ injector drivers for a V8. Emtron supports DI with an external driver.

[digitalsolo]

Just in case you're not aware, you can do an EMTRON KV8 and a pair of BRZ injector drivers for a V8. Emtron supports DI with an external driver.

Holley, Emtron and Link (and Motec of course, if I want to wipe out my 401k) can do it, with the right add-ons.   Here's where I went with the process:

Holley: $3000+ for a Terminator X Max.  Limited ability to fuss with the direct injection side in the future, some debate around managing drivability on modded stuff with the DI.   Seems best suited for stock swaps in muscle cars.
Emtron: $4000+ with the drivers.  Need to do advanced modeling of pump/injection timing on a dyno.
Link:  $4000+ for G5 Voodoo Pro with the drivers.  Need to do advanced modeling of pump/injection timing on a dyno.
Motec:  $7000+.  Need to do advanced modeling of pump/injection timing on a dyno.

If I had a tuner that could deal with the Emtron or Link locally, and had experience/track record getting them going on a Gen V, I'd probably have gone that way.  I don't have the depth or experience to greenfield a DI tune, and I expect getting someone in the US that could would mean shipping my car somewhere and adding another $4-5k in getting it there/tune/back.   At that point, I'm realistically $8-10K into a standalone that doesn't really do much the OEM ECU can't with HP Tuners and an external wideband.

I don't particularly like HP Tuners (had a bad experience with the company years ago) but a stock ECU + HPT seems like a slam dunk for cost/benefit.   I used to work with a guy who is a top tier Gen V tuner with HPT who is semi-local (90 minutes away) and has owned Gen V records on Cadillacs and Corvettes a bunch of times.   That was my end deciding factor.   I'll be able to get the car running/driving fine myself with HPT, and then trailer it over to him to properly dial it in.  At least that's the theory, anyway. 

To be clear, I appreciate the feedback/info.  Just thought I'd share my thought process with ending up on tuned stock ECU.  If Haltech had a good DI solution, I'd probably have looked a lot harder at that option as well, just because I like their company/support.

[kinger]

I love the plate and knew what it meant instantly!   

Exciting to see how it goes, I think your spot on with the GM ecu this time.  Keep it simple sometimes is the best.  Still Curious what canbus issues you will have/solve.

[Exidous]

Thanks for that Blake. The drivers are cheap on eBay. Under $150 but like you said, modeling the pump timing is a pain. The injection timing not so much since your aren't overly concerned with emissions.
I built an L15B for a guy that is going to do time attack in his Fit. 600whp MID sleeve 1.6L. The link g4+ GDI was the only option but we got it to work. Link had done all the hard work. Have you talked to them (or EMTRON) about what their plans are? The LT is the future then LS parts dry up.
At the end of the day, OE is good for the wallet, just stinks you cannot do all the go fast stuff like TC.

[digitalsolo]

Right now I'm just continuing to bug Haltech, and if they get GDI going, and an LT "base map" I can build from, I'll probably look into it then.  Mostly because I already run their stuff on the Mustang and don't want to learn yet another system, haha.

[digitalsolo]

Progress.   Lacking pictures currently, but lots of progress!

Shifter is in place, linkage is done.  I machined new brackets for the shifter and located/welded them to the torque tube.  I still need to machine some spacers to set height, but I'll do that once it's in the car.   Linkage was easy enough to setup, and the shifter feels great.   I also added some more clearance to the rear "bell" area on the torque tube to make sure I have enough room in the tunnel.   I should have PLENTY now.

I also tore apart the rear suspension and dropped the subframe.  This let me clean up the subframe (and suspension) and do the modifications to clear the diff pump on the transmission.   I braced up the subframe, cut out the rear "x" on it, and welded in a new one spaced back 1" to get the clearance I needed.  I also finish welding up the drop out on the bottom rear of the crossmember where the transmission would hit.   Finally I added tabs to the subframe to let me install a later model Aston Martin Vantage roadster/S "shear plate" that braces the subframe to the chassis for better rigidity.   I had previously setup the chassis side mounting for it, and added one up front. 

Along with the shear plates, I have the upgraded 2 piece brake discs and DB9 GT/Vantage GT swaybars, which should be a solid handling improvement.   I'd like to add some poly bushings to the arms all around before I reassemble it all as well.

Next up is bolting the subframe back in, mounting a few things in the engine bay while the engine is out, then getting the wiring harness on the engine and mounting the drivetrain for hopefully the last time before it runs.   Then finish wiring, plumbing and fuel system.

The last real fab work is just sorting the rear half-shafts, which shouldn't be too bad, just fussy.

[kinger]

No more Youtube vids?

[digitalsolo]

I need to actually make a video.  The process slows me down, and I've got deadlines, so video is usually the first thing I skip.

[kinger]

I need to actually make a video.  The process slows me down, and I've got deadlines, so video is usually the first thing I skip.

I get it, filming is easy for me, its the dang editing I don't like.  You were good on camera so I appreciated them when you put them out. 

[digitalsolo]

I’ll get another put together shortly.  I was wanting to get the chassis fab done and drivetrain in as the next step.  That should be in the next week or two.

[digitalsolo]

So, I think I mentioned before that I ended up with a C5 torque tube and C6 bellhousing.  It was supposed to all be C6 stuff, but whatever.   Since I'm deep into this torque tube due to the custom length and Driveshaft Shop custom propshaft, I'm not going to swap that out.

The issue I found is that the clutch hydraulic stack up was problematic, with too tight of tolerance between the slave and pressure plate (insufficient air gap).  I originally had WAY too little gap but that was due to the C6 hydraulic setup I originally bought.   Went to a C5 slave and my stack is VERY close, but still a little too tight.   So what do I do?  Well, I -assume- a C5 bellhousing would solve it, but that's annoying and expensive.   So instead I measured the alignment dowels and found them to have >3/8" of engagement.   Same with the input shaft to bearing pilot bearing (plenty of engagement).   So my solution? 

3d scan the mating surface and model a small spacer to push the gap out 0.125" to get my gap right.   I did a quick scan, modeled a spacer in CAD and 3d printed a mock up.  Gotta love 3d scanning, because the spacer literally snap fit into place on the dowels.  I ordered up a couple different thicknesses from SendCutSend so that I can dial it in perfectly, but this should solve the issue and not move the rest of the drivetrain back enough to matter for my purposes.

This stuff is why these projects take forever...

[Venom13132]

pretty cool that we can do things like that now though!   I am putting a stupid amount of effort into running the shift knob that I want in my car lol.  I need to have a part milled for that now.  I modelled it up and then had that 3D printed to test fit it to confirm my model worked.  Now I need to have it made out of metal!

What do you have for a 3D scanner?

[digitalsolo]

Agreed, 3d printing alone was a huge thing, but then adding 3d scanning to it, and easy services like SendCutSend is just crazy from a garage mechanic perspective.

I've got a simple Revo Inspire.   Works surprisingly well if you prep parts properly prior to scanning.

[FC3S Murray]

Sharp thinking Blake! I never knew about SendCutSend, thank you! That will be handy in the future 

[digitalsolo]

SendCutSend is dangerously addicting, just a warning, haha!

On the topic of constant scope creep, I ordered a full set of poly bushings for the car.  There was an occasional clunk in the front, and the car is 17 years/~60K miles old, so fresh bushings can't hurt.

Since I have to mess with the suspension more, and I just cleaned/painted both subframes, I decided to soak the suspension arms in detergent/water and scotch brite them all as well.  Not trying to polish/show car it, just clean the crap off of all of it so it's nice and clean to reassemble/work on later.   I'll coat it all in Boeshield T9 when I'm done to help make it easier to clean later.