Alex's '94 FD TT Build -

[shainiac]

On passenger side, yes. I have a 8an bungs welded in both side, but after I was getting a little oil out of the passenger turbo, I upped that drain to 10an and used an adapter fitting in the level hole.
Driver's side is still an 8an and it also doesn't have a check valve. Both downpipes are dry.

[driftnfb]

Ohhh okay this is why your setup may work even with the placement being very similar. I’m draining both turbos with no modifications to the oil pan via check valve into the old oil level sensor port with an adapter on the stock 2002 Camaro oil pan through one 10an line. Works great until your WOT. I can almost bet your location of the bungs are lower than that port.

I wouldn’t rule it out 100% though and really the only way to test is to hook it up without the pump and see. I have little catch cans coming off each turbo to further drop level of the turbo drains which furthermore makes it less ideal. The result of this test could potentially be a big mess lol. One line had a blockage in it and I couldn’t believe the amount of smoke that came out, every T-bolt clamp had oil dripping from it, on top of that it started raining when I pulled over to check.

[driftnfb]

Ok a lot happening over here. Might as well update

Car was good on the dyno but had PCV issues and puked a little. I believe I had mentioned this. Been doing some band-aid fixes without getting to deep into it. I was able to drop the pan a bit to get a finger around the oil pan for some RTV. Seems to work good for a bit. Some slight wetness but no drips, I wrote it off as residual oil.

Since fabricating this whole car over the summer/fall we’ve definitely been testing a lot of the car. Mainly cooling and oil scavenging. We’ve seen a max of 71 degrees around here and have learned a few things.

I’m running a TurboWerx Exa pump and have since upgraded everything to 12an with existing catch cans. I had plumbed everything into the old oil sensor port with a check valve. Everything had seems fine until oil temps really got hot. I’ve learned that this port is a bad spot for draining and needs to be higher. Temporary I had put it into my oil fill port. No smoke back to normal but now lost one of my crankcase vents for my catch can…resume oil residue!

Before pulling the oil pan and such. I used my little camera and noticed some serious wetness in the bellhousing area/transcase and potentially a small crack around the bolt hole (pictured). I’m unsure if a rear main seal can leak past the flywheel (anyone know?) into the bell housing/transmission case but I’ve determined I’m going to have to drop the transmission.. looking at the obvious choice… Magnum F. My first trans swap on this car


Things on order or to order:

Improved racing baffle
Rear main seal, cover, gaskets and alignment tool
12an bulkheads for oil pan
Grannas T56 Magnum F with recommend clutch (Monster?), Yoke and all associated hardware
ARP everything

There’s not a lot of info on this site or in general on oil scavenging but my currently I have a TurboWerx exa pump and the base model Spartan. Because these are two different pump I’m not so fond of running both turbos into two different separate units. I’m more curious about running them in-line with each other— example both turbos Y into the Spartan pump and then Spartan pump feeds to the EXA pump and the EXA pump discharges into the oil pan… the possibility of having a sump in between units sounds better but space is limited.

My delta PAG 16” fan is off the car and is for sale. With the low mount turbos, testing a belly pan with a non vented hood (lol) I was getting thermal runaway. Regardless my radiator is a 24x16 unit and two 12” would fit better (no overhang from the 16”)


And a positive notice I received my Weld S77 15x10 and fitted them with a 26” tire. I immediately sent them in for powder coat. Very happy with the color

[shainiac]

The wheel and tire combo looks great.
Check out the Ford Contour dual fans. They fit great on my 26x16" rad and cool the car really well. They're shrouded and dual 12" fans I believe.
They're pretty slim, also. I was able to duct the turbo inlets over the frame rails and to the bumper, although I have an FC, not FD.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-620-104/make/ford/model/contour

[driftnfb]

Thanks for the reply. I really did some digging on these fans last night and found this



I have 2.7-2.8” in some areas and this fan looks to just be that. Going to take some measurements today. Hell for $120 I’d have no problem running these. Looks like about 20amps per fan

[shainiac]

Good info. I've never actually seen the flow and current curve before. Ive been very impressed with them. I also run mine off of a Dorman PWM relay (1per) and a PWM output table in the ECU. You literally don't hear the fans turn on and they never really go over 50% unless I've done back to back pulls. With crap radiator ducting and a front mount intercooler, I don't think I've seen over 200F ever. 

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-902-310-Radiator-Fan-Relay/dp/B0053T60SE#customerReviews

[driftnfb]

Hey guys little update.

Pulled the trans, replaced the rear main seal And gasket. The original GM Rear cover comes with the seal pre-pressed into the cover so I had to remove that and order another seal for security as removing it caused some dimples. This was for centering the seal

Got an engine brace and replaced the oil pan gasket. I also am now running an improved racing baffle. I hope to do wheelies now. Thanks esser

New slave. Exedy stock replacement. Installed tick performance remote bleeder. I used my motive remote bleeder and a combination of suction and finally got fluid to flow/bleed. No air

Trans looked fine. Casting mark on the bolt Hole area. Painted everything black. Back in the car and on the ground

Weld 15” wheels with J-auto everything clear with 12mm spacers on a 26” tire. Back for an alignment on the 29th

Idle and drive around the block for an hour. Lost a pump due to heat soak. Bought another scavenge pump and plumbed everything 12an. Dual TurboWerx EXA pumps now. If this doesn’t work I’m lighting a match. Aka cutting up the front rail and finding more room. Some return lines are wrapped in triple gold DEI heat sleeve. I’m at my breaking point with the money spent just on plumbing. Using what I got

Bought the dual 12” fans ford contour. Hacked them up big time. Did not fit. I made a custom sheet metal shroud from Home Depot for testing purposes for my current 16” fan . 1/2 tapered into 1/4” shroud. Hopefully it doesn’t choke the radiator but the next step would be dual 12s from Delta PAG before anything.

Back on the ground tomorrow

[Gunnytron]

Sounds like a lot of work getting done. Chasing problems can be d aiming, mentally and financially but it feels good once it's done.

[driftnfb]

Up and down on jackstands throughout the week trying to figure out why I am still getting smoke from the turbos. Cleaning intake pipes, exhaust components multiple times as I began testing my new setup.

At multiple points I had determined the turbos will need a rebuild, I moved things around in the garage to get it ready for tare down and end the season. Back to forums for research on scavenging. Found one suggestion on 90 degree fittings backing up even full flow. I had approximately 4 90 degree fittings on one turbo and 2 on another in an almost 180 degree configuration because of the tight space. I eliminate approximately 3 of those and replaced them with 45 degree male to female adapters to form a more sweeping configuration.

Back on the ground one last time. No smoke…. Approximately 2 hours of road testing and a few hits at 10psi and still no smoke… I wouldn’t say I’m in the clear but I was able to park it last night with a very good feeling. Here’s a video of one of the pulls. I had some Tire rub only under load but decided I didn’t want to fix it and refilm

https://youtu.be/QY55KrOhhAU

Ambient temperature around 82 degrees and temps are about 190-200 creeping to 210 depending on traffic. Fan had been centered and shrouded with some Home Depot sheet metal lol. This is actually a huge improvement as I was in unshrouded, mounted on the hot side of the radiator previously overheating at about 72 degrees ambient. This was the fabricators desired location…. Will most likely place the order for dual 12s as I’d like to introduce AC to the system

[driftnfb]

Well guys we made some big changes this off season. My goal was to re-wire the entire car and get everything in the rear, my other goal was to stop burning oil!

i made both things happen with a Pro8 Relay board wire to the rear bin. What a pain in the ass. I hope to never have to re-wire a car again but I suppose if I have to it would probably go quicker. I did all fabric shrink from Waytek, forgot which connectors but ya spent some dollars on the electrical





The rear passenger bin was already hacked up so it was fitting to hide it with electrical





Almost done

[driftnfb]

decided to pull the trigger on some oil-less air cooled turbos from comp. 6061. so far they work awesome-- zero issues and spool very nice. I bought their grease gun and special grease which set me back another 400ish dollars 





I could never get a proper air intake on the turbos previously. with the rad and intercooler tilted -- I had less than an inch between the compressor housing and the fans. I never wanted to cut the front rail of the car but i had no choice-- i scooted the radiator and IC up approx. 3 inches. I was able to save the stock hood latch for now. (First picture is of old setup)









I also had some cooling issues. I switched to a 16" Delta Pag during fabrication but wasnt able to get it to sit on the radiator without hanging to low --once again because of the angled setup so i purchase (2) 14" Deltapag fans. its a tight fit but they sit in there will a little grinding to the fan housing

[driftnfb]

With the fans in im still very tight on space but am adamant on making this configuration work after spending a boat load on fabrication.



the passenger side turbo sits a little closer to the radiator then the driver side but was able to get "something" to work as these turbo desperately need cold air. I ran a pipe expander with relief cuts so the pipe will go over the turbo housings with a silicone couple over the top and a T-bolt. It was the cheapest option from scooting the turbos back. I actually used the first pipes as a test pipe and later on bought an aluminum donut for the final configuration,



Got some oval to round transitions and was able to tape things together so save some time on fabrication-- hoping to get these welded together tomorrow!



motion raceworks 4" x 3" quick disconnect




I cut up some brake duct for both sides and found 2 K&N air filters that fit exactly inside there.. Hopefully I wont choke the system too much but I rather have some cold air into the turbz. Later down the road I would love to do some type of Porche airbox setup and ditch the plastic ABS but well see--- I always change my mind!

[tai-lun]

WILD!

Awesome progress and update, definitely motivating me to get into the garage too.

[freeskier7791]

oil less turbos sound crazy, but definitely simplifies things, are you doing all the fabrication?

[kinger]

oil less turbos sound crazy, but definitely simplifies things, are you doing all the fabrication?

I am using the air cooled!  No water or oil.  Amazing and love it!  Sick build here!

https://youtu.be/N_1euqQCVc4