New to boosted v8 so I need answers please

[Speedfab]

As far as the asking if the blowoff valve is big enough, look at what Grand National Regals used from the factory...  Oh wait, that's right, they didn't even have BOVs.  Basically anything that can help relieve the "snap the throttle shut" pressure surge is more than good enough.  Besides, I kinda like that ch ch ch chchch compressor surge noise. 

[shainiac]

For 500-600whp, the Borg Warner S366 is a great fit. It's cheaper, smaller, and lighter than the S475 and plenty of people have made mid 600whp on stick shift 5.3Ls. A T6  S475 is a 50# turbo!

[FD3SEvo8]

Engine:
L33 aluminum 5.3 lsx. This motor is 24x but has gen 4 internals.
799 heads (Similar to 243s)
LJMS Stage 2 turbo cam, dual springs, hardened pushrods
Melling oil pump
LS2 timing chain
LS7 lifters
Head studs - Speedmaster
LS6 intake
FIC 1000cc injectors
Holley Rails - -6 crossover
Katech black tensioner
Walbro 450 & Aeromotive 340 in the tank- Y's into -8 feed and -6 return
Fuel Lab black adjustable FPR w/ gauge
Turbo Kit:
Borg Warner S475 Turbo. 1.0AR T4. 83mm turbine/75mm compressor
C6/Truck Flipped Manifolds w/ V-bands. Never burnt a plug wire or had any issue like other setups.
2.25 stainless custom kit. All tig welded.
4" downpipe, steps down to 3.5" and exits out the driver side front fender forward of the tire. Being forward of the tire really helps keep the volume down.
CX Racing 4" Intercooler
(2) Tial 38mm red wastegates
50mm EMUSA BOV
Aluminum charge pipe
3 bar map sensor
Thread in IAT sensor
Thermal Zero Lava Turbo Blanket
Kit wrapped in Lava heat wrap
AEM TRU Boost Controller

Works every time!

Thanks for sharing your setup!

For 500-600whp, the Borg Warner S366 is a great fit. It's cheaper, smaller, and lighter than the S475 and plenty of people have made mid 600whp on stick shift 5.3Ls. A T6  S475 is a 50# turbo!

Hmmm if the S366 will get me there, then sweet! I appreciate the suggestion.

And thanks to all that have posted and given their input. I really appreciate the help and suggestions!


I guess one last thing. What is a good size A/R for a S366 on a 5.3?

[digitalsolo]

T4 in a 1.00 range should give you some headroom.   An S475 with a 1.00 A/R on a T4 would be fine as well.   The S366 will spool damn quick on the 5.3 and make all that a 5.3L should make regularly/safely.   And as noted, it'll be a LOT easier to fit!

[FD3SEvo8]

T4 in a 1.00 range should give you some headroom.   An S475 with a 1.00 A/R on a T4 would be fine as well.   The S366 will spool damn quick on the 5.3 and make all that a 5.3L should make regularly/safely.   And as noted, it'll be a LOT easier to fit!

Then an S366 it is! Thanks again guys! 1 more question. For those who have an LS/5.3 swapped FD, can one make an FD radiator work? I have a Koyo for a 93 RX7 but not sure if it is possible to use it with the swap. I see that Samberg, Mishimoto, etc have LS swap radiators but not sure I NEED it.

I am also doing some research now on the fuel system. Never done an external inline pump so if anyone has any input or cares to show their setups, it would also be appreciated.

[digitalsolo]

You can use the Koyo, sure.   You're going to have to build a custom cooling stack to fit a turbo, so... figure it out.    Hahaha

[Exidous]

The Samberg and Mishimoto are meant for N/A and won't allow room for a snail. Your best bet is to figure where you want the turbo then cram the biggest radiator you can in there.

Personally, I'd get all the hot/cold side mocked up then bust out the cardboard and see how big of a radiator you can fit. Call up Howe or someone similar and have them match your cardboard box. I had a full custom Howe with fans and shroud for under $900.

[wickedrx7]

The Samberg and Mishimoto are meant for N/A and won't allow room for a snail. Your best bet is to figure where you want the turbo then cram the biggest radiator you can in there.

Personally, I'd get all the hot/cold side mocked up then bust out the cardboard and see how big of a radiator you can fit. Call up Howe or someone similar and have them match your cardboard box. I had a full custom Howe with fans and shroud for under $900.

He said cardboard. 😂

[FD3SEvo8]

You can use the Koyo, sure.   You're going to have to build a custom cooling stack to fit a turbo, so... figure it out.    Hahaha

Haha I will get her figured out!

So for sake of not starting a bunch of new threads, I read something that concerns me. I am going to just use a 400 lph Walbro but have heard that it's too much and destroys the Vette filter/regulator. Can anyone confirm this? Because if so, I will just run an inline filter to a Fuel Lab FPR (have one sitting brand new) and roll with that.

[digitalsolo]

You can't run a Vette regulator with boost, it won't reference.

When you run a forced induction setup, you need to boost reference.  Here's why:

Right now your injectors put out say, 50# of fuel per hour at 58 psi of pressure behind them and somewhere between -10 and 0 PSI in front of them (in the engine).   If you turbocharge it and put, say, 10 PSI into the engine side, now your effective fuel pressure is only 48 PSI, meaning your injectors flow ~41# of fuel per hour.   As you need MORE fuel, you get less.   The solution is a boost referenced regulator that adds 1 PSI of fuel pressure for every pound of positive plenum pressure (aka boost).    This means you now put 68 psi behind the injector at 10# psi of boost, meaning effective pressure at the injector outlet is 58 psi.   It also means that under vacuum it flows less, which can make tuning low throttle behaviors a little easier and making big injectors just a little easier to manage.

Hope that helps.

[jwvand02]

You can't run a Vette regulator with boost, it won't reference.

When you run a forced induction setup, you need to boost reference.  Here's why:

Right now your injectors put out say, 50# of fuel per hour at 58 psi of pressure behind them and somewhere between -10 and 0 PSI in front of them (in the engine).   If you turbocharge it and put, say, 10 PSI into the engine side, now your effective fuel pressure is only 48 PSI, meaning your injectors flow ~41# of fuel per hour.   As you need MORE fuel, you get less.   The solution is a boost referenced regulator that adds 1 PSI of fuel pressure for every pound of positive plenum pressure (aka boost).    This means you now put 68 psi behind the injector at 10# psi of boost, meaning effective pressure at the injector outlet is 58 psi.   It also means that under vacuum it flows less, which can make tuning low throttle behaviors a little easier and making big injectors just a little easier to manage.

Hope that helps.

This isn't even my thread and I may never build a turbo car, but that's really interesting and well explained

[freeskier7791]

This is an awesome thread, I am finishing up my buddies 5.3 turbo Camaro, and figuring out the catch can and vacuum lines now.

I am putting pcv out to a catch can and then to the intake after the throttle body, wil that work?

I am using a port from before the throttle body to the boost controller and then the wastegate

The blowoff valve will be from vacuum after the throttle body

The FPR is refrenced from the rear of the manifold as well as the boost gauge.

Anyone see issues with this setup?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[digitalsolo]

PCV clean side should go pre turbo.   Post turbo and it won’t work under boost, when you have the most blow by.   

[freeskier7791]

PCV clean side should go pre turbo.   Post turbo and it won’t work under boost, when you have the most blow by.   

Thanks blake!  I will make that change

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk