TR6060 Clutch Bleed

[jparker7]

I'm having an issue bleeding my Clutch.  I have a tr6060 from an 2010 Camaro in my project.  I've bled it for ever and got a good pedal, but it wont engage the clutch so I bled it some more and now it feels even better but when I close the remote bleeder the pedal wont move at all.  It acts like its air locked.  I've never had an issue bleeding a T56 and am kind of stumped at what could be wrong.  Clutch, Slave, and Master are all new.  1" 7/8 willwood master.  I just don't want to start replace parts when I don't have too.

Ive also used an air powered bleeder tool and still won't work.  Any suggestions?

[digitalsolo]

How are you doing the bleed?

[jparker7]

How are you doing the bleed?

I tried it three ways.  First I just pumped the clutch with the bleeder open into submerged fluid until no bubbles.  Then I used a mighty vac.  Yesterday I opened the bleeder and put it inside the master and just looped the fluid back to the reservoir until there were no bubbles then I tried the first way again.  Now I don't know what to do except to tear shit apart and replace parts.   

[jparker7]

I just read something I'm gonna try.  Open Bleeder depress clutch close bleeder release pedal and repeat until its bled. If this don't work It may be $$$$ TIME

[wickedrx7]

First thing is to always bench bleed the master cylinder.  Then I always have used the:  Open bleeder, depress clutch, close bleeder and repeat.  Never had any issues with this method.

[jparker7]

First thing is to always bench bleed the master cylinder.  Then I always have used the:  Open bleeder, depress clutch, close bleeder and repeat.  Never had any issues with this method.

Ive bled three other t56s with no bench bleeding and never have an issue.  I think my method is whats wrong.

[Supe]

If your pedal won't move at all with the bleeder closed, you may have a defective master.  But, assuming that's not the case, I have a McLeod HTOB in my T101a that is the absolute worst bleed of anything I've ever done in my life (it took me TWO DAYS to figure out how to bleed it).  There was ONLY one way of bleeding this thing after I tried everything else.

I threaded a fitting into the bleed line, and then used a mightyvac to pull about 20" of vacuum on the line.  Slowly press pedal, watch bubbles leave the line, slowly back up.  The problem with doing the press/release only was that there is too much air in the line to actually evacuate it.  One stroke would not push the air out far enough, and it would just creep back up into the line and repeat with every stroke.  With vacuum pulled on the bleed line, with every press, you can watch the air bubble continue down stream until it's completely worked out of the line.

[nzgreenfox]

If the pedal is solid I do not think it is a bleeding problem but something preventing the throw out bearing from moving or something holding the clutch disk against the flywheel.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/1536343-clutch-won-t-disengage.html and
https://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=2103.75  see top of last page- both times it was caused by the ARP washers.
 or it could be a faulty pressure plate, clutch disk binding inside the pressure plate.....

[Supe]

Also, if the pedal felt good, consider that you may have too much travel on the TOB.  This forces the PP fingers too far, causing it to bind/reengage.  I recently had this issue and had to fab a pedal stop.  Easy to check with the car up on stands.

[jparker7]

Also, if the pedal felt good, consider that you may have too much travel on the TOB.  This forces the PP fingers too far, causing it to bind/reengage.  I recently had this issue and had to fab a pedal stop.  Easy to check with the car up on stands.

It only feels good when the bleeder is open.  Its super stiff when its shut