LS Blazer

[gc3]

Slimmer fan options?

i don't think i'll find much thinner with the nice fitting shroud like this dodge intrepid ones.

[freeskier7791]

Slimmer fan options?

i don't think i'll find much thinner with the nice fitting shroud like this dodge intrepid ones.

I think the only option would be going to SPALs but those are probably way more expensive than that intrepid fan

[gc3]

Because im terrible at learning from other people's mistakes, I tried putting regular truck plug wires i had purchased a year ago on and it severely interfered with the steering shaft.
Tried the junk wires from the envoy (promptly tore a wire in half) and it works great :/

looking back at this post http://www.pro-tourings10.com/index.php?topic=87.msg14589#msg14589
looks like Harley already solved the problem i just ignored it previously.

so new tbss wires are on order.

welded up a bunch of aluminum pies to get to here



i plugged one end and filled it with water to see if it will leak down at all overnight before i weld it onto the water pump itself.

i posted this pic on FB and a friend mentioned an escalade hose might have worked.

too late now but maybe i should have tried that first. oh well.

[digitalsolo]

That's a lotta TIG practice time at least. 

[gc3]

Ha yea, i definitely need more aluminum welding practice.

looks like it's going to work


unfortunately i have an idler pulley that is too big (3" diameter) to fit correctly.

Anyone know of any smaller diameter smooth pulleys that don't cost over $100 for some reason?

[gc3]

ended up finding this 60mm OD smooth pulley from dayco
http://www.daycoproducts.com/part?part_type%3D60%26pulley_type%3DSerpentine%26pulley_diameter_mm%3D60.0000%26grooves%3D0%26flat%3DY%26part_number%3D89582

which solved all my issues.

used a string to measure the belt length to ~104" and used this handy thing to find part numbers
http://www.daycoproducts.com/online-catalog-1?part_type=20&length_search=104&num_ribs=6

turns out my measurement was bad so it took me quite a few amazon orders (11 belts ) to get to a 107.5" belt that fits but looks like it might have a little less tension than I'd want on a fresh belt, and a 106.5" belt which is too tight to install.
I now have a 107" belt on its way which hopefully is the happy length.

otherwise i successfully grafted a s10 throttle cable bracket to the ls1 one (I'm using all stock s10 throttle cables and cruise control actuator)

[digitalsolo]

I abhor belt finding missions.   Luckily a friend works at a local parts place so I can grab a few at a time and take back what I don't need without any drama.   Make friends with parts guys. 

[gc3]

been a while since this thread was touched, but been motivated recently to get this finished up with a self-imposed deadline coming up.
Have a campsite at the silver lake sand dunes booked in a couple weekends so I need this running

finished up the wiring and the HPtooning done with my first segment swappage. (running the stock blazer P59 pcm)
Had a brief panic while I couldn't figure out why i had zero spark but ended up finding the "Crank low res" setting which needed to be changed from a 1 to a 0.
took a while to troubleshoot that but fired up perfectly after that.
routed all the cooling lines and temporarily have all the vacuum lines hooked up (needs some cleanup)
buttoning up a bunch of general things and then hopefully a test drive this weekend.

[gc3]

learned my regular Dymo label maker can take heatshrink and print on them.
Pretty slick, wish I had known about this as I was building the harness rather than after I closed everything up with Tesa tape.

Anyways, keeping a connector (stolen from rear O2 sensors) to play with in the future, trying to add the HD truck PTO functionality.
Theoretically I should be able to (at idle) hit the cruise on button and it will bump the idle up to ~1krpm, and i can fine tune up or down with the cruise control +/- switch.

Has anyone read about playing with that as an add-on feature?

Also hoping I might be able to get the tow/haul button to allow for some different parameters to happen (this is a manual truck, so no shift parameter changes though). Possibly different E-fan settings?

these are future things to play with in HPTuners but it's nice to already have the pins in the pcm populated and run to a nice pigtail

[digitalsolo]

This is utterly unrelated, but I read "Tow/Haul" as "Town Hall" and was trying to figure out what the town hall wire would do.   

[65imp]

learned my regular Dymo label maker can take heatshrink and print on them.
Pretty slick, wish I had known about this as I was building the harness rather than after I closed everything up with Tesa tape.

Which Dymo/shrink combo works well for ya.  I end up doing enough of this that a more sturdy label system is WAY pimp. 

[digitalsolo]

I have a Dymo Rhino 4200 and use cheap heat shrink and just wrap it in nice clear shrink as a protectant.  Works well for me thus far.

[sonicgroove]

I may have to get me one of these. I have a standard dymo letratag but thinking about picking up one these rhinos and going ham on the wires one day. You guys are a bad influence of excuse for tool upgrades/additions.  An influence I welcome non-the-less. 

-groovin

[gc3]

i just have a cheap handheld dymo 160
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005X9VZ70/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and tried this offbrand heatshrink
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BPV6JWQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
which seems to work just fine, and cover it with generic clear heat shrink for longevity.

Obviously it's new to me and robustness isn't proven out yet but so far happy with it

I seriously doubted the hood would fit so i drove around with no hood for a while

and then decided to drop the hood on to see how much i needed to cut.
surprisingly with a little massaging of the AC lines, it fit great with 3/4"+ of clearance!
yay having a cowl hood.

As expected, IATs with that intake setup was pretty high so I redid it to gain a little more room from the engine and higher up + closer to the cowl vent at the back of the hood.
The hope is to get a heat shielded airbox around the intake at some point


Been driving it daily the past couple days trying to figure out the little things.

posed it next to my disco. it's so strange how different they are for how similar they are on paper.
Basically the same wheelbase, tire size, ground clearance, weight, etc



one of the annoying things I'm going to have to deal with for a while - the aftermarket fuel pressure regulator dumps pressure out the return in seconds.
when I asked the supplier if this is a defective unit, I was told
 

"EFI bypass regulators may not seal perfectly when the pump is off.  They are engineered for the highest possible performance when the motor is running.  OEM pressure regulators must hold pressure for 30-minutes after shut-down to pass EPA emissions standards.  However we know our customers priority is to have the best possible flow and pressure control when the engine is running and we don’t want to compromise this by forcing the regulator to seal when the engine is off.  If an extended crank or hard-start becomes a concern, first allow the pump to run and prime as long as possible after turning the key to the run position, then start cranking the engine just before the fuel pump shuts off.  If the priming cycle is too short to allow the engine to start easily with this approach you may be able extend the priming cycle in the ECU if programmable, or add a timer board or momentary button to the fuel pump run circuit.
 
So based on the video I believe your regulator is working as it should.
 
Thanks,
Justin
Tanks Inc."

and gen 3 (P59) PCMs have the 2 second key on fuel pump prime hard coded apparently so is not adjustable.

this means I need to either learn to key cycle twice each cold startup or deal with extended cranking.

Or find a new fuel pressure regulator.

Has anyone else ran into this issue? what aftermarket regulator won't dump the pressure immediately?

[freeskier7791]

I think you could use a timed relay that is triggered by the prime signal for the pump...if you want to get all fancy.  Or just run a fuel pump switch