March 17, 2025, 01:35:32 AM

Author Topic: Ten Pounds of Shit in a Five Pound Bag - Twin Turbo LS3/DCT Daily Driver  (Read 145873 times)

Offline driftnfb

I dont want to high jack this thread so ill be updating mine- I installed my 3rd front main seal this year due to seepage. Furthermore, I installed the secondary air pump and coincidentally turned up the boost (15psi total) and not a drop of oil! works beautifully and highly recommend!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
1994 Mazda RX-7
LS2, T56, Twin Turbo Comp 6061 Air-cooled Madness, Ronin 8.8

Offline cholmes

Glad to hear it!  :cheers:

Offline shainiac

That's cool to hear the auxiliary pump is working well. Were you able to put a gauge on it and see what pressure it's pulling? I'm just using a cheap 2 bar MAP sensor, reading off of the oil cap.

My old 5.3 I had opened the ring gap up a lot for boost, like 0.030+ I think. It didn't have much blowby to speak of, but the LS3 has a thinner ring set and I had the engine builder gap the rings for what he recommended for pump gas and <1000whp. I think he did 0.026" top and 0.028" bottom ring.

I now have both downpipes nearly finished. The only thing left is to add O2 bungs and the scavenger pipes. Once those are done, I'm pulling the engine back out to clean up some engine bay stuff and to build all the turbo oil lines without having to crouch in the car.

I've definitely been slacking on working on the car. This spring has sucked and I've traveled for work or vacation something like 8 out of the last 12 weeks.
Hopefully I'll have the engine back out this weekend, finish up the plumbing, and have the car ready for "final" assembly soon. I'm tempted to do first startup with just open downpipes, but I should probably finish the exhaust so I can actually hear if the engine is making any bad noises.
Everything is purchased to make an "active" exhaust. It'll be dual 3" into a single 4". The 4" rear muffler will really be a 5"OD 4" muffler and 5"OD 2.5" muffler in parallel, with a valve to shut the 4" path for quiet-mode. I also bought a 4" cutout if I wanna do a dump under the car like I had with my last setup. I have a feeling a bullet muffler on a 4" exhaust will be plenty loud
 
'88 TII -  Rods/Pistons LS3, Twin G30-770s, MaxxECU Pro/PDM
BMW DCT Swap, Ronin 8.8" IRS

Offline driftnfb

I have not — the oil cap is vented and part of my system. I blew out the seal with 9psi on first pull after replacing — no change other than that air pump and nothing seeping. This is with 100%stock bottom end and rings . I was even getting oil on cylinder 3 spark plug— could be unrelated.
1994 Mazda RX-7
LS2, T56, Twin Turbo Comp 6061 Air-cooled Madness, Ronin 8.8

Offline shainiac

Slow progress, but a few updates.
Downpipes are done done. The firewall-back exhaust still needs done, but I wanted to get the engine in the car and fit up, just in case I’m forgetting something that may impact fitment.

After finish welding the wastegate merges, things moved around a bit. Annoyingly, the step recess in the v-bands for the turbines and for the rest of the exhaust were a good bit larger than the 3” tubing OD. Maybe 0.050” too large. I didn’t think too much about it, but I think once finish-welded, they pulled the v-band out of round. This meant the v-band ring wouldn’t actually fit into the turbine and the v-bands at the back of the downpipe would only go on in one orientation. I ended up taking calipers and a rubber mallet and “roundening” the v-band. It’s probably no longer perfectly flat, so I’ll put a little orange RTV on them for final assembly. If it’s good enough for Pro Mods, it’s good enough for me.

To get the wastegate and turbine v-bands to line up after weld movement, I got all the clamps started but left loose. Then I heated the shit out of the main 3” tube and began tightening the clamps. They’re not perfect, but it did seem to make the situation better.

The engine is out of the car now and I’m making all of the final hoses and heat shields. For turbo coolant, I’m tapping directly into the water pump housing for high/low pressure coolant feeds. I think there should be enough differential to drive flow through the turbos.
Oil drains are done and I have the feed routed under the LS3 intake, which required clearancing.

Getting dangerously close to final assembly!

Also, I finally bought sideskirts. Maybe this will motivate me to respray my runny over fenders so the car doesn’t look so unfinished lol

 












'88 TII -  Rods/Pistons LS3, Twin G30-770s, MaxxECU Pro/PDM
BMW DCT Swap, Ronin 8.8" IRS

Offline Gunnytron

I always hear about people having issue with v-bands. Sounds like you got them to an acceptable place though.
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=12880.0
FD, LS1 running 220 3.90 Trickflow heads, Comp Ultra-gold Arc 1.72 Rockers, 7.550 BTR Pushrods, BTR Stage II NA Cam 227/234 .614"/.576" 113+2, ARP Head Bolts, BTR Platinum Springs, Ported FAST 90, NW 90mm TB, FAST 60lb Injectors, Textralia Clutch/Flywheel, T56, Cobra 8.8, 31 spline, trac-loc 3.55 Diff, Holley HP EFI, Racelogic TC.

Offline shainiac

I've had good luck with v-bands in the past, but I've always MIG welded everything. I think the MIG welds are colder and don't warp things as much.
The convenience of v-bands can't be beat IMO. That, and not having to ever worry about gaskets. On my last exhaust, I could have it off the car it maybe 3 minutes if the car was already on jack stands. Re-assembly took maybe 5. On stuff that needs on/off for service, I highly recommend. Just be a better welder than me lol
'88 TII -  Rods/Pistons LS3, Twin G30-770s, MaxxECU Pro/PDM
BMW DCT Swap, Ronin 8.8" IRS

Offline stubbyfoil

Heat control when TIG'ing stainless is very hard to manage for me also. I'm a beginner welder, with a cheap AHP AlphaTIG 200. I always use a pulse and take my time, usually only welding about 1" sections at a time. Also, welding everything with the Vbands tight in the installed position, and letting it cool obviously helps with distortion also. TIG welding stainless is definitely an art! I was taught never rush, always be comfortable, have everything clean and back purged, and good stainless welds should actually be color-less. No rainbows. No gray. Just clean, colorless welds. Compressed air helps a ton when trying to keep the project cool also.

The turbo kit looks awesome! I'm really excited to see how it all works! Especially those VSRacing piston style wastegates!  :drive:
::SOLD::
1992 RHD FD
Turbo LS2
700+WHP @ 11psi
10.6 @ 136mph on 6psi
:drive: :secret:

Offline shainiac

Good info, I've not tried pulse before. I have an AHP 225XI and have trouble managing with the pedal. I'm also incredibly impatient and don't take breaks or give time to cool between welds. I'm sure all of that adds up to warpage and movement. I did backpurge and make sure everything was clean, though. It's pretty apparent in my welds that they're too hot, but I kind of expected that.
Buying a new hood helped a ton. I went from a ~$100 Miller basic hood to an Amazon "True color" large display hood and it helped a lot with being able to see contrast in the current when I backed off the pedal. My old hood it was basically impossible to see any difference. So much so that I wasn't sure my pedal actually worked lol.

The rest of my fittings showed up today, so hopefully I'll get all the turbo lines complete and be able to reinstall the engine this weekend for final assembly.
'88 TII -  Rods/Pistons LS3, Twin G30-770s, MaxxECU Pro/PDM
BMW DCT Swap, Ronin 8.8" IRS

Offline Exidous

I use the mating clamp as a head sink. I only do 1 inch at a time and swap to the other side. I've not warped a v-band in a few years now. Not letting the coloring get more than 1/4' from the top is key.

Primeweld TIG. No tried pulsed yet but I've heard it helps a ton.
94 BB Sleeved gen IV LS7, MS3ProU with TC, RONIN 8.8 and LT's with custom 3.5"single to VAREX muffler.

Offline shainiac

Finally finished the plumbing. I drilled and tapped the water pump low and high pressure sides for the feed and returns for the turbo coolant. I'm not sure how well this will work, but it's enough for the heater core to get flow.

I used all 4AN PTFE for the oil feed, 10AN PTFE for the drains, and 1/4" Vibrant reinforced silicone and pushlock fittings for the water.

The front steam ports are also tee'd into the low pressure side of the pump. I'm not sure how well this will work since they're lower than the heads, but the rear steam ports are routed up high to the expansion tank.

Everything also got a layer of silicone/fiberglass heat sleeve where it's close to the manifolds. It took me way longer than I'd have liked to finish but happy with how it turned out.










'88 TII -  Rods/Pistons LS3, Twin G30-770s, MaxxECU Pro/PDM
BMW DCT Swap, Ronin 8.8" IRS

Offline digitalsolo

Plumbing looks super tidy!
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...
2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Gen V LT4/TR6060, upper/lower pullies, headers, tune.
2021 Tesla Model 3 Performance - Stock...ish.

Offline shainiac

Re: Ten Pounds of Shit in a Five Pound Bag - Twin Turbo 5.3 Daily Driver Build
« Reply #552 on: August 07, 2023, 01:12:38 PM »
Exhaust is now half-done. I have it merged to 4" and ran to the axle. I was able to get the downpipes as high as possible, but still ever so slightly below the trans pan, and a fair bit below the frame rails. It's higher than my last exhaust and I only ever scraped it going over aggressive speedbumps. Trans pan has never scraped.
I took my time to get the pipe fitup as tight as possible, tacking everything liberally, and welding only one half at a time and everything fits beautifully. The v-bands fall into place and the tight clearances didn't move much at all.

Everything is purchased and on-hand for the rear of the exhaust. I'm building an "active" setup that uses a 4" ID, 5" OD 10" body bullet muffler as the main muffler.
It has a 4" normally-open Loud Valve cutout inline with flow and a 2.5" ID, 5" OD muffler in parallel. When the valve is open, the majority of the exhaust will flow directly through the 4" bullet muffler. When the valve closes (ECU controlled, pneumatic from the on-board air tank for boost control), the exhaust will have no other choice but to make two hard 90s and flow through the 2.5" muffler. It may be a bit more crude than OEM systems, but should function the same.

I also drew up some sheet metal panels to have laser cut to make the muffler one body (closing up the ends and sides of two 5" OD round mufflers to make a 5x10" oval). This would help add some volume to the muffler to tame down just having a 4" bullet muffler.  Not sure how necessary that'll be. My last exhaust was a 3.5" ID, 6" OD, 16" perf core muffler and it was very quite under load, but droned some at low load. The 4" bullet only has about 1/4 the packing volume of my old muffler, but the 4" and 2.5" combined have a similar volume. I'm guessing they won't perform the same, but we'll see. Hopefully I can proportionally control the Loud Valve with PWM and open/close it partially to get what I want.



Engine is in, hopefully for a while.






'88 TII -  Rods/Pistons LS3, Twin G30-770s, MaxxECU Pro/PDM
BMW DCT Swap, Ronin 8.8" IRS

Offline digitalsolo

Re: Ten Pounds of Shit in a Five Pound Bag - Twin Turbo 5.3 Daily Driver Build
« Reply #553 on: August 07, 2023, 02:06:59 PM »
That setup looks so clean.  Exhaust fab does also, great work!
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...
2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Gen V LT4/TR6060, upper/lower pullies, headers, tune.
2021 Tesla Model 3 Performance - Stock...ish.

Offline Cobranut

Re: Ten Pounds of Shit in a Five Pound Bag - Twin Turbo 5.3 Daily Driver Build
« Reply #554 on: August 07, 2023, 10:32:43 PM »
Man, that's a lot of stuff in there.
Really neat workmanship though.  Looks great.
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.