Finally got Traction Control working properly! There was some weirdness in the MS3 Firmware that made the setup not straight forward, but it is working now.
I have an ON/OFF switch and a 0-11 trim pot/knob that controls the amount of slip the system can see before TC starts to engage. I have it set now to switch position '0'= 5% slip and position '11'= 30%. The higher I crank the switch, the more slip the TC allows before intervening. Also, the less aggressively it intervenes.
The way TC works in the MS3, once you're above your slip threshold, the ECU starts counting %Slip*Time. The slip*time count is what the ECU reacts to.
Kinda hard to explain, but basically the longer you're spinning, the more aggressively it pulls timing and boost. I still need to tweak the ECU's reactions some more. The stock settings aren't setup for over 600 lbft of torque lol.
With some pretty mild settings and TC on, I did a 2nd gear pull on 10psi and saw a max wheel slip of 22% in . I did a second 2nd gear pull with TC off (tires more warm now), and wheel slip was 33%.
So, it IS working, just not quite enough yet.
I also had to get creative with the front wheel speed sensor. I tried using the stock Ford reluctor ring and just wasn't able to get a clean signal. The stock ABS sensors are a unusual type and the reluctor ring was slightly magnetized. I ended up welding some M5 countersink screws from a Momo steering wheel hub directly to the reluctor
![lipsrsealed :lipsrsealed:](https://norotors.com/Smileys/classic/lipsrsealed.gif)
. No clue what alloy the reluctor is made from, but it welded like poo!
One other thing, After aligning the car and being a little more cognisant of what's going on in the front suspension, I'm pretty sure I'm getting a lot of bumpsteer.
Not a huge surprise there considering the front knuckles came off a Mustang. I was hoping that having a bumpsteer kit, I could dial in whatever amount of spacer the car wanted, but even with no spacer, it seems I'm out of adjustment.
When lowing the car off the jack, you can see the wheels toe out as they compress. After doing some reading, it looks like Toe out in compression and toe in in droop = outer tie rod too low.
I have the tie rod set as high as possible on the bumpsteer stud. Looking at my options, I can really only turn down the hex portion of the bumpsteer kit stud and raise the tie rod ~3/8".
The easier option would be to drill out the knuckle for a straight 5/8" bolt. There seem to be plenty of people with straight bolts for heim joint tie rods on drag cars and 4x4s, I'm just not sure how smart that would be for a street car.
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