LS Swap Power Steering - The Everything Thread

[cholmes]

I used push lock hose and fittings on the return line, works great. I used Eaton Easy Couple general purpose nitrile hose and matching push lock fittings from the local hydraulic supply store, no problems in many hours on the race car.

[FC3S Murray]

I used push lock hose and fittings on the return line, works great. I used Eaton Easy Couple general purpose nitrile hose and matching push lock fittings from the local hydraulic supply store, no problems in many hours on the race car.

 


Awesome.


So if I use the TurnOne LS1 pump I am assuming it will just use the OEM size power steering belt.

[FC3S Murray]

Alright: I figured I would contribute to this awesome thread to help some of the frustration and confusion when installing PS without using the OEM banjo bolts and fittings.

Turn1 pump is awesome. Obviously they have given it a little make over since Joel put his on. They recommended the RX7 specs be used on the HP2 pump only...so it is a little more $$$

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I went with a remanufactured 2 port rack from NAPA. I wasn't going the banjo bolt route.....
You will need:   M16 x 1.5 to -6AN  RETURN (Silver top fitting) &  a M12 x 1.25 to -6AN HIGH Pressure.

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So I found this M12 x 1.25 TBI fitting to fit the OEM rack best HOWEVER some machining is req'd. You need to shave off 1/16th so to allow 4 threads to thread into the rack with the stat-o-seal washer. If you don't machine it you barely have 1 & 1/2 threads biting the rack. Not good.

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These XRP stat-o seal's worked great. You need a 7/16th and a 1/2" seal for the conversion.

[attachimg=5]


So in order to run the new LS1 serpentine belt with power steering you will need to swap out your "main idler" from a grooved design  to a smooth pulley. Here is the Gates p/n. Also the belt p/n.

[attachimg=6]

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I ended up having to replace my tie rods so I went with AC Delco's substitute on rockauto. They appear a little different in design but are identical dimensionally. I also appreciate the grease fitting (you do have to install the fitting and grease yourself...not already done when shipped).

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Now for the Russell HP power steering fittings Joel recommends earlier in this thread: You will have to use a 120 degree fitting at the pump IF you use Turn1's -AN fitting option upon ordering. It made routing very easy.

[attachimg=9]


As for the low pressure hose, I just ordered standard low pressure power steering hose and used some leftover JEG's "push lock" to -6AN fitting I had laying around. I also used fuel injection hose clamps for extra clamping power.



It turned out great and looks so clean.
[attachimg=10]

[AHarada]

Excellent job. Must feel great to have a clean PS setup!

[frijolee]

I'm so happy to see this thread alive and kicking (and the stellar work clarifying a couple fine points on fittings and such).

[FC3S Murray]

Thanks Joel, I am always  happy to contribute.


One quick question: did you ever have to bleed your system of air? I noticed it was recommended by Napa's remanufactured rack I purchased...they recommended using a might vac: apply some vacuum and let it sit for an hour.


I assume this isn't needed because the pump is the highest part of the system and it will work out air bubbles.

[shawn_m]

I replaced the rack in mine with the same Napa rack.  All I did was roll the wheel lock to lock a couple times, check fluid, repeat. Haven’t had any problems.


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[Tbkonwso]

i'm surprised that no one has been running electric power steering setup yet... you can adjust the feedback on the fly...  can use your depowered rack...  no fluids and pulley.

k-miata use them and you just need to send your steering column back as core exchange.

checkout kmiata or epowersteering.com to see what i'm talking about. running slicks and big ass tires and aeros.. sometimes the feedback is just a bit too much imo with with turn1 pump or reducer.

[frijolee]

i'm surprised that no one has been running electric power steering setup yet...

Several of our members were playing with that about a decade ago.  FYI.

https://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=142.msg1434#msg1434
https://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=9817.msg136639#msg136639

You'll need the photobucket hotlink fix.

[AHarada]

i'm surprised that no one has been running electric power steering setup yet... you can adjust the feedback on the fly...  can use your depowered rack...  no fluids and pulley.

k-miata use them and you just need to send your steering column back as core exchange.

checkout kmiata or epowersteering.com to see what i'm talking about. running slicks and big ass tires and aeros.. sometimes the feedback is just a bit too much imo with with turn1 pump or reducer.

https://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=27669.new#new

I am using the system made by epowersteering.com. I only have a few miles on the setup so far, but it has been great.

[Tbkonwso]

i'm surprised that no one has been running electric power steering setup yet... you can adjust the feedback on the fly...  can use your depowered rack...  no fluids and pulley.

k-miata use them and you just need to send your steering column back as core exchange.

checkout kmiata or epowersteering.com to see what i'm talking about. running slicks and big ass tires and aeros.. sometimes the feedback is just a bit too much imo with with turn1 pump or reducer.

https://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=27669.new#new

I am using the system made by epowersteering.com. I only have a few miles on the setup so far, but it has been great.

im looking to purchase this kit as well? do you have a install guide or pictures? im looking for a spare steering column right now to send in as core

[BlueGT]

Question, what are the mechanical design differences between the Mazda FC and FD steering systems? I am also considering the epower system but I am not sure what kit I would purchase.  I.E. the FD kit offered by epower or one of the universal kits?  TIA, DP

[BlueGT]

So I ordered a rebuilt PS rack from Rock Auto for my 86 FC PS conversion project and got a 3 port unit.

It appears I need to cut about 5 mm off the rack end of the 16 mm -AN 6 fitting so it will sit flush on the gasket. I plan to just plug the 3rd port on the bottom with a 12 mm by 1.25 bolt. From my research I found the 3rd port is normally used for the speed sensitive steering pressure sensor offered on the GTU model.

I am looking for any input and / or corrections to this plan. Thanks in advance, DP 

[cholmes]

Most guys run a "T" hose connecting the port at the bottom of the photo to the port at the top of the photo, then that hose is the return to the P/S pump reservoir. I'd suggest using a stat-o-seal under each fitting, you can get them at a local hydraulic store. Take your fittings with you, they can provide the right size stat-o-seal.

How many threads are engaged by the fitting in the middle port? Once you put a stat-o-seal under it, you may not have enough threads left to tighten it without stripping it. Keep in mind that fitting can see 1000+ psi from the P/S pump.

[BlueGT]

Thanks for the reply Mr. Holmes. Isn't the bottom hole also a high pressure port?  If so why would I connect that to the return hose. I am getting the M12 fitting hex face shaved down later today per Murrays previous thread to allow use of the Stato Seal and engage enough threads.

One more question, it seems there is very little clearance between the LS1 oil pan and the drivers side rack mounting hardware on my FC.
 I plan to shim the motor mounts to gain ~2 mm unless you have a better solution. And since my car originally came with manual steering I will need to fabricate a new passenger side bracket to clamp the rack to the crossmember. Is there anything else I am missing?  DP