I ran '98-02 style Fbody accessories by getting an ATI harmonic balancer with the correct offset.
To make the dry sump pan work you need to have Samberg cut/weld it to clear the steering rack.... or you can retain the stock one and lower the rack (I did this) and run longer bump steer correction. The Samberg method is better.
Factory heads have issues with the valve guides. If GM hasn't replaced them already (recall) then you need to do this. The valves get too much play in the guides and the tip of the valve snaps off causing block destruction. You should also replace the valves with a quality s/s unit and run dual springs... plus a bigger cam

Since the heads will be off... mill them for as much compression as the fuel you plan to run. 11.5:1 can run 91. 12:1 can use 93. 13.5:1 works on e85. Every full compression point is about 3% more power.
The stock oil pump has a thin cover on it that deflects (doesn't make a perfect seal to the pump itself around 5000rpm (in my case)) under pressure when pushed hard. My motor above 5000rpm would hold 55psi and not gain any pressure up to 7000rpm+. The remedy is either make your own aluminum front cover that is thicker (water jet/CnC)... or buy the $800 Katech unit. For a street driven car this isn't really a problem... but if you plan to road race it and beat the daylights out of it for 20-30 mins... do the upgrade. I sold my motor and am going to a Dailey billet real dry sump system most likely on the 441ci motor.
I mounted the oil tank behind the passenger seat and ran the lines under the car to the oil pan. They make adapaters so you can run -12AN hose from pan to tank. The lines had protective covers around them (aluminum bent) under the car. My oil changes were pretty simple. Access to the tank was a large allen socket drain with a silver dollar size hole cut in the floor.
Any major bend in the intake prior to the TB will suck up power. Samberg makes a nice radiator/intake kit that is a very straight shot. Doing your own intake with a 90* bend will suck up 20-30rwhp.