Battery disconnect switch question?

[1320king]

So I am installing my battery disconnect and since iam running a 140amp alternator and the battery is in the trunk it is suggested that I use 1/0 gauge wire..... Well I dont want to run dual 1/0 gauge from the front of the car to the back sooooo this lead me to this idea.

Could I simply wire the battery disconnect (i have a 4 pole version) to my ignition switch so when I flip the switch it kills the ignition power, witch then kills both my 1 wire alternator hookup and my ecu (holley hp efi) trigger wire? It seems like this should be fine since it essentialy shuts off my ignition, fueling,alternator etc but I just wanted to make sure there is no weird electrical surge I should be aware of when I do this that could potentially short everything out. 

[MoparX]

For the same reason, I'v seen a guy run a push/pull cable from the back to the front where the disconnect switch is installed next to the battery. 

The guy I spoke to about it told me this is the company he used for the cable.  Glad I saved the name in my phone now because it's been a while.

https://www.cccables.com/Home.aspx


He was also running this switch.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Flaming-River/898/FR1003-2/10002/-1

[1320king]

huh? Not sure what you mean.

[MoparX]

The switch was mounted up by the battery and the on/off handle was located in the back bumper via a push/pull cable.  The same type of cable used with shifters, just longer.  I though it was pretty slick myself.  Wish I had pictures.  In any case it solved the same issue you have by not wanting to run power all the way to the back just for a switch.  How it's wired is the battery and alternator wire connected to one side of the switch, and then everything else connects to the other (basically everything that's connected to the + on your battery now, except the alternator wire).  When the switch is turned off power from the battery and alternator are cut and not able to power anything, completely killing your car if needed.

Also, I was adding onto the post when you replied so you may not have seen the links to either the cable manufacturer or the switch he was using. 

[1320king]

thats one idea but cant mine also work?

[MoparX]

Just re-read your post and saw where you said the battery is trunk mounted.     I was under the impression your battery was still up front and you were trying to figure out a way not to run heavy gauge wire to the rear if you didn't have to. 

I don't see why that wouldn't work.  Use 2 poles to intercept the main battery power and 2 poles to cut the ignition.  As long as when the switch is turned the whole car goes dead.

[smeddler]

Check the NHRA rule book

[1320king]

OK Iam not asking if it is NHRA legal. AND yes it is, iam asking if there was any problem if i did it that way in a "frying everything" kinda way. and thank you mopar