March 18, 2025, 07:54:11 PM

Author Topic: front strut conversion  (Read 39844 times)

Offline rex388

front strut conversion
« on: November 28, 2014, 11:54:46 PM »
Has anyone else ever try Scotties third gen front strut conversion?

As soon as I have the car is running and weighed I was going to get some double adjustables using his blue print.
The only cure for drag racing is poverty

Offline Phish

Re: front strut conversion
« Reply #1 on: November 29, 2014, 07:52:16 PM »
I plan on doing so.  I just bout a st of the lakewood 90/10s and hope to get them installed ont he car maybe in Jan.

Offline rex388

Re: front strut conversion
« Reply #2 on: November 29, 2014, 08:54:08 PM »
You buying the third gen camaro ones or fox body?
The only cure for drag racing is poverty

Offline Phish

Re: front strut conversion
« Reply #3 on: November 29, 2014, 09:15:36 PM »
The ones off the Third Gen Camaro are the ones that i have purchased.  I really dont think it will be much work to get them to work on the FC.   I am sure once they are in my hand it will be pretty clear on what needs to be done.  (along with the info on here about Scottie's modifications.

Offline MoparX

Re: front strut conversion
« Reply #4 on: December 03, 2014, 04:44:32 AM »
Interested in this.
Well, it used to be MOPAR powered...............

Offline rex388

Re: front strut conversion
« Reply #5 on: December 03, 2014, 06:27:01 AM »
I know myself I won't be getting around to these until probably after February. Just found out yesterday that I am going to work for five weeks straight. I am really excited to work through Xmas. Atleast I don't have kids yet I guess.
The only cure for drag racing is poverty

Offline N2v8fcs

Re: front strut conversion
« Reply #6 on: December 03, 2014, 07:29:00 AM »
:drive:
new personal best 11.45 @ 120 mph N/A car...9.11 @152 mph for the turbo car.


1987 FC  355 SBC, T-5, T2 rear        retired 5-4-11
1991 FC  383 SBC, sold to Dad. Now 5.3 w 76mm turbo, G-force T-5, 8.8 Ronin rear 
1990 FC  370 CID 6.0 w 88mm turbo, Powerglide, Ronin 8.8 w 3.15 gears

Offline Phish

Re: front strut conversion
« Reply #7 on: December 03, 2014, 08:19:44 AM »
the Lakewood shocks should be arriving today.   I plan on going with the Team Z coilover sleeve kit with the 14" 150# springs. Here is a link:

http://www.teamzmotorsports.net/coil_over_kit_p/tzm-scok.htm


Beyond that, i am holding up on the car build till after the middle of this month.  I am actually going to Las Vegas and getting married on 12/13.  After that its game on again with the build. 

When i get moving on this, i will try and do a step by step how to on the process and post it up.   I mean there is alot of information on this site on what to use and generic how to, but i cant find any pictures of the build process on making the shocks.   I figured i could add to the community for once instead of just taking.

Offline N2v8fcs

Re: front strut conversion
« Reply #8 on: December 03, 2014, 10:40:07 AM »
Good stuff...
Congrats on getting married!
I'm will be def looking forward to seeing the pics!
:drive:
new personal best 11.45 @ 120 mph N/A car...9.11 @152 mph for the turbo car.


1987 FC  355 SBC, T-5, T2 rear        retired 5-4-11
1991 FC  383 SBC, sold to Dad. Now 5.3 w 76mm turbo, G-force T-5, 8.8 Ronin rear 
1990 FC  370 CID 6.0 w 88mm turbo, Powerglide, Ronin 8.8 w 3.15 gears

Offline rex388

Re: front strut conversion
« Reply #9 on: December 03, 2014, 11:41:29 AM »
Man should of gotten married when scn was going on so you could of watched some drag racing... No but congrats on getting married.
The only cure for drag racing is poverty

Offline Phish

Re: front strut conversion
« Reply #10 on: December 03, 2014, 08:07:23 PM »
Just when i say i am not going to do something, i find a couple local guys selling some parts that i am in need for a price i cant pass up.  First, a somewhat local guy was selling a set of 12" 150lb springs that i purchased for the front shocks.   2nd, a local guy was selling a set of D&D Motorsports coilovers with 12" 200# springs.   I grabbed those up as well on my way home from work.  3rd, when i got home, i had the set of front lakewood 90/10 shocks sitting on my doorstep. 

Since i have enough parts on hand to start some work, i figured i would go ahead and see what it would take to make this shock bolt up in the stock mazda location.   This is where i got and what i have learned so far:

Pic of the coilovers.  I will be using the coilover itself on the front, but these springs are the 200# springs that will be used in the rear



pic of the shocks that will be getting modified and installed:





First thing is first.   Obviously where the bottom of the shock bolts to the Rx7 needs modified.   Basically the holes need to be farther apart and the channel itself needs to be narrower.  I read in other threads that "Scottie" somehow took the mounts off the stock mazda shock and slid them inside the Lakewood shock and welded them along with redrilling the top hole.  I do not see how this is possible.  I have my own ideas on how to modify it to fit.   Instead of using the parts off of the mazda shock, i intend on making a new c-channel that will slide inside the mounting location on the Lakewood shock.  the new C-channel longer and will go up farther on the shock so the holes can be in the right location and there will be enough material to keep the mounting location strong.  I know this sounds confusing, but once the new c-channel is made and installed, it will be self explanatory and pictures will be worth a thousand words.

Here is a pic of the mounting holes on the Lakewood shock.  If i am to keep the bottom hole and use it for mounting, the new top hole would be right at the edge of the flange where it starts sloping inward.   it would be at the same distance from the bottom hole as the small circular indention is on the flange.  Its 3-3/8" from the bottom hole.





I will get more into modifying this once i get the new c-channel made and installed.


Moving past mounting the bottom,next i decided to see if i could get the coilover sleeve to fit on the shock.   As others have stated there is a small dust shield on the top of the shock that needs to be moved.  this is done by drilling out the three spotwelds on the shield.   Use a larger bit and go slowly taking off a bit at a time and eventually using a screwdriver to pry the shield away and break the spotweld.   This is pretty simple and straight forward.  Just take your time and be careful not to drill into the shock itself.

Dust shield:




Shield with spotwelds drilled:




Shield removed:




After the shield came off, the coilover sleeve slid right on without issue.

This is where i called it a night.  I will work on making the c-channel tomorrow and getting it welded to the shock.  I happen to work at a sheetmetal shop so material and machines to make it and weld it in are pretty readily available.  I will update this thread as i go along.  I have yet to even look at how to mount the tops of the shocks yet.  That will be a separate battle for me to figure out after this one has been won.


Offline N2v8fcs

Re: front strut conversion
« Reply #11 on: December 04, 2014, 11:01:03 AM »
 :popcorn:
:drive:
new personal best 11.45 @ 120 mph N/A car...9.11 @152 mph for the turbo car.


1987 FC  355 SBC, T-5, T2 rear        retired 5-4-11
1991 FC  383 SBC, sold to Dad. Now 5.3 w 76mm turbo, G-force T-5, 8.8 Ronin rear 
1990 FC  370 CID 6.0 w 88mm turbo, Powerglide, Ronin 8.8 w 3.15 gears

Offline Phish

Re: front strut conversion
« Reply #12 on: December 04, 2014, 06:59:01 PM »
I made some decent progress on the strut setup today. Here is some pics and info to hopefully help some along the way.

In the post above, i explained my theory on adding a C-channel to the strut bracket to narrow the opening and to have enough material to make a new hole to match up with the FC mounting points.   Here is the C-channel that i made:



As you can see i drilled the new holes to align with the FC mounts.   The opening is 1" wide and the channel is 6.5" long.  The holes are 3-3/8" apart.  The channel measures 1.25x1x1.25 and i made it out of 10ga blackiron.  (10ga is roughly 1/8" thick).

After making the channel the next step was to make sure it fit inside the strut bracketry.  In order to get it to fit, there is a lip on a rivet(?) that has to be ground down.

Here is the lip that needs grinding:



here is is after it was ground down - There is one on each side to remove.




Once they are removed, the channel then slides inside.  Once the channel is inside, you can see the dilemma on where the second hole falls.  Its a rather inconvenient spot.




In my opinion, just removing and opening the second half of the hole would not make for  a strong enough bracket or mount.  Thus, i cut a small angled piece then welded it onto the sides to extend the Lakewood bracket forward.:

Pic of the piece i added:



Here they are tacked into place:




Once the angle pieces were attached, the C-channel was once again slid into place aligning the rear/bottom holes.  Then, the channel was welded into place as well.  i was sure to weld in short sections allowing time for the strut to cool between each round of welding.  Once it was welded up, i measured where the second hole should be (that is now covered up by the angle piece that was preciously welded on) and then i drilled out that hole once again.

Here are a couple pics of the unmodified lakewood shock, next to the shock that i have now completed the fab work on:









Once the first strut was complete, i did the same to the second.  Making it identical to the first.





Now that they were done - or so i thought -  i went ahead and trial fit them on the car.   When aligning the top hole and putting a bolt into it, the bottom of the shock would not swing in far enough to align the bottom hole.   The bottom of the lake wood shock was hitting. 




I pulled the shock back off, and took off the corner of the bracket where it was making contact.  Here is the modified shocks:




With the corner (on both sides) modified like this, all bracketry clears, and the holes will align.   So, now that everything on the bottom bolts up, i went ahead and gave it a quick paint job.  Thus, finished the bottom modifications needed to mount the shock to the FC.   Tomorrow i will work on the bracketry needed to mount the top.   

Pic of shocks after fabwork and paint:




Offline digitalsolo

Re: front strut conversion
« Reply #13 on: December 04, 2014, 07:11:31 PM »
Pretty cool work!
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...
2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Gen V LT4/TR6060, upper/lower pullies, headers, tune.
2021 Tesla Model 3 Performance - Stock...ish.

Offline 1320king

Re: front strut conversion
« Reply #14 on: December 04, 2014, 09:32:17 PM »
what are you going to do for the top?