March 17, 2025, 02:42:51 AM

Author Topic: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project  (Read 612869 times)

Offline cholmes

Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« Reply #2520 on: January 07, 2021, 12:55:40 PM »
Quote
gotta be that E-Brake  :D
 
Ok, now that's just funny, I don't care who you are.

Offline wickedrx7

Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« Reply #2521 on: January 07, 2021, 02:50:11 PM »
Hmm.   I guess I could have added almost 1000 lbs, but I’m just not sure how.

Did you leave the old wiring in every time you redid the wiring? That would add up.... 

1993 Touring, 2012 L99, T-56, Ronnin 8.8, Ohlins, Speedhut, Samberg and lots of custom parts
Build Thread - http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=19354.0
Pictures - www.flikr.com/wickedrx7

Offline Exidous

Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« Reply #2522 on: January 07, 2021, 04:37:25 PM »
I hear too much clear coat can add 500lbs.
94 BB Sleeved gen IV LS7, MS3ProU with TC, RONIN 8.8 and LT's with custom 3.5"single to VAREX muffler.

Offline digitalsolo

Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« Reply #2523 on: January 07, 2021, 05:40:14 PM »
I hate you all.   Haha
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...
2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Gen V LT4/TR6060, upper/lower pullies, headers, tune.
2021 Tesla Model 3 Performance - Stock...ish.

Offline FC3S Murray

Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« Reply #2524 on: January 07, 2021, 06:28:31 PM »
[attachimg=1]

He is saying:
Soon you will learn to appreciate me :gruffy:
« Last Edit: January 07, 2021, 06:36:03 PM by FC3S Murray »



13 years of abuse and still running STRONG!

SRM Performance Tuning LLC
https://www.instagram.com/fc3s_murray/?hl=en

Offline digitalsolo

Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« Reply #2525 on: January 09, 2021, 11:57:11 PM »
Finally started work on my CAN control hub.   It'll do a few things eventually (that's the idea anyway) but here's the overview:

Hardware:

Macchina M2 "UTH" (Under the hood)  - This is an Arduino based automotive hacking tool.   I am using it because it does all the stuff my old CAN hardware I was designing/building does but in a vastly more compact form factor.   2x CAN busses, automotive input voltage, and some basic I/O.  I built a "hat" for it that fits in the spot where you'd normally put a wifi/bluetooth board that adds some more ground switched (sink) controls that can act like switches for my Haltech and such.   Basically, those will let me mimic an analog switch to something, while actually being a CANbus button on my CAN keypad.   Why?  Because I can make the CAN keypad smart, and it has lights to indicate state and such and toggle switches are, in fact, not smart.

Plans:

Parking brake -

The parking brake works great with the buttons on the car, but it's dumb (I talked about this before) in that it doesn't know it's state when I restart the car.   To fix this, the M2 has an SD card that I can write a status byte to.   So it'll listen to CANbus and track what the last thing I did to the brake was (set or released).  It can actually find out what the actual brake controlled did because it tells the bus that also.   So it stores that on an SD card every time the value changes (that way I'm not just spamming writes to my SD card and wearing it out).   It then uses that status to set up the keypad. 

The keypad status has two lights/buttons.  One for set and one for release.   So whichever status it's in is lit up on the keypad, red for set, green for released.    So if I set the brake and turn off the car, the next time I start it the M2 sends the CAN message to the keypad to light the red light and set that button to status "1".   That means I see, visually, a bright red light to tell me "hey stupid, brake is set".   I can hopefully eventually send a message to the Haltech dash that also tells me that.    I then press the "release" button, which turns off the red light, and turns on the green light.    If I park the car with the brake released (like if I'm working on something or it's on the lift, etc.) it'll know that too, and light the green light when I key on next time and I'll know my brake isn't set.

I could make it do this stuff automatically, but I don't always necessarily want the brake set on key off, etc, so I'd rather just have a smart button.

----------

AC -

This is more simple.  The Haltech looks for ground to run AC, and for some cars can use CAN bus.   I'm hoping to get a compatible CAN signal and just send that when I press the button on the keypad.   If I can't get the CAN to the Haltech going, I'll just use a ground sink output from the M2 to control a digital input on the Haltech (this is how it worked before).   The chassis PDU controls the light for this since it's fine if it forgets when I shut off/start the car.

Traction Control Disable -

Same as AC

Scramble Boost -

Same as AC

Cruise Control -

BASICALLY the same again, but there are 4 buttons, so I really, really need to get CANbus for this to the Haltech, as I don't think I have 4x more inputs available.   I could do a variable voltage output via PWM to use a single input as multiple buttons and just altering the voltage output when I press different buttons to simulate a resistor array like some stock cars do, but this is half assed vs. CAN.    Gotta figure out CAN for this.

Horns already work with CANbus to the chassis PDU, that part was easy.   Same with hazards.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...
2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Gen V LT4/TR6060, upper/lower pullies, headers, tune.
2021 Tesla Model 3 Performance - Stock...ish.

Offline paul_3rdgen

Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« Reply #2526 on: January 10, 2021, 03:32:01 PM »
I really love what your doing with this car.  I only wish I understood the electronic portion of what your doing.  I’m going to start looking into online courses.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
93 RX7 R1 500rwhp
LS2, H/C combo... ARE drysump
Race Logic traction Control and 4 wheel Stoptech BBK
3.73 gears installed in the stock diff  :o

Offline digitalsolo

Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« Reply #2527 on: January 10, 2021, 08:00:01 PM »
It’s not terribly bad but I do wrote code and such for a living so my view may be a bit off.

I got the CAN status for the parking brake working properly today.   Next is working on interfacing to the Haltech.  :)
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...
2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Gen V LT4/TR6060, upper/lower pullies, headers, tune.
2021 Tesla Model 3 Performance - Stock...ish.

Offline Exidous

Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« Reply #2528 on: January 10, 2021, 08:51:52 PM »
I REALLY need to find a class for automotive CAN. I already have the basic for addressing and such but need moar.

Love the integration side of your build the most.
94 BB Sleeved gen IV LS7, MS3ProU with TC, RONIN 8.8 and LT's with custom 3.5"single to VAREX muffler.

Offline digitalsolo

Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« Reply #2529 on: January 10, 2021, 09:48:30 PM »
Thanks.   I really enjoy the fiddling for stuff like this.

I've done some more digging and I don't think I can do CAN for the cruise, just because Haltech simply won't let me.

The simple solution will be as follows:

Set ECU to expect my car to be a BRZ.  Then use my CAN controller to translate the keypad data to look like BRZ outputs.

AC - CANbus
Traction Control button - CANbus
Scramble Boost - digital output from the CAN controller
Cruise Control - PWM output from the CAN controller.   I'll translate button presses to different PWM % to vary output voltage to a single input wire.   The buttons will be "Enable" "Cancel" "Resume/Accel" and "Set/Coast".

All of this should be fairly easy.    I also got the HVAC controls dialed in and tested, working with my custom machined setup and new rotary pot/dial inputs that replace the old slider setup.   I need to clearance the center console itself slightly for that to fit, and epoxy some bolts to the back to allow me to install it, but it's functional at least.

Bluetooth amp is in place and working now also.   I have kick panel speakers in the car already, and I pre-wired the doors for more speakers later if I want.   If I get real amped I may put those in this off season too.   I just send data to the amp from my phone via bluetooth;  phone controls volume, etc.    Easy-peasy and hides under the dash.   It's like 3 lbs and about 4x6x2" total.

Once I finish this stuff, I'm going to get the front wheel speed sensor in and that should finish the electrical projects.    I need to fix the alignment of my driver side window (it's just a little out of whack, these old cars are a real bear to get door glass just right in).

Then swaybar fabrication and alignment.    Then I think I need to go looking for projects.   Maybe tint the windows?   I dunno, haha.   I do need to get the tranny worked on as 3rd gear is a little flaky, but I don't know if I feel like spending the time/money this season for that or maybe hold it for next winter.   We'll see.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...
2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Gen V LT4/TR6060, upper/lower pullies, headers, tune.
2021 Tesla Model 3 Performance - Stock...ish.

Offline Cobranut

Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« Reply #2530 on: January 10, 2021, 11:45:33 PM »
Blake,

Do you think the pseudo-sequential shifter may have had anything to do with the transmission problem?
Maybe it encourages you to shift fast all the time, putting extra stress on the synchros, blocking rings and shift forks.
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.

Offline digitalsolo

Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« Reply #2531 on: January 11, 2021, 07:39:16 AM »
Nah, it’s only 3rd and it did it with the MGW as well.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...
2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Gen V LT4/TR6060, upper/lower pullies, headers, tune.
2021 Tesla Model 3 Performance - Stock...ish.

Offline digitalsolo

Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« Reply #2532 on: January 11, 2021, 11:48:36 AM »
Nerd notes:

I was using a full byte comparison for state tracking which was a problem because each byte carries two button states.

Rewrote my statements to do a bit shifted read of just the bit for the button status I’m tracking for a given function.

Human readable:

Found a possible bug that could cause the program to read the wrong button and fixed it.

Next:   Test PWM high side driver output.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...
2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Gen V LT4/TR6060, upper/lower pullies, headers, tune.
2021 Tesla Model 3 Performance - Stock...ish.

Offline digitalsolo

Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« Reply #2533 on: January 12, 2021, 10:16:51 AM »
Good news:

Got PWM working as expected.
All keypad buttons are now recognized and tracked by the CAN controller.
Validated keypad status light control is still working properly after all other functions are added.

Bad news:

Did something dumb testing the PWM output and blew up the controller.   Whoops.   That was a 50 dollar “oops”.    Ordered a new one, which I will be more careful with...
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...
2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Gen V LT4/TR6060, upper/lower pullies, headers, tune.
2021 Tesla Model 3 Performance - Stock...ish.

Offline Exidous

Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« Reply #2534 on: January 12, 2021, 12:41:05 PM »
How did you "oops" it?
94 BB Sleeved gen IV LS7, MS3ProU with TC, RONIN 8.8 and LT's with custom 3.5"single to VAREX muffler.