Blake's 1965 Mustang Project

[Cobranut]

Reminds me of when I was building the 427 in my Cobra. 
Sig Erson was supposedly releasing a needle roller shaft rocker system.
I had contacted them far in advance and was to get a set as soon as they were available.
After waiting about a YEAR for them to finalize the design, I finally went with the Harland Sharp system.

It seems to me though, that these are just head studs.
The materials they make them from are already established. 
The only things needed to do in development is determine which material to use, the thread and length specs, and the shank diameter to provide for the proper stretch.
It just seems that it shouldn't take that long, after all, the Coyote's been out for SIX YEARS. 

[digitalsolo]

Oh these aren't new.   They have made them for like 3 years for my engine.   They just don't have any of them.  At all.   For 2 months.   Dafuq.

I just didn't expect this kind of crap with a mainstream motor.   Between fitment issues, parts issues, etc., it sure would have been easier to stick with my 2JZ or LS motor plans.

[BLKMGK]

Ha! I'm not surprised. I spend most of my time in the turbo Porsche world. ARP studs for this platform are no better than stock. Those are 10mm, 12mm is what many run for big power. Call ARP and they tell you BIG dollars for "custom" studs made from unobtanium with a lengthy lead time. You can get euro made uber studs  made in small batches from unicorn horns for about the same price!

So what to do? Find their catalog and start trolling. The community found a stud 12mm thick and .25 longer built for a diesel application with an even stronger thread in the block. ARP stocks these all day long dirt cheap, problem solved.

I'd suggest searching their catalog like we did. Unless the studs are really funky I bet you find something else that works. Surely the race guys are getting studs, they might not even be using ARP...

[screamin88]

Seems silly that Ford finally has a mass produced engine that can compete with the LS platform in the swap world and ARP doesn't have shit ready for them.

I like Black Magic's thought and trolling for studs that will work in their catalog. May even save money piecing it together.

[digitalsolo]

I'm not against that, but I paid for some studs a bit more than 2 months ago. 

[screamin88]

I'm not against that, but I paid for some studs a bit more than 2 months ago. 

I bet the Russians had something to do with it.

[digitalsolo]

Well I didn't pay the studs to urinate on me, so I'm not sure if it's Russians or not.

[carlb]

Lol. Maybe you should and they'll be delivered with some "extras" to monitor your activities.

[digitalsolo]

So I had a day off of work today (boss told me I'm grumpy and had to take a day off, haha) so I decided to work on my rear axle since I'm waiting for parts on the FD I'm rewiring.

Got the rear end mostly torn down and realized my 3rd member housing has no pinion pilot bearing.   Crap.  No one stocks one locally either.   So I ordered one (and a set of nuts/washers for the 3rd member to mount to the housing) from Summit.

In the mean time I went ahead and built the new Daytona pinion support and set preload on the bearings with my new gears (3.70) and a solid spacer.    It's using an aluminum Daytona pinion support with Timken bearings and a Ford gearset.   Should be plenty stout for my needs.   3rd member is a Yukon nodular piece and the diff is a Detroit Locker (clicky, clicky ratcheting style).    I also welded up the tabs on the rear for the brake hard lines/soft line connections and a T block for connecting to the chassis side brake lines.   Bent up and installed the hard lines on the axle, too.   The housing is done minus some touch up paint, and then I can drop on the brake backing plates, put in the to-be-completed 3rd member and add soft-lines and fluid and it's ready to roll (literally).    Going to touch up paint on the control arms as well, and then it should all be ready to final install in the car.

Next up is the front swaybar and a few touch-ups in the engine bay, which will mark the end of the suspension work on the car.    Then I'm waiting for head studs to finish the engine so that I can finalize the new shifter and the new cooling systems/plumbing, then it's paint time.

[digitalsolo]

So I got started on the front swaybar mounts since I had to order that pilot bearing (which showed up today, 14 hours after ordering, man I love Summit.  Unfortunately I need a 1/2" allen socket to pull the diff out of the housing, so I'm stuck again until I get one).

Got the front supports (which were replacements for the old strut rod mounts) cut up to allow the bar to mount into them and then welded it up on the bottom/sides (need to drop the car down on the lift to weld the tops).   I couldn't get everywhere I wanted on the ends so I built boxing plates to tie the frame, braces and swaybar mounting tube together.   I got to bend some 1/8" plate in my new brake.   It made a loud noise when I was bending with it (I think a finger wasn't fully seated) and I about jumped out of my skin, but it wasn't anything to worry about and it's working great!    The tube for the swaybar is .125" wall 1.75" DOM steel, so aside from being a solid mount for the swaybar, I figure I'll tie all of the front metal to it to help stiffen the chassis up as it's a pretty stout thing.

I'm building some more boxing plates for the front of it (the ones I built went between the frame/tube/braces on the rear) that will strengthen it even more and also dress it up a bit, because you know it's important that this area that no one will ever see looks nice.     I may plate the factory front crossmember at the bottom of the core support to this tube as well, since I need to do something to direct airflow there anyway and I'm about to hack that crossmember up for my oil cooler.    I'm considering getting a couple of 1" tubes made to tie the swaybar crossmember into the steering rack mounts/engine crossmember to further triangulate things.    It's not much weight (just a few lbs) and these chassis need all the help they can get.   It'll end up sorta like the DSE Alumaframe, just not 6k dollars.

I'll snag some pics shortly.   

[digitalsolo]

So, here is a shot of the front swaybar/reinforcements in progress:



Don't mind the booger welds on the tube to the frame on the front.   The metal had a nasty spot on the frame rail that kept contaminating the weld.   It was just to hold it in place while I did the rest of it, and that area will get boxed in anyway.   

Here is the rear axle (mostly) finished up:



Specs are:

Factory '67 Mustang rear, stock width, adjusted to be centered with early Ford "big bearing" ends using tapered bearings with seals.
31 Spline Axles, custom length
Wilwood 4 piston Dyanlite calipers with parking brake (internal)
Detroit Locker ratcheting style diff (deburred and powder coated)
Ford OE 3.70 Gear Set
Yukon Nodular Iron 3rd member housing
Aluminum Daytona style pinion support
Timken Bearings throughout
Solid pinion spacer
Billet Steel 1350 Yoke

I had to clearance the Yukon as the Detroit Locker carrier fouled on the pinion pilot support area when I tightened up the backlash up to spec.   A bit of time with the grinder and she's got .125" clearance now.

I added a drain bung to the housing so that I don't have to disassembly Johnny 5 to swap out fluid in the future (because pulling this axle off of the torque arm is a bit of a PITA and the 3rd member can't come out with the torque arm installed).

I'll tear it down, add a couple brackets to lock the hard lines in place, paint it, order braided lines for the ends and final assembly the outside in the next couple weeks.   The diff itself is (hopefully) final installed and sealed up.

[N2v8fcs]

Awesome work as always Blake!

[zbrown]

Finally came and looked in here. Kept pissing me off when I tried to look at the pics on FB.


Looks awesome! Very impressive!

[zbrown]

2" piping
1.57 x 2 = 3.14 sq in
300 cfm = 156 mph = 0.20 mach
400 cfm = 208 mph = 0.27 mach
500 cfm = 261 mph = 0.34 mach
585 cfm max = 304 mph = 0.40 mach


2.25" piping
3.9740625 sq in = 1.98703125 x 2
300 cfm = 123 mph = 0.16 mach
400 cfm = 164 mph = 0.21 mach
500 cfm = 205 mph = 0.26 mach
600 cfm = 247 mph = 0.32 mach
700 cfm = 288 mph = 0.37 mach
740 cfm max = 304 mph = 0.40 mach


2.5" piping
4.90625 sq in = 2.453125 x 2
300 cfm = 100 mph = 0.13 mach
400 cfm = 133 mph = 0.17 mach
500 cfm = 166 mph = 0.21 mach
600 cfm = 200 mph = 0.26 mach
700 cfm = 233 mph = 0.30 mach
800 cfm = 266 mph = 0.34 mach
900 cfm = 300 mph = 0.39 mach
913 cfm max = 304 mph = 0.40 mach

2.75" piping
5.9365625 sq in = 2.96828125 x 2
300 cfm = 82 mph = 0.10 mach
400 cfm = 110 mph = 0.14 mach
500 cfm = 137 mph = 0.17 mach
600 cfm = 165 mph = 0.21 mach
700 cfm = 192 mph = 0.25 mach
800 cfm = 220 mph = 0.28 mach
900 cfm = 248 mph = 0.32 mach
1000 cfm = 275 mph = 0.36 mach
1100 cfm max = 303 mph = 0.40 mach


3.0" piping
7.065 sq in = 3.5325 x 2
300 cfm = 69 mph = 0.09 mach
400 cfm = 92 mph = 0.12 mach
500 cfm = 115 mph = 0.15 mach
600 cfm = 138 mph = 0.18 mach
700 cfm = 162 mph = 0.21 mach
800 cfm = 185 mph = 0.24 mach
900 cfm = 208 mph = 0.27 mach
1000 cfm = 231 mph = 0.30 mach
1100 cfm = 254 cfm = 0.33 mach
1200 cfm = 277 mph = 0.36 mach
1300 cfm max= 301 mph = 0.39 mach

Remember that CFM is independent of density.   Figuring N/A 425 flywheel HP, 2.2 cfm/HP, that's around 925 cfm, which is about right for 2.5" piping (right on the edge, but going a touch over isn't the end of the world).   Now figure I want 650 RWHP.  That's ~765 HP.   If I'm running ~11 lbs of boost at the same relative air pressure, I'm flowing about the same CFM of more densely charged air.

Essentially I may need another lbs or so of boost because of smaller tubing, but it's unlikely to be a limiting factor in an engine which has a maximium bottom end capacity of ~800 flywheel anyway.  FWIW if I went to 3" tubing, I'd be required to add ~5 more 90* bends and 2' of length to it, which would negate some of the efficiency of my minimal bends/short length system.

Remember flow volume through the charge pipe and TB is tied to engine size, rpm, and VE. (Positive air pump)

Add boost and nothing changes other than small change in VE, usually lower

2.5 is just fine

Take a 302 at 7500rpm and 100%VE..... 655cfm through the TB

Same engine at same 7500rpm and 100%VE but at 30psi of boost..... We still have the same 655cfm through the TB, we have just increased the density 3 fold

Still 655cfm through charge pipe...... But 1965 cfm flowing into compressor inlets

[zbrown]

Sorry I see you said the same lol, I only saw the first sentence and it got my brain going lol