Blake's 1965 Mustang Project

[Exidous]

It's just a cheap pneumatic vacuum bleeder from Harbor Freight.

https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html

I made an adapter for the master out of a rubber stopper from the hardware store.  I just push it down into the master reservior opening by hand and hold a little tension on it, then press the button on the bleeder.

That's the same unit I have.  It works great for flushing and bleeding brakes too.
I just used a Mityvac kit to put vacuum on the master cylinder.  I left it under vacuum for several days before it finally got my clutch pedal solid.

Just off the master cap?

[digitalsolo]

Took the car out today.   First off I washed it, as it was disgusting with all the fabrication dust.  It still needs a proper detail, but at least I can touch it without damaging the paint.

First drive findings:
Brakes were not quite bled as well as I thought.  Rears locked before the fronts (it's wet out, which doesn't help, but still).
Tach wasn't working.
CAN system still resetting the keypad, which also resets power steering.
Speed was all over the place and seemed grumpy.
Lurches/surges as RPM come up.
Indicators not working on Haltech dash.
Clutch feels great!
Steering feels great at less than 20 MPH anyway.

Took it back to the garage after about 1/2 mile to fix those.  Here's where I'm at now:
Had my son help me with traditional brake bleeding up front.  There was just a little air in each caliper, pedal feels better now, should be fine.   So the master bleed got 98% out, but not 100%.
CAN system reset is being triggered by my CAN button input controller (for the steering wheel buttons).  I'm going to see if I can just move that to the other CAN input channel on my control box.  For now it's just unplugged and everything is fine.
Reconfigured speed settings in the ECU to disable front sensors for now (they're not installed yet).  I'll come back to this later, but it's not needed until I reconfigure traction control.
Tach was misconfigured in the ECU.  Re-enabled pull-up resistor and setup PPR and it's fine now.
Dash config was all wonky.  Redid the setup and indicators work properly now.
Adjusted transient throttle tuning to address surging.

I think that should get me ready for another test drive tonight to see how progress is coming.  I think it should be 90% of the way there.  I'll disable the VVT if the surging persists, I've found I need to get fueling a little closer at lower RPM before I enable VVT or it gets ...surge-y...   I need to setup the fuel level in the Haltech dash at some point as well.

I did check and can't find any apparent leaks in the car, so that's a great start.  Oil/fuel pressure are good and the engine sounds/feels smooth and healthy.   I wish I made it this far along about 6-8 weeks ago so that I had more time to manage these issues before I store the car, but it is what it is.

[Exidous]

Recently setup an ic-7 on my buddies FD. Assuming a 0-90 or 90-0 you're best off using an external pull-up with around 360ohms. The 1kohm doesn't allow much resolution. You'll also want to be sure the voltage with a multimeter with everything hooked up. The ic-7 has no live data and updates are dumb slow.

[digitalsolo]

This one is run to a PD16, so I should be able to manage it in there.

I did do a little test drive after the updates today and it’s running better.  Tune is still problematic at 2500-3000 or so, and cam timing is being wonky.  Brakes and general drivability are better though.

Working on the tune and I’ll try to take the car out a few times next week and keep dialing it in.

[digitalsolo]

More progress, hoping this kind of info is helpful to someone else eventually.

1.  Cam timing.   After reviewing the logs, I found the apparent issue: Bank 2 O2s were way off from bank 1 when I had the cams active, but when I disabled them, the O2s leveled out.   So, that's not great, but why?  Turns out bank 2 had no cam position information at all.  This looks like another result of the Elite -> Nexus migration.   Hall sensor config got lost in the config.  I fixed that in the tune, and will test it again tonight/tomorrow.

2.  Tuning.  My data here is a little questionable because of the cam timing issues, but it looks like the car is going fat around 2500 RPM and up, in the 40-80 kpa (absolute).  I found a corresponding "bump" in the fuel table in that range so I pulled that back down.   With the cam issues sorted, and this dialed, I expect the car should start to behave better.

Other issues I found; speedo is a mile off in the tune, it thinks I hit 17,000 kph on my test drive, which I don't think I did.   I think this is another "sensor adjustment" issue, combined with the need to re-run the calibration, though the PPM looks right, so that's "odd".   The acceleration curve looks right though, so it's reading the reluctor, just scaling (very) wrong.

Outside of that, the car smoked my Chrysler PWM fan controller.  Not sure why, perhaps it couldn't take the amp draw?   It definitely smoked a FET in it, as now the fan runs 100% when I plug it in.   I'm going to move to a different PWM controller, but for now I just plug the module in when I go for a drive, LOL.

[Exidous]

No related I'm sure but I had a weird glitch in the ECU on my buddies still rotary FD. The rear gear ratio was throwing the speed off. Needed to change the rear to something like 0.89:1 to get the Speedo accurate. Tire size and reflector were right. Just couldn't get it right.

[Jordan Innovations]

Dude I am so impressed with your progress!  I wish I'd been keeping up better with my stuff.
So excited to see this thing rolling again

[digitalsolo]

No related I'm sure but I had a weird glitch in the ECU on my buddies still rotary FD. The rear gear ratio was throwing the speed off. Needed to change the rear to something like 0.89:1 to get the Speedo accurate. Tire size and reflector were right. Just couldn't get it right.

It's something stupid like that in this case, I'm sure.  Most of the issues I've been working through are sensors that didn't keep pull-ups enabled, or reset VR/Hall settings, etc. when I migrated from the Elite to the Nexus ECU.   I should probably have sat down and went through all the config side by side, but, oh well, it's almost sorted now at least.

I am super happy with the Nexus ECU as a whole, and they just announced better integration with their dash, and the ability to use it as an input expander + customize the dash screens more, so that's great.   Haltech's constant improvement of existing products is better than the other ECUs I've used by far, and I've used quite a few (BS3, ProEFI, AEM, Haltech).   I'm excited to play with a MaxxECU in the Aston also, as they seem great.  I'm less excited to have to use HP Tuners on the stock ECU in that car though (piggyback setup).

[kinger]

No related I'm sure but I had a weird glitch in the ECU on my buddies still rotary FD. The rear gear ratio was throwing the speed off. Needed to change the rear to something like 0.89:1 to get the Speedo accurate. Tire size and reflector were right. Just couldn't get it right.

I am super happy with the Nexus ECU as a whole, and they just announced better integration with their dash, and the ability to use it as an input expander + customize the dash screens more, so that's great.   Haltech's constant improvement of existing products is better than the other ECUs I've used by far, and I've used quite a few (BS3, ProEFI, AEM, Haltech).   I'm excited to play with a MaxxECU in the Aston also, as they seem great.  I'm less excited to have to use HP Tuners on the stock ECU in that car though (piggyback setup).

Thats great I so want to play with a Haltech and a MaxxEcu someday!

[Esser]

Haltech and Holley are def the most user friendly. You can just put around in the screens and figure it out in minutes

[digitalsolo]

If Haltech had open CANbus and Direct Injection, they'd be the perfect ECU for my needs.   

Haltech customer support is excellent.   It's no comparison to AEM, which was better than ProEFI, which itself was better than BS3.  All of them were better than my experience with HP Tuners though.

[digitalsolo]

Regarding the PWM controller I smoked, I am not sure if it was just not up to the amp load of the fan, or if I ran the PWM outside of spec and killed it.

Either way, I'm moving to the Siemens/VDO unit used in C6 Corvettes as those seem to be pretty resilient.   I'm actually using one off a Ford Fusion (2006-2009 I think).   It was more effective to just buy the whole fan assembly, so I guess I have a spare fan now.   Anyway, I'll swap that in place and see if that stays happy.   I think the cooling fan control is the last thing that I know for sure is broken on the car. 

Hopefully I'll have some time Sunday to get that put in, upload the tune fixes and take the car out some more to start dialing in the drivability.

[digitalsolo]

Snuck out at lunch and tested.   Didn't have time to take the car out, but put the new tune in and verified it seems happier with the fueling adjustments and the cam sensor update definitely fixed cam control on the one bank.

I have one cylinder running hotter than the rest.   I'm going to pull the plugs and swap the injector with its neighbor and see what happens.  Could be that I have one EGT slightly off in position, or it could be an injector that's got some crap in it. 

I also received the "C6" fan controller.  It's a chonky boy.  I probably need to drop the valence to wire it in properly, so I'll look at that Sunday.  Once I sort the injector swap and that, I'm hoping the car is fairly sorted to put some miles on before I have to immediately shove it in storage for the winter.

I also changed (mentally) my shut down procedure. Since I use the keypad to start the car now, and a button to "enable" ignition, I can shut off the engine without killing chassis ignition.   This means my scavenge pump can run for 5-10 seconds on shutdown (and on startup) to clear the sump tank.   I'm going to do that each time I turn the car off, and start it, to make sure the tank is as empty as possible before startup.  I think this leakdown into the sump was what caused little bits of oil to pass the turbo seals in the old setup.

[Exidous]

My car accessories stay running for 10sec after I turn the ignition off. MaxxECU controls the PDM. I'd assume Haltech can do the same so you don't have to think about it.

[digitalsolo]

I haven't been able to figure out how to do that with the Haltech as of yet.