Blake's 1965 Mustang Project

[digitalsolo]

Progress..

Trim pots and center console wiring is done.   Shifter and pots are working properly...ish.   Looks like my old trim pot harness had a problem somewhere so only one is getting 5V REF.   I'll tear that apart tomorrow and fix it, and install my voltage gauge, which should finish the interior wiring 100%.

I started today on the driver side "aux" engine harness, which has MAP, Left Front Wheel Speed and the new widebands (LSU 4.9), along with a few spare inputs.  I'm about 75% done with that.   Once that's done, I need to do the passenger side "aux" engine harness which runs cooling fan, right front wheel speed, and the headlights, etc.   This is already 95% done and just needs RFWS added and some pins moved around.    If time permits tomorrow, I should be able to finish both of those, fix whatever is wonky with my MSD voltage booster wiring, and then test fire the engine.   

Once THAT is done, I can rip it apart for the suspension work.  I want to be 100% sure the engine and everything is working properly on the new ECU/wiring before it comes apart, that way I know if something is wrong later, it isn't wiring/ECU related. 

[digitalsolo]

Good news:

Got the voltage booster working, and the passenger side wiring is done.  Headlights, signals, etc. work.   Only thing not done is the cooling fan PWM controller which I'm not going to bother with until I tear it apart.

Bad news:

The kit I bought for the driver side aux connector bulkheads had the wrong "pair" of connectors.   The one is keyed "W" instead of "N", which means they fit together fine when there are no pins installed (for my test fit) but can't fit once assembled.   Super.   So I ordered a new connector and it will be here Friday.  Once I re-pin that, the car should be ready to start/run.

In the meantime I'm working on my microcontroller software to fix a few bugs where turning on the turn signals makes the headlights go out, etc.  LOL.    I should have that done today/tomorrow sometime.   Hopefully this weekend it's running, I can validate the last of the sensors/wiring is all good and then start tearing it down for suspension work and engine upgrades.

[Cobranut]

Good news:

Got the voltage booster working, and the passenger side wiring is done.  Headlights, signals, etc. work.   Only thing not done is the cooling fan PWM controller which I'm not going to bother with until I tear it apart.

Bad news:

The kit I bought for the driver side aux connector bulkheads had the wrong "pair" of connectors.   The one is keyed "W" instead of "N", which means they fit together fine when there are no pins installed (for my test fit) but can't fit once assembled.   Super.   So I ordered a new connector and it will be here Friday.  Once I re-pin that, the car should be ready to start/run.

In the meantime I'm working on my microcontroller software to fix a few bugs where turning on the turn signals makes the headlights go out, etc.  LOL.    I should have that done today/tomorrow sometime.   Hopefully this weekend it's running, I can validate the last of the sensors/wiring is all good and then start tearing it down for suspension work and engine upgrades.

Blake,

If those are Canon or Amphenol connectors, I think you can disassemble and rotate the inserts to set the clocking.
They have an internal snap ring that holds them together.  A bit fiddly to get apart, but they go back together easily.

[digitalsolo]

Mind = blown.    Thank you!!!!!

[digitalsolo]

So, finished up the new wiring harness work, turned the key and... no start.

Not sure what's going on just yet.   All sensors are reading properly, I have voltage on coils and plugs.  The Haltech built in o-scope shows inputs for crank/cam are good and I have full sync.   Injector tests work fine, and scope appears to show coil driver outputs working.   I emailed Haltech to see if there was anything I obvious I should know from the change.   I'll do a spark plug test soon also and see if I have spark at the plugs, but I can't see why I wouldn't, I had the same drivers/driver harnesses last time.

Anyway, I'm sure I'll sort it out soon, next weekend at worst.    We'll see...

[digitalsolo]

Fixed it.   I'm stupid.

I drew up my connector backwards for the high amperage (25A) power from the PDM/ECU.   It runs 4 things:

1.  Ign coils
2.  Injectors
3.  HVAC (blower motor)
4.  Stereo amp

I have it programmed to disable HVAC and amplifier during cranking.   Which is great.  Unless you flipped your output mappings and you have it disabling power to IGN and INJ during cranking.   Had my son crank it while I held a plug/coil to ground and saw it spark when he stopped cranking every time.   Damn.

In minor fairness to me, I did check that with a meter.   But since these outputs are all half bridge outputs, it'll hold a float voltage of battery level with 0 load (like a meter) even after the FET closes, unless you put a load on it to drag it back down.   So I saw 13V during cranking, because it technically had 13V, just no amperage output.    Anyway, I went in and re-mapped the outputs to their proper functions and it fired up on the touch of the key, just like before.

Then it died.   Then I realized I forgot to enable my fuel pumps when RPM > 0 after priming.   Whoops.   Easy fix, runs "ok" now, if a little stumbl-y, but that's likely just tuning.   I'll check the plugs/pipes this week and make sure it's firing on all 8 and that everything works, then I should be able to tear it apart this coming weekend for the suspension work.

[Exidous]

These goofs are exactly where I'll be before spring. Whole car is a MAXXECU PDU and leash 8 relay 70A board.

All easy to make mistakes.

[Cobranut]

Fixed it.   I'm stupid.

I drew up my connector backwards for the high amperage (25A) power from the PDM/ECU.   It runs 4 things:

1.  Ign coils
2.  Injectors
3.  HVAC (blower motor)
4.  Stereo amp

I have it programmed to disable HVAC and amplifier during cranking.   Which is great.  Unless you flipped your output mappings and you have it disabling power to IGN and INJ during cranking.   Had my son crank it while I held a plug/coil to ground and saw it spark when he stopped cranking every time.   Damn.

In minor fairness to me, I did check that with a meter.   But since these outputs are all half bridge outputs, it'll hold a float voltage of battery level with 0 load (like a meter) even after the FET closes, unless you put a load on it to drag it back down.   So I saw 13V during cranking, because it technically had 13V, just no amperage output.    Anyway, I went in and re-mapped the outputs to their proper functions and it fired up on the touch of the key, just like before.

Then it died.   Then I realized I forgot to enable my fuel pumps when RPM > 0 after priming.   Whoops.   Easy fix, runs "ok" now, if a little stumbl-y, but that's likely just tuning.   I'll check the plugs/pipes this week and make sure it's firing on all 8 and that everything works, then I should be able to tear it apart this coming weekend for the suspension work.

HAHAHA
Reminds me of when I was a kid and just got a Jeep.
I wired the trailer plug and hooked up my trailer to check the lights. All was good until I checked the turn signals, I had looked at the back of the connector and hooked them up backwards.  I was standing there behind the thing laughing at myself. LOL

[kinger]

Fixed it.   I'm stupid

Had one of those on Monday actually...Configuring my Motec for my twin charged snowmobile and I lost MAP signal and TPS% and I was dumbfounded for about a hour, then realized I had unplugged a connection on the other side of the sled to get access to wire LOL 

I was testing voltages and grounds, etc...what a waste of time because I am a moron! 

[digitalsolo]

Yeah, the problem is something simple 100% of the time.   The hard part is just finding the simple thing that's wrong. 

I'm starting on the tear down of the car for the suspension upgrade now.   I bought a Sikky inline hydraulic handbrake for the car as well.   Mostly because with the electric parking brake, I have no way to use any handbrake functions currently.   Plus I'm a child, and it looks fun.   Also, it was on sale.   

[Cobranut]

Yeah, the problem is something simple 100% of the time.   The hard part is just finding the simple thing that's wrong. 

I'm starting on the tear down of the car for the suspension upgrade now.   I bought a Sikky inline hydraulic handbrake for the car as well.   Mostly because with the electric parking brake, I have no way to use any handbrake functions currently.   Plus I'm a child, and it looks fun.   Also, it was on sale.   

Every 12 year old's favorite toy. 

[digitalsolo]

So, on my ever growing list of "tweaks"...

I was pulling my sequential shifter assembly out and, well that job SUCKS.    See, the setup I have is for a GT500 (because my trans is from a GT500), and mounts differently in that chassis than mine.   What this means is that I have to pull the shifter off the tunnel plate I built, then pull the tunnel plate, then I have to take the shifter apart, which requires lifting it as far off the plate as it can move (about 1") then BARELY fit an allen key under it, blind, to take out some countersunk bolts, so that I can take the gasket/seal off, then take the shift rods out, THEN it can come out.   It SUCKS to do.

Soooo, I'm going to get rid of the intermediary plate that would bolt to the tunnel in a GT500, but gets in the way on my car, and "flip" the threading, so that instead of bolting in from underneath, it will bolt down from the top, which sucks less.   I'll 3D print a little spacer to make up the gap that the old plate filled up so that everything stays in place.    Anyway, little things to annoy me less later!

Progress wise, I have everything stripped, ready to pull the engine.    I'll get that this week I hope.    Then to start burning through cutoff wheels.

[digitalsolo]

Old suspension cleared out:



New subframe prepared:



I TIG'd on endplates to the open "framerails" on the firewall side, then trimmed down the new subframe and mocked it up:



Working on building up the suspension now, to check everything out fully.   Once that's done, I'll validate it's square one more time, then weld it to the endplates and the "frame rails" on the forward side.    Once that's done, I plan to build some angled gussets along all of the areas where the two subframes meet.



Wheel seems to be in the appropriate place, per my measurements:



Brakes in progress also:

[Exidous]

That's some serious resto mod goin' on.

[digitalsolo]

Got the subframe welded in place.   Just a few small welds to brace it in the correct alignment while I work on the plates to lock it in properly.  I've measured it up about 1000x times, still perpetually uncomfortable with it.   I did determine that my passenger fender is "off" a little bit as the wheels measure correct to the inner frame rails (stock) and my new frame, but look slightly off side to side compared to the fender lip.   I don't know if it's because of factory vs. repop fender, or the inner aprons that the previous owner replaced, but as all the other panel gaps line up, I think it's a difference in the "bow" of the fender lip from side to side that is slightly more aggressive on the stock fender.

Anyway, it's like 1/8" or so at peak, so it's not something you can see just looking at it, but it bugs me a little so I'm sure I'll try to either pull the "in" fender lip out a little, or tweak the other side inward slightly (or a bit of both) to dial the gap in.   I always thought it was something in my old suspension but everything checks out dead square (well, within a mm) so it's not that.

Beyond that, the whole subframe is mocked up in place with the suspension arms, swaybar and rack in place.   Looks good so far.   I need to validate swaybar clearance with my planned bracing next, then get it all plated in so that it's ready for engine fitment.   Then it's break time to do the engine upgrades, mostly the new pan, so that I can figure out how much work I've made for myself on mounts, charge pipe routing, etc.    I kinda want to do hard lines for the wastegates that run up the trans and under the intake manifold, but we'll see how exhausted I am after the other bits...

Good news so far is that I haven't had to hack up the engine bay paint NEARLY as much as I expected, so I should just be able to re-spray the bottom 4-6" of the bay that you can't see anyway.   I plan to just hit it all in Steel-It black as it is close enough to my existing engine bay paint and then I don't have to buy new 2K paint and deal with all of that for such a small job.