Blake's 1965 Mustang Project

[digitalsolo]

This:  https://ecumasterusa.com/products/dual-h-bridge-module?variant=13733641191485

[Exidous]

I know they weren't available when you set it up but the Haltech DCMD or Link Razor PDM would be good options now.

[digitalsolo]

The DCMD can't do the amp based stop/reset for determining "locked" and "released' positions that I use on the ECUMaster.   I had a long talk with Haltech at PRI last year about it, and they looked at me like I was speaking Greek when I mentioned it and talked about building a great big circuit to do what I can do with a checkbox on the ECUMaster. 

[Exidous]

That's odd. Current is how I have the stop set for my exhaust valve with the MaxxECU. You'd think it would be a really easy was to control a motor.

[digitalsolo]

Agreed ^^^

I've been working on wiring more this weekend, off and on.   I now have the following systems sorted:

Inputs:
Headlights/Brights
Turn Signals
Hazards
Horn
Brake Pedal (pressure sensor based instead of switch now)
Clutch Switch
DBW Pedal
DBW TB
Keypads
Flex Fuel Sensor
Ignition Button

Outputs:
Tails
Brakes
Rear turn signals
Lift pump for fuel
Interior 12V Power
EPAS ECU power

Next up:

Validate brushless pump
Install relays for EPAS motor power and starter
Wire/test EPAS and starter relays
Wire EPAS motor power
Test all engine sensors
Update wiring and test front passenger chassis harness (headlights, turn signals, cooling fan, right front wheel speed sensor)
Build subharness for front driver chassis harness (MAP sensor, LSU 4.9 wideband sensors, left front wheel speed sensor)

Then I need to setup the power window/power door lock wiring, stereo wiring (easy) and HVAC wiring (mostly just get the A/C control system "lined up" in order).

Last but not least, I need to finish the software that does the CAN translation and parking brake stuff.   Parking brake code isn't present currently, and my code can only handle one button pressed at a time, so if the headlights are "on" I can't use a turn signal or horn.   I don't think that'll be too big of a deal to sort out though.

Once all that's done, I will make sure that all of the electrical systems in the car are working properly, then start tearing everything apart for the front suspension replacement.   I want to finish "part 1" before starting "part 2" so that I'm sure it was all good before I took it apart.

[Cobranut]

Here's an idea, with all that control, you could make all the lights in/on the car dance with the music you're playing. 

[Exidous]

Which EPAS system? The one I got already has the relay built into the control box. Just connect to battery and a 12v enable.

[digitalsolo]

It’s a GM setup off of a Saturn Vue.   I have it setup with a master override in the CAN keypad so that I can shut it off completely if I want to, that’s what the relay is for.

I had a torque sensor wire fail once and jerk the wheel, so I want a “screw this thing” button.  .   I redid all of the wires and potted them in epoxy so risk is very low, but not zero.

[digitalsolo]

Got a few hours in today.   I found a spot to mount the EPAS relays.   There is precious little space behind the dash of a class car to fit all the crap I've got in there and keep it sane/serviceable.   My old setup was a little bit of a mess, so I've been trying hard to keep this one cleaner, with the intent to not have a burning desire to redo it again.

There was a "hole" next to the passenger door hinge pillar beside the glovebox (which will be CAN stuff, more on that later).   So I fabbed a little bracket to hold the relays in that spot.  It mounts to the little plate that sits under the glovebox that holds my power window controllers, power door lock controller and ground distribution block.   I'm using these 70 AMP relays from BMW (they're available generically as well and are dirt cheap for a 70 amp relay).



So those are in and wired up, and I now have functional electric power steering, including an override button on the keypad to shut it off if I want to.    The starter also works properly, based on another keypad input, with full ECU control over it's behavior.   It requires a foot on the brake just like a modern factory vehicle and has all the insights to prevent engagement with engine running, etc.

In regard to the CAN stuff, it was kind of thrown in behind the center console before, which is half-assed.   This time around I'm going to use the glovebox to hold most of it.   My glovebox is a fabricated aluminum box that used to hold fuseboxes, when the car still used fuseboxes for things.   So now it's an empty box.   I'll drop the CAN distribution box, tire pressure monitor brain and the wireless steering wheel control in there.   The Arduino box will live behind the center console with the stereo amplifier, and that should cover all of those bits in a nice, serviceable and managed manner.

All engine sensors I've tested so far seem to be reading properly, and I get crank/cam sync when I crank the engine over, so far so good there.  I need to double check injector/coil 12V at the engine and build some harness breakouts for the coil igniters (Coyote has dumb coils so I have some Acura Integra drivers under the dashboard).   Once that's done, I'll probably go ahead and get the MAP and widebands in and sort out the brushless primary fuel pump stuff so that I can fire the engine, just to make me feel better. 

I think I'm a week or two from that point, and 3-4 weeks from finishing up the wiring.   Then it's on to the suspension.

[digitalsolo]

Thinking through it….  While the engine is out I’m going to do fresh timing chains (Comp Cams heavy duty), MMR billet main guides, steel secondary guides, Boss 302 tensioners a billet main timing gear and a billet trigger wheel.

Also looking at a GT500 baffled oil pan and high output pump with billet gears.

Escalation?  What escalation?

[shainiac]

[Exidous]

Ha. At least it's creep going into winter.

[digitalsolo]

Progress:

Power door locks/remote are working (kinda important since I shaved the door locks).
Power window control modules are wired in.   This... was slightly complicated.

So, I've talked about this before, but, these power windows have been an obsession of mine to improve since the start of this build.    I'm using these, from Australia (like half of my car):



They basically just need a high amp power/ground, some switched inputs, and then they have an output for 2 windows per module (so I have 2 modules).   The problem came in that they need a 12V switched input for signal.   Seriously, who switches 12V for input?   I didn't realize that until I went to build the harnesses.   Not a big deal, except the BMW switches I use expect to switch ground.   Now THAT wouldn't be an issue, except they use a common input for the switch control and the LED for backlighting.  So if you run 12V to it, you now need to ground switch illumination AND your diode is backwards for backlighting.

So, I tore apart the switches and flipped the diode.   I also needed to swap the illumination circuit to ground switching instead of 12V switching.   That's not a big deal as the PDM in the ECU can sink to ground or run 12V, so that's just a config change.   The only other thing on that circuit (illumination) is the gauges, which have 12V IGN already, so I just need to tweak the wiring on the cluster slightly to ground switch instead of ignition switch gauge backlighting.    Also, when my gauges don't work in 2 weeks when I test them, I can come re-read this and remind myself I forgot to do that... 

I still need to actually wire up the switches to the connector properly, but that's easy stuff.

Anyway, like everything, this took longer than expected, but the wiring is MUCH cleaner than the old 8x relay/4x circuit breaker setup I had, and the modules run the windows more smoothly as well, which is nice.

Next projects are fixing the gauge wiring, swapping out the fuel gauge for a voltage gauge in the cluster (fuel level is in the ECU and digital dash now), and wiring up the HVAC, stereo amplifier and center console bits.   Hoping to get that work done this weekend, and get started on project "how the hell do I fit all this CANbus stuff in my "glovebox".   The answer will be TIG welding and profanity, the volumes of each is yet to be determined.

[digitalsolo]

Okay, final rundown on engine upgrades "while it's out"

GT500 Oil pan (baffled for road racing)
GT500 high flow pump + high flow pickup
Billet gears for GT500 Pump (these break)
Billet primary timing chain gear (these break)
Billet timing chain guides
Boss 302 upgraded tensioners (primary + secondary)
Secondary chain inverter for bank 2 (tensions the other side of the secondary chain)
Billet rear timing cover
Billet trigger wheel + updated pickup
Comp Cams upgraded heavy duty timing chains
"Cooling crossover mod" - Helps coolant flow between banks
"Oil crossover mod" - Helps oil flow between banks

This should let me spin it as hard as I want, particularly since I have upgraded springs already, and little baby cams.   These are all reliability mods, I'm already making more power than the rods/pistons can take if I turn up the boost any more, so no need for performance stuff.

[digitalsolo]

Lots of tedious work means pretty boring updates.

This weekend's progress:

Finished the power window controls.   My passenger side rear window "one touch down" features aren't working for some reason, but driver side does and the front does.   Weird?   I'll figure that out, but the rest all behaves properly.

Glovebox "bracket" I built for the old fuseboxes was cut up and I welded in new panels to fit the CAN hub and the wireless CAN steering wheel controls.  I also mounted the CAN TPMS monitor behind the glovebox in my little wiring area behind the dash with the door lock and window controls.   All that's left to mount properly is the CAN translator box.   I've got a spot for it, just need to figure out how to mount it and the amp together securely in that spot.

That brings me to the amp.   This just needed power/ground from the ECU and I plugged it in and tested.   Works great.   I thought it had died in the old setup, but it turns out a joint had broken in the harness for it and it didn't have good ground.   Anywho, that's stereo "Done" for now.   I want to add some small door speakers in the future, but I'm not worried about it right now.   I do have wires IN the doors for it.

Gauges are installed and working, though I need to pull the fuel level out and swap in the voltage gauge.   That came in a few days ago from Speedhut, matched to the rest of the gauges.   I'll get that in this weekend and I can check these off the list.

Annnd, HVAC.  HVAC power and AC controls are installed and tested.   I need to come back now and dress in all the wiring for this stuff as it's the last of the wiring that lives in the dash.    Once I get the CAN translator and amplifier mounted, I'll finish tidying up the wiring.    That and the gauges are the next steps.

Once that's done, I'm going to finish a small harness for the trim pots (I'm not 100% sure I really even want to keep them, I don't use them, but they're setup in the dash parts I machined, so...), and the gear indicator sensor.   Then I need to wire up the coil pack drivers (this is an easy job), and then finish the two engine "aux" harnesses.    I can then test the PWM engine cooling fan controls and start/run the engine/test the last of the chassis.

ALMOST there on the wiring work, then I can yank the engine, do the new oil control and timing system upgrades on it, and get the new front suspension installed/aligned.

Yeehaw.