LT1 in an 85 GSL (FB Drift Car Build with FC knuckles and Ford 8.8)

[freeskier7791]

That won't work... didn't think about the steering box.

The drivers side outlet is right where the box is 

Unfortunately, I am planning on getting either block huggers or long tubes meant for a Nova

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[txgs]

No problem, the radiator mount itself is a granny's piece but I am sure you could fab something similar.  I want to say that is 1" or 1.25" tubing, .065" wall I think with 1/8" steel plates on the ends.  I can try and dig up the template for the end plates but I am not sure if I have it or not

No worries. The specs on the tubing helps and plate size also. As for the template I will mock something up. Thanks Again!

[freeskier7791]

No problem, the radiator mount itself is a granny's piece but I am sure you could fab something similar.  I want to say that is 1" or 1.25" tubing, .065" wall I think with 1/8" steel plates on the ends.  I can try and dig up the template for the end plates but I am not sure if I have it or not

No worries. The specs on the tubing helps and plate size also. As for the template I will mock something up. Thanks Again!

No problem, also make sure that it is a super tight fit.  I know I measured the width before I cut the original bar out, and I had to use a large mallet to install it after I cut the bar out.

[txgs]

I agree, I will definitely will make it tight before I cut out the factory brace.

[freeskier7791]

Well things are not going well, looks like engine is seized, maybe I spun a bearing, lots of metal in the valley.  Also cylinder 6 had som water and rust in it, Im thinking this was my headgasket issue

Any advice? Should I do new rings and get a hone, do you think the crank is ok?



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[gadzooks]

There's no telling until you pull the pan, but if the crank isn't too bad you can get a shop to turn it down by about .010" and run undersized bearings. I would send everything in for a rebuild seeing how the heads will probably need to be milled to remove any warpage

[freeskier7791]

There's no telling until you pull the pan, but if the crank isn't too bad you can get a shop to turn it down by about .010" and run undersized bearings. I would send everything in for a rebuild seeing how the heads will probably need to be milled to remove any warpage

Thanks for the advice, I wouldn't have to touch the pistons or rods right?  All the other cylinders look great and still have crosshatching except for#6 which is a shame.  I was already planning on sending the heads in for a valve job and to get 0.005" taken off as well.  I will take some pictures when I pull the pan and see how bad the bottom end is.

[freeskier7791]

Not good! Crank and caps have large gouges and the pan was full of metal!



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[Cobranut]

Sorry to see that. 

To be positive, it looks like it's getting closer to time for an LS swap.

[freeskier7791]

Sorry to see that. 

To be positive, it looks like it's getting closer to time for an LS swap.

Lol it is, calling a local place that is advertising 5.3s for 600 bucks, may be cheaper to buy that and add a cam and go from there

[txgs]

Would love to see another LS powered FB

[freeskier7791]

Finished stripping the block last night and was surprised to see such minimal damage to the mains!  I think a line hone will clean everything up nicely. 



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[freeskier7791]

Block and rods at the machine shop.  Working on getting some aluminum heads.  Thinking of getting ARP main bolts and rod studs for high rpm security.

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[gadzooks]

good time for a nice cam and some 30# injectors(my 355 LT1 with  LT4 Hot Cam and 1.6 roller rockers hits 90% duty cycle on stock injectors above 6000 RPM)

[freeskier7791]

Ordered a Comp 503 cam today!  Will need to look at injectors

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