FD Explorer 8.8 Diff Kit

[Jordan Innovations]

I have a question about drive shaft length. Is everyone able to reuse their drive shaft with a new pinion flange. I will be installing my Differential next weekend and the drive shaft is the only thing I have left to worry about.

Also is there a picture of what the cv axle spacers looks like?

With my DSS driveshaft, the new mounting flange was approx 1/4" further forward than the stock diff, once I changed universals and flanges.  I was able to re-use my CV shaft (baaaarely), but if you had a T56 with a decent amount of yoke sticking out of the trans, you should be OK.

[markfluko]

I reused my DSS driveshaft from Samberg and only changed the diff flange via U-joint/ford flange.

Used a Spicer 1310 u joint IIRC.

[Adam P]

So are you guys going to offer a high volume diff cover as icing on the cake. 

[Jordan Innovations]

So are you guys going to offer a high volume diff cover as icing on the cake. 

I could do one (fabricated would work fine since cover isn't stressed much with the steel mounting plate in there), but I'd rather just see you do a cooler and a pump if you were worried about diff temps

[largeorangefont]

So are you guys going to offer a high volume diff cover as icing on the cake. 

I could do one (fabricated would work fine since cover isn't stressed much with the steel mounting plate in there), but I'd rather just see you do a cooler and a pump if you were worried about diff temps

Word..
Another 4-8 oz of gear oil is not going to help much.  Wrap your exhaust and install a catch can, then monitor diff temps to see if you even need a cooler.

[markfluko]

I did an autox practice this past weekend and it was 90 *F + ( I forget exact temp), and I was spitting out fluid from the breather tube.

I also don't have a rubber hose on the breather tube to prevent it from sloshing out on hard left turns, and I am pretty sure I overfilled it by a good margin when I was first filling it up by accident.

So it is kind of hard to say if it was over heating or just too over filled. I am going to put a hose on it and check the fluid is at proper level for the next autox practice, which will probably be in the 100 *F range knowing TX. The practices are all day driving so it's a good time for a shake down of everything.

I will report back after the next one, but I feel like just a hose on the breather tube aimed out the other direction might fix my problem even if I am over filled. The course was also a lot of fast left handers. I will need to bring my infrared thermometer with me to check out diff cover temps.

IDK, to be determined. Besides my diff being an open diff, I am still loving everything else about the setup.

[largeorangefont]

You will lose fluid out the breather nipple without a looped tube or vent. If you run a tube in this fashion like the Explorers and Cobras do, that will keep you from losing fluid unless you overheat the diff.



I can assure you you didn't over heat the diff doing autoX.

[Jordan Innovations]

You will lose fluid out the breather nipple without a looped tube or vent. If you run a tube in this fashion like the Explorers and Cobras do, that will keep you from losing fluid unless you overheat the diff.

I can assure you you didn't over heat the diff doing autoX.

Ashley again with the knowledge bomb. 

You'll DEFINITELY need a breather tube, mounted up as high as possible.  I've seen quite a few endurance cars that run huge 6an breathers all the way to the top of the roll cage lol.  I did a 1/4" tube that loops up above the top of the subframe and runs up the fuel cell mount to the back of the bumper, but might actually try and run it up even further since I still get some fluid out at "high speed".

I also agree that you're not likely to overheat the diff at Auto-X speeds/loads.  A temp gun on the rear cover will be a good indication, but I plan on putting in a temp sender along with my new OS Giken 1.5way diff soon so we should be able to characterize everything soon.

[largeorangefont]

I've posted this before, but this is my setup. 3/8 hose to Go Kart catch can. They can be had for $15 to $30.

Here is my catch can mounted. I use a sintered bronze air tool filter for the breather. I do not get any gear oil smell in the car. If you get fancy this could probably be mounted under the car or hidden behind interior panels. I just drilled a hole in the floor and ran the tubing to a 3/8 hose barb on the diff. Smaller tubing could easily be substituted.

[Jordan Innovations]

'das it mayne - perfect setup

[markfluko]

Ok great advice on the breather tube, I will definitely be adding that now...

I didn't really think it would be possible to overheat the diff doing autox, but this wasn't a typical autox day, it was a practice where you have unlimited runs where you can do run after run. I would have been really surprised/disappointed if it was overheating, but didn't want to rule it out after doing 6+ consecutive runs.

I think I will opt for the simpler solution of the "J" tube first to see if that remedies my problem...

That is unless spacevomit decides to craft up a series of AN tubes that do a quadruple helix followed by a spiral down through an ice cooler connected to an f-16 filter vented into the gas tank. That should be right up his alley

Don't hold out on me space, I KNOW you got the goods.

[jdm91t]

I reused my DSS driveshaft from Samberg and only changed the diff flange via U-joint/ford flange.

Used a Spicer 1310 u joint IIRC.

Do you have a link to what you bought? I have the samberg FD rear end driveshaft and I want to do the same. Would this work?

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p524_dana_spicer_2_2_1379_large_bolt_pattern_1310_series_flange_y.html

Just pulled the whole rear end out tonight, now just have to weld the supports in and reinstall.

[markfluko]

I reused my DSS driveshaft from Samberg and only changed the diff flange via U-joint/ford flange.

Used a Spicer 1310 u joint IIRC.

Do you have a link to what you bought? I have the samberg FD rear end driveshaft and I want to do the same. Would this work?

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p524_dana_spicer_2_2_1379_large_bolt_pattern_1310_series_flange_y.html

Just pulled the whole rear end out tonight, now just have to weld the supports in and reinstall.

Yup that's the one I used,

Dana Spicer 2-2-1379 FLANGE YOKE 1310 series fits Ford 8.8 inch Rear Ends LARGE BOLT PATTERN

However, I also needed to get a new U-joint that had all outer snap rings (if you noticed it in the Ford flange)... You might be able to find a different flange that has them with the inner snap rings, then you could re use the U-joint on the Samberg DS... otherwise you can't put the flange on it and will need this U-joint to work with it.

That part number is DANA SPICER 5-1310X

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p415_dana_spicer_5_1310x_universal_joint_1310_series_maintenance_.html

and while your at it just get the bolts from there too if you don't have them already.

42-1855

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p359_bolt_set_for_pinion_flange_fits_ford_8.8_inch_rear_ends.html

[markfluko]

whoops

[jdm91t]

Sweet thanks Mark, If I can't find a different flange then I'll just get that one and the U joint to go with it. $15 bucks isn't a big deal though all things considered. And I noticed my samberg DS u-joint was leaking grease, anyone else notice this? Is the samberg u-joint not maintenance free? Just curious because it might be a good idea to change the U-joint anyway if it's going to leak grease everywhere.