NXTFab first shop build! FC lq9 / th400

[NXTFab]

Thx man. The stuff that was on there before was so bad!    It wasnt even welded in some areas, it was braized! We had to work with what we had to be honest.  Wanted to keep the radiator support cut out but at least add some sort of support.

[NXTFab]

More items removed toniggt. Got the car up on the lift and got the fuel tank down. Taking the tank, straps, filler neck and heatshields off to save some weight.

[NXTFab]

[NXTFab]

Major update!
1. Sorted out a ton of wires, and random brackets that were on the car from the previous owner. (ghetto shifter mount, random wires and solenoids to god only knows what, brackets that mounted... NO IDEA haha)
2. We pulled the carpet completly out. It was way way beyond saving. wile in there we also pulled 80% of the sound deadening for now.
3. Pulled the diff and axles out. (for sale 100 bucks for NA diff + axles)
4. Also cut the front "crossmember" out where the horns mount.

Cutting the crossmember was not a weight saving thing, in fact its prob a pound heavier but the factory piece is big and bulky. The new bar we put in is also hollow witch is going to allow us to run the wires through it to realy tuck the wires nicely.

factory:



For the new bar we cut 2 square holes to pass the bar through the "frame" and then welded it on the inside and outside. It made it extremly strong!




here it is temp painted and with trans cooler mounts on it.

[1320king]

Sub

[NXTFab]

Trans cooler and radiator mounts all set. picking up the rubber washers tonight then final mounting and reasembly.
 

 

 
Bumper is just sitting on there not bolted down just to get an idea of look and fitment. and YES the cooler is offset for a reason. trying to reduce the amount of line needed so put it closer to the rail where its going to be coming from
 
 

[digitalsolo]

Work looks good so far.   Make sure you duct that front end.

[NXTFab]

Were thinking of cutting the molding between the turn signals out and also make a lower and upper sheet metal plate so it directs air flow.

[NXTFab]

pulled some sound deadening and got about 80% out. we tried heat on the pass side and dry ice on driver side and it was soooooo much better with dry ice and cleaner. Only had enough dry ice for driver side though it was only a small 3lb block.
 

[NXTFab]

Going to start a small log on first post with weight reduction stuff. The sound deadening + carpet was a good 50lbs so far.

this pic is only sound deadening from driver and pass side. still more left in trunk, rear bins, trans tunnel, and foot wells of both sides. felt like a sold 20lbs to be honest. weighed it with other stuff so dont have a sound dead only weight.

[NXTFab]

Started rear end fab tonight. Building a custom triangulated 4link based off a foxbody mustang. Digitalsolo was a huge motivation after seeing his nice work. Made some adjustable upper and lower  mounts that we radiused so we can adjust instant centers at the track in minutes.

Were using a spare diff (thats for sale) for mock up. The diff we have has a moser full spool, 35splined axles, 9" ends, and all the other fun stuff hahaha.

The upper and lower bars are double adjustable, and the upper crossmember we are making is 1 5/8 chromoly

[trickygotmein]

Nice work. keep up the progress and pics. I think im donig my sunroof skin with quick release fasteners.

[1320king]

ya we are currently making one too. were trying to incorporate the factory  "drip pan" just incase some water gets in, it can still drain from the factory drain backs.

[NXTFab]

this is the housing were using for mock up. we have everything leveled, measured squred, over and over and over hahah. everytime i even touched the thing we made sure all the levels were back to normal. this is our first "retrofit" or custom 4 link ever so we want to make sure its 100% right out of the box

[NXTFab]

finished the rear crossmember tonight. It still has to be modified once in the actual car but this is so everything is nice and square when we go to put it all in. Once welded inside the frame rails the center will most likely get cut and modified for drive shaft clearance / loop. And that random flat bar that is welded to it is a level / parallel point. once in the car that bar needs to stay level to the ground for the mounts and everything to line up perfect.


There are probably tons and tons of other ways to do it that are easier, better, etc but being this is our first we went way over kill with leveling, measuring, and that such. We want it perfect the 1st time