87 RX-7 with 156xxx miles
Located in Richmond, VA
I'm looking to get 2500-3000 but I am not 100% set on that amount.
Brief vehicle history:
I purchased this car in March of 2006 with intentions to use it as my DD. The car had been painted just before I purchased it, though it was a pretty cheap job. I soon found that rotaries do not make great DDs. After just about 6 months of ownership, the rotary blew a coolant seal. I sent the engine out to rotary resurrection for a rebuild. The engine came back and was installed, though I found out later that when I reinstalled the LIM, I pinched a water o-ring between the block and the LIM, which caused it to run a little rough. Around that time (late 07/early 08), my friend finished his first FD/LS1 swap, and through his encouragement, I went ahead and pulled the rotary and sold it and all associated parts. I was in college at the time, and greatly underestimated the amount of work, time and money that it would take to complete the swap.
Over the last few years, I have gotten urges to work on the car a few times, and have gotten the swap most of the way complete. During one of these such urges, I felt I was very close to getting the car complete. I cranked it until it should have built oil pressure, but got nothing on the gauge or leaking out of the oil pressure sender hole in the block. I'm not sure if there truly is no oil pressure due to a bad pump, or if I am just missing something (I am leaning towards the former). I tried a bunch of things recommended on ls1tech such as jacking the rear of the car way up in the air to get oil to the pump as well as overfilling the pan with several additional quarts of oil to try to prime the pump. Battery was replaced and full cranking speed was verified during these tests, and nothing.
I do not want to lead you into thinking this car won't be a lot of work, because it will. However, most of the wiring (aside from cooling fans and the fuel pump) is complete, the engine is in, and most/all of the interior is in or is included. What it really needs is some oil pressure and a LOT of TLC. However, for the price (and I am negiotable), I believe that it is not a bad deal.
You'll find a bunch of pictures attached. If there are any other pictures I can get for you or answer any specific questions, I'd be happy to. I've always wanted to finish this car despite family urging me to get rid of it (sell, junk, set on fire, push off cliff etc.) I just am finally seeing that I don't think I will ever have the time or urge to make it happen.
Issues:
Rust:
Rust is not a huge problem for this car aside from the sunroof panel. The rear driver fender has a bit of bubbling as shown and the front passenger fender has a teeny bit of rust, also as shown, as does the rear bumper under the taillights.
Driver Door handle:
I have replaced the door handles already before, but the driver exterior door handle is broken, so you need to get in through the passenger side.
Oil Pressure:
As above, nothing I could think to do got me any oil pressure. I suspect that the oil pump is bad and will need to be replaced/upgraded.
Dirt/Filth:
Not going to lie, this car is very dirty. The pictures actually look pretty good, but the engine bay and all crevices are pretty gross.
Wiring:
Cooling fans and fuel pump need to be wired. Everything else should be set, though I have never tried to start the car, so it could use a once-over.
Tires:
The tires hold air, but you will not want to drive on them more than around a neighborhood block if that. They are old and dry-rotted.
10AE badging on fender:
This car is not a 10AE and has no other 10AE parts. Not sure where these fenders came from or the impetus for their being put on this car.
Parts Details:
Engine:
Purchased from a friend who purchased from a friend who purchased from ls1tech. I had the pan off before putting this in the car to install ARP rod bolts, and things looked very clean. Also, when cranking without plugs to try for oil pressure, compression sounded very loud and uniform. I can't speak to mileage or true condition, aside from not building oil pressure. Engine is from a 2000 Camaro.
Transmission:
T-56 from an 01 Firebird. Has never run under my possession, but has been fully sealed and filled with transmission fluid for the time I have had it. Clutch is bled, and transmission feels good shifting as it is. That being said, most cars shift correctly when they are not running. I feel pretty confident in the transmission.
Clutch/Flywheel:
LS2 flywheel, LS7 Clutch/PP purchased new (I can't remember from where) that was installed at same time as engine/tranny. Has been sealed the whole time. Could maybe stand a resurfacing, but I haven't cracked it open to check since it was installed.
Radiator:
Hinson dual fan setup, as seen in pictures. I purchased this new, and it has never been run. Could use a bit of cleanup, but other than that, should be ready to go.
Fuel system:
Also Hinson. Aeromotive FPR, braided lines from front to back. Walbro pump that needs wiring completed before it is ready.
Master Cylinder:
Hinson as well. Standard bore size with Hinson clutch line. Clutch was fully bled and this was working perfectly before oil pressure problem.
Driveshaft:
Hinson Driveshaft. Lightweight and perfect length.
Mounting Kit:
Hinson as well. I'm not sure if there are revisions to the design, but this one is definitely old.
Exhaust:
- Heat wrapped old style JTR long tubes for slip fit y pipe (no v-band or flange).
- Racing beat dual catback with y pipe (I had in mind header->y->cat/tp->y->racing beat mufflers)
Interior:
Most of the interior has been swapped from blue to black, except the seats, carpet, and a few interior plastics. It is dirty, but in good condition overall.
Imgur Album ->
http://imgur.com/a/gusjA/all
