E-Rod LS3 Base FD Build

[viper2oo2]

Low Oil Light
I'm not sure how this light is triggered, maybe grounding or +12V, I haven't looked too much.  I think I don't need to do anything with this wire, but I'd like to have it available in case I want to use it as a warning light.
Blue wire at X12 (gray connector in engine bay on drivers side with 12 pins):
[attach=1]

Low Water Light
This wire needs to be grounded or the light/buzzer will go off.
Brown/White wire at X12:
[attach=2]

Alternator Charge Indicator
I think the alternator needs to be hooked up to a small resistance to work, I believe hooking the alt up to this wire will serve the same purpose and will let the alternator charge.
White/Black wire at X11 (gray connector in engine bay on drivers side with 4 pins):
[attach=3]

20 Days, 84.5 hours

[Negrok20r]

good info here
did you already buy the ls3?

[viper2oo2]

good info here
did you already buy the ls3?

No I haven't bought it yet, I want to get everything done that I can before I get the engine since I don't have much room to store stuff and there's a 2 year warranty on it from the day I purchase it so I'd like to install the engine as soon as I can after I buy it.  I just need to finish the wiring and mount the fans to the radiator and I think that's all I need to do before I buy the engine.

[viper2oo2]

good info here
did you already buy the ls3?

No I haven't bought it yet, I want to get everything done that I can before I get the engine since I don't have much room to store stuff and there's a 2 year warranty on it from the day I purchase it so I'd like to install the engine as soon as I can after I buy it.  I just need to finish the wiring and mount the fans to the radiator and I think that's all I need to do before I buy the engine.

I actually just ordered it and it's supposed to ship 3/11.  I found a 10% off coupon for summitracing.com and used the coupon to save me $800.

[Negrok20r]

Oh
How much you got it for?
I just order mine from summit as well 7653$ to my door
Where did you find the coupon ?
If I find a coupon they will still take it as least that's what I was told from the rep.

[viper2oo2]

Oh
How much you got it for?
I just order mine from summit as well 7653$ to my door
Where did you find the coupon ?
If I find a coupon they will still take it as least that's what I was told from the rep.

Total price was $7,200 to my door for the manual trans version.  Looks like summit has different prices for different areas because I can't find a price that matches yours. 

I PMed you the info, but in case other people are wondering, summit has been giving out one time use coupons at the World of Wheels and Autorama shows, I'm not 100% sure they still are giving them out and the one I found expired yesterday, but you could probably find someone who picked one up from one of those shows or get one from a show yourself.  I've found a couple people giving extras away on forums and one for sale on ebay (all of which I missed) but eventually found someone giving one away for a donation to a charity and was able to get it.

[viper2oo2]

I bought my stater and clutch and flywheel today.  From what I've seen, people seem to like Monster Clutches so I went with them.  I was debating between the stage 2 and stage 3, I was leaning towards stage 3 because I really like hard griping clutches, but it looks like if you don't use them on the track they will squeal and chatter when used on the street, so I went on the safe side and went for a stage 2 (since it holds more HP than I will have anyway).

Starter, ACDelco 12617229 - $96 Link
Starter Bolt, ACDelco 11610787 - $5 Link
Monster Stage 2 Clutch/Light Flywheel, Pressure Plate and Flywheel Bolts (After MC110 discount) - $645 - Link

I bought an extra bolt for the starter because I think it should come with one, but I need two, if I have to buy another one I will.

My engine is now supposed to ship tomorrow, we'll see if it does, but i think I'm almost ready for it.  I still need to finish the electrical (the starter routing, the battery re-location and the fuel pump wiring), add the reservour to the clutch MC, modify the clutch slave cylinder, mount the fans to the radiator and find a power steering pump pulley (for an 04 GTO).  I think that's just about all I can do before I get the engine.

[whit6438]

Good to see you're engine is on its way soon. I'm payin pretty close attention to this once since it's very similar to my plans/goals. Keep up the good work! 

[viper2oo2]

OK, I've been lazy on updating the thread, but I'll take a little time and show what I've done.

Still on wiring:

Reverse Lights - pg z66 for manual trans, z100 for auto (mine):
Both of the wires will go to the back-up light switch on the T56 (doesn't matter which side). 
Yellow/Blue wire at connector x14 provides power to the switch for the back-up lights (this also powers 3 other things, Dakota Digital, Reverse Lock-out Solenoid and the Accutach). 
[attach=1]
This is the connector for the Back-up Light switch (the side the power wire and the wire to the lights goes to doesn't matter), purchased from Current Performance Wiring
[attach=5]
I ran 1 power wire to the trans, then split it into two for the Back-up light switch and the Reverse Lockout Solenoid.
[attach=4]

Brown/Black wire at connector x14 goes to the back-up lights themselves, needs to be connected to the switch (itwill be powered when the switch is closed, in reverse gear)
[attach=2]
 


Check Engine Light - I tapped into the wire at the EL unit connector (pg z30), it's also shown on z46:
Connector is B1-20 In the passenger foot-well above where the ECU used to be.  I removed the heater blower to get to it (to make it easier, but probably didn't  need to).  The Orange/Black wire is the wire you need to power for the CEL to come on.
[attach=3]

[viper2oo2]

Reverse Lockout Solenoid -  I'm not sure if I've described this before, but what I'm going to use an VSS/OSS T56 Reverse Lockout Unit to control the reverse lockout solenoid (RLS).  The unit connects to the vehicle speed sensor and grounds the solenoid when the signal is at very low frequency or slow (the vehicle is stopped or nearly stopped).  The unit needs 4 connections and the Solenoid needs 1 extra (power, it's grounded by the Accutach):
VSS Connection - This will go to the same speed signal going to the Dakota, which will come from the E-Rod Harness (Brown Wire)

Power (for Accutach and RLS):
Power for both the Accutach and Solenoid come from the Yellow/Blue wire at connector x14  that also provides power to the switch for the back-up lights, Dakota Digital
[attach=1]
The solenoid needs it's own connector (GM part number: 12101857 or ACDelco # PT249) I bought from Current Performance Wiring.
Power goes to one side of the connector (I don't think it matters which side, but I copied what GM had - Power is the red wire, "ground" (to the Accutach) is the yellow).  I ran 1 power wire to the trans then split it to two, one for Back-up Lights and one for the Rev Lockout Solenoid
[attach=3][attach=4]

Ground
Same Ground Connection as Dakota, Black Wire (for Auto anyway) at X05
[attach=2]

Solenoid Connection (To Solenoid Ground)
This comes from the Accutach controller wire (white), just directly connect the two wires.  No picture of it hooked up, but here's the accutach hooked up, I bought a trailer connector from O'Reilly so I can disconnect it easily.
[attach=5]

[viper2oo2]

Oil Pressure Sender (to oil pressure gauge) - on page z44 of the manual
Gray/Red wire from connector x12, in the engine bay on the drivers side
[attach=1]

I started running the larger wire to the fuel pump and pulled off the rear quarter panel.  I saw it was the original speaker...even though the previous owner had installed an amp, why would he put all that effort/money installing an amp and not replace the speakers???  I actually had 2 rear speakers from another RX7 I had, so I decided to replace them while I had it apart.

I removed the speaker bracket only to find out that the speakers are glued to it, so I ripped them off with some pliers:
[attach=2]

I had to cut the connector and solder on connectors for the new speaker.  For the driver's rear the Yellow/Green is + and the Yellow/Blue is -
[attach=3]

Then installed the new speaker:
[attach=4]

21 days 87.5 hours

[FC3S Murray]

Cant wait to see your shiny brand new engine when it gets in!

[viper2oo2]

Cant wait to see your shiny brand new engine when it gets in!

Got is on Friday, just too busy "playing" with my new toy to post...but since you asked....here are some pictures (they didn't attach correctly, so I just listed them in order):
Being delivered, Stuffed into my garage(x2), Inside the box (that doesn't look like an engine!), Finally...what I've been waiting for! (x2)

[viper2oo2]

OK, I've been busy working on the car and haven't really felt like updating the thread, I've gone through a lot of stuff, so I'll try to post this week to catch up with what I've done.  Apparently you can't easily insert images into the text anymore...so now my post will just have pics at the end.

After unpacking the engine and the associated parts I wanted to modify the EROD harness to mate with the RX7.  Since I was going to drive the stock RX7 cooling fans with the stock relays, I needed to take the EROD ecu's output for the fans and connect it to the stock RX7 relays.

 I found out after going through the wiring that the EROD ecu sends a ground signal to turn on the fans, same as the RX7 ecu, so the extra relay I added (to turn the +12V signal into ground to turn the fans on) wouldn't be needed for the fans.  Luckily though, since I was using the EROD cooling fan relay to run the starter solenoid I needed that added relay to turn the +12V "Start" signal from the starter switch into a ground signal to turn on the old EROD "cooling fan" relay which was now my starter relay. Make sense??

So I found the wires that ran the cooling fan relay (unfortunately there are two wires that go to the same relay, which means I needed to find and splice 2 wires instead of one.  Once I found the wires, I would cut them and splice a wire to each side:
1) The two wires that go to the relay would be connected to the added relay which would turn the "start" +12v signal into a "ground" signal
2) The other side of the wires that goes to the ECU could be connected direcly to the ground side of the RX7 fan solenoids.

Pictures:

1) The connectors (I will splice into 2)

2) Shows the green (fan relay) wire I'm going to cut (I'm touching it with the exposed wire)

3) Shows the green (fan relay) wire pulled away from the rest

4) This shows the green wire spliced and the destription of where it goes (the blue and green wires will be spliced together later).  The ECU side will be directly connected to the stock RX7 fan relays and the relay side will be connected to the output side of my added relay that turns the "Start" +12v signal into a ground signal

5) Shows the blue wire at the connector, there are two blue wires, make sure to use the one that doesn't go to the pedal (the one that isn't grouped with other wires in a braided tube)

6) Shows the pin out which shows the multiple blue wires (the bottom one that's underlined is the one we want, to fuse box 7D)

7) Shows the blue wire spliced into with the description of where each go to, same as the green wire (4).

Shows how I checked that I picked the correct wires, I put the ground side of the solenoid to the - side of a 9V battery and touched the wire to the + side, and made sure that the wire was then connected to the power circuit (and also that when the battery wasn't connected the wire was not connected to power)

I also worked on routing a thicker fuel pump wire, but after splicing two wires together (because I bought one that was too short) and screwing up the fuel pump connector (I pulled out the original wire that went to the connector, then tried to epoxy it back in, which failed)  I decided to buy a longer wire and wire the fuel pump up a better way, which I'll show later.

[viper2oo2]

I wired up the start signal to the clutch switch (since mine was originally auto) and from there to my added relay for the new starter relay.

1) Shows the connector, had to splice into the blue/black wire at the start swtich (x03)

2)  Shows how I spliced into the wire, since I used a thick wire (too much for my soldering iron to take) I used a butt connector, covered it and the wires in flux and then soldered it with the torch (all shown in the pic).  I then ran that wire to the clutch switch.

3)  I connected another wire to the other side of the clutch switch and ran that wire (same color) from the other side of the clutch swith behind the dash to run to the relay I added to run the "start" relay on the EROD harness, that was originally the cooling fan relay.


23 days, 103 hours.