February 19, 2025, 06:52:59 PM

Author Topic: UK RHD LS1 8.8 FD Gunnytron's build thread  (Read 252065 times)

Offline digitalsolo

Re: UK LS1 FD Gunnytron's build thread
« Reply #15 on: August 05, 2012, 01:18:03 PM »
LOL, glad that turned out not to be a big deal.   ;)
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...
2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Gen V LT4/TR6060, upper/lower pullies, headers, tune.
2021 Tesla Model 3 Performance - Stock...ish.

Offline Gunnytron

Re: UK LS1 FD Gunnytron's build thread
« Reply #16 on: August 05, 2012, 02:26:19 PM »
Got the car jacked up and the wheels of with the intention of getting the diff out.

Now I don't know if I am doing something wrong but I could get the f****n shafts out the diff. I was putting all my force on the prybar trying to break them apart but the gits won't budge.



« Last Edit: December 09, 2017, 05:42:03 AM by Gunnytron »
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=12880.0
FD, LS1 running 220 3.90 Trickflow heads, Comp Ultra-gold Arc 1.72 Rockers, 7.550 BTR Pushrods, BTR Stage II NA Cam 227/234 .614"/.576" 113+2, ARP Head Bolts, BTR Platinum Springs, Ported FAST 90, NW 90mm TB, FAST 60lb Injectors, Textralia Clutch/Flywheel, T56, Cobra 8.8, 31 spline, trac-loc 3.55 Diff, Holley HP EFI, Racelogic TC.

Offline radiomike

Re: UK LS1 FD Gunnytron's build thread
« Reply #17 on: August 05, 2012, 06:31:59 PM »
You are making life difficult for yourself by trying to remove the diff with the subframe in the car, one brake pipe, 4 bolts and 4 nuts will drop the entire subframe giving easy access to the fuel lines too.  Use 2 prybars at 180 degrees and 'walk' the joints free, they are only held in by a snap ring that sits in a groove. 

If you have a pre 1994 car you may need to weld a couple of brackets to the subframe which is much easier with it removed.

The outer CVs can be a PITA to remove/re-build and need a bit of patience.  Have you managed to find a pair of Cobra inner CVs?

Offline Gunnytron

Re: UK LS1 FD Gunnytron's build thread
« Reply #18 on: August 06, 2012, 02:55:11 AM »
I was hoping to avoid dropping the subframe at this stage as all I wanted to do was drop the diff so I can sell it.

As I don't have the rear diff mount yet I would have to bolt the subframe back in again after I took the diff out so that I can move the car.

I have no idea when the diff mount I want to use will be available. If it is much longer I will have to go the Samberg route. Here's the link to the mount http://www.fduk.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27795&highlight=Cobra

I have the DSS axle kit already. As for welding, I would have to check. If the UK mount ever gets finished I will have to send him my subframe.
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=12880.0
FD, LS1 running 220 3.90 Trickflow heads, Comp Ultra-gold Arc 1.72 Rockers, 7.550 BTR Pushrods, BTR Stage II NA Cam 227/234 .614"/.576" 113+2, ARP Head Bolts, BTR Platinum Springs, Ported FAST 90, NW 90mm TB, FAST 60lb Injectors, Textralia Clutch/Flywheel, T56, Cobra 8.8, 31 spline, trac-loc 3.55 Diff, Holley HP EFI, Racelogic TC.

Offline Gunnytron

Re: UK LS1 FD Gunnytron's build thread
« Reply #19 on: August 06, 2012, 05:11:48 AM »
Finally got my in-tank filter through. Still can't believe this ended up costing me $50  :o

« Last Edit: December 09, 2017, 05:42:33 AM by Gunnytron »
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=12880.0
FD, LS1 running 220 3.90 Trickflow heads, Comp Ultra-gold Arc 1.72 Rockers, 7.550 BTR Pushrods, BTR Stage II NA Cam 227/234 .614"/.576" 113+2, ARP Head Bolts, BTR Platinum Springs, Ported FAST 90, NW 90mm TB, FAST 60lb Injectors, Textralia Clutch/Flywheel, T56, Cobra 8.8, 31 spline, trac-loc 3.55 Diff, Holley HP EFI, Racelogic TC.

Offline Scottie-GNZ

Re: UK LS1 FD Gunnytron's build thread
« Reply #20 on: August 06, 2012, 08:25:09 AM »
Imagine if you had bought it new from Pegasus. that would have been $55 + shipping and all the tax/fees.
Scottie

8.71 @ 156.79


Offline Gunnytron

Re: UK LS1 FD Gunnytron's build thread
« Reply #21 on: August 06, 2012, 08:54:12 AM »
Yeah I know. And it's do small :)
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=12880.0
FD, LS1 running 220 3.90 Trickflow heads, Comp Ultra-gold Arc 1.72 Rockers, 7.550 BTR Pushrods, BTR Stage II NA Cam 227/234 .614"/.576" 113+2, ARP Head Bolts, BTR Platinum Springs, Ported FAST 90, NW 90mm TB, FAST 60lb Injectors, Textralia Clutch/Flywheel, T56, Cobra 8.8, 31 spline, trac-loc 3.55 Diff, Holley HP EFI, Racelogic TC.

Offline nofxrxmxpx

Re: UK LS1 FD Gunnytron's build thread
« Reply #22 on: August 06, 2012, 04:24:32 PM »
link to that filter sock? I like, a lot.
the candy is dandy

Offline Gunnytron

http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=12880.0
FD, LS1 running 220 3.90 Trickflow heads, Comp Ultra-gold Arc 1.72 Rockers, 7.550 BTR Pushrods, BTR Stage II NA Cam 227/234 .614"/.576" 113+2, ARP Head Bolts, BTR Platinum Springs, Ported FAST 90, NW 90mm TB, FAST 60lb Injectors, Textralia Clutch/Flywheel, T56, Cobra 8.8, 31 spline, trac-loc 3.55 Diff, Holley HP EFI, Racelogic TC.

Offline Gunnytron

Re: UK LS1 FD Gunnytron's build thread
« Reply #24 on: August 07, 2012, 02:58:22 PM »
Well, I don't know what all the fuss was about. This evening I went to the garage with the intention of getting the exhaust back box unbolted and gave the drive shafts another go.

Low and behold they popped off with ease. And that was with the exhaust in the way too. The only things I did different were that I was right on my back underneath with a 20mm pry bar instead of a 60mm. I also got it right in the thin gap between the shaft and the diff (I didn't do this before as I was worried about damaging it). Anyway, that combo worked a treat.

Of coarse, I couldn't get the f***n exhaust bolts off. You win some you loose some :)

I am not looking forward to the hub nuts either.
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=12880.0
FD, LS1 running 220 3.90 Trickflow heads, Comp Ultra-gold Arc 1.72 Rockers, 7.550 BTR Pushrods, BTR Stage II NA Cam 227/234 .614"/.576" 113+2, ARP Head Bolts, BTR Platinum Springs, Ported FAST 90, NW 90mm TB, FAST 60lb Injectors, Textralia Clutch/Flywheel, T56, Cobra 8.8, 31 spline, trac-loc 3.55 Diff, Holley HP EFI, Racelogic TC.

Offline Gunnytron

Re: UK LS1 FD Gunnytron's build thread
« Reply #25 on: August 13, 2012, 02:34:41 PM »
I managed to get both driveshafts off today. The hub nuts came off easily enough though on one side I had to wedge a screwdriver between the disk and calliper to stop the wheel turning.

One of the drive shafts came out of the hub easily too. The other one is going to need a little more effort.

Sometimes you just need the right tool for the job.


Driveshafts off.
« Last Edit: December 09, 2017, 05:43:35 AM by Gunnytron »
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=12880.0
FD, LS1 running 220 3.90 Trickflow heads, Comp Ultra-gold Arc 1.72 Rockers, 7.550 BTR Pushrods, BTR Stage II NA Cam 227/234 .614"/.576" 113+2, ARP Head Bolts, BTR Platinum Springs, Ported FAST 90, NW 90mm TB, FAST 60lb Injectors, Textralia Clutch/Flywheel, T56, Cobra 8.8, 31 spline, trac-loc 3.55 Diff, Holley HP EFI, Racelogic TC.

Offline Gunnytron

Re: UK LS1 FD Gunnytron's build thread
« Reply #26 on: August 14, 2012, 02:18:42 PM »
Fuel pump turned up today. I initially intended to go with the Aeromotive 340 stealth but after doing a bit of reading decided that the Bosch 044 would be better due to its higher flow rates at higher pressures.

« Last Edit: December 09, 2017, 05:44:01 AM by Gunnytron »
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=12880.0
FD, LS1 running 220 3.90 Trickflow heads, Comp Ultra-gold Arc 1.72 Rockers, 7.550 BTR Pushrods, BTR Stage II NA Cam 227/234 .614"/.576" 113+2, ARP Head Bolts, BTR Platinum Springs, Ported FAST 90, NW 90mm TB, FAST 60lb Injectors, Textralia Clutch/Flywheel, T56, Cobra 8.8, 31 spline, trac-loc 3.55 Diff, Holley HP EFI, Racelogic TC.

Offline Gunnytron

Re: UK LS1 8.8 FD Gunnytron's build thread
« Reply #27 on: August 19, 2012, 02:31:30 PM »
Made some decent progress this weekend.

I was about to give up as the heat was getting to me and one particular nut was giving me grief. Luckily a neighbor lent me his grinder so thanks to him I managed to get the exhaust, powerplant frame, driveshaft and rear diff off.

Now there's a lot more room under the car, but a lot less on my garage floor.

I had a feel of the rear wheel hub bearings and one has a very slight click in it so I may have to replace those whilst they are off.

Offending nut mauled with a grinder


PPf, driveshaft, diff and exhaust parts finally off.




« Last Edit: December 09, 2017, 05:46:01 AM by Gunnytron »
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=12880.0
FD, LS1 running 220 3.90 Trickflow heads, Comp Ultra-gold Arc 1.72 Rockers, 7.550 BTR Pushrods, BTR Stage II NA Cam 227/234 .614"/.576" 113+2, ARP Head Bolts, BTR Platinum Springs, Ported FAST 90, NW 90mm TB, FAST 60lb Injectors, Textralia Clutch/Flywheel, T56, Cobra 8.8, 31 spline, trac-loc 3.55 Diff, Holley HP EFI, Racelogic TC.

Offline Gunnytron

Re: UK LS1 8.8 FD Gunnytron's build thread
« Reply #28 on: August 23, 2012, 07:56:21 AM »
Few bits turned up today.

In-tank fuel hose (5/16 ID)


Poly gearbox mount 3.1108g (sorry for blurry pic)
« Last Edit: December 09, 2017, 05:46:38 AM by Gunnytron »
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=12880.0
FD, LS1 running 220 3.90 Trickflow heads, Comp Ultra-gold Arc 1.72 Rockers, 7.550 BTR Pushrods, BTR Stage II NA Cam 227/234 .614"/.576" 113+2, ARP Head Bolts, BTR Platinum Springs, Ported FAST 90, NW 90mm TB, FAST 60lb Injectors, Textralia Clutch/Flywheel, T56, Cobra 8.8, 31 spline, trac-loc 3.55 Diff, Holley HP EFI, Racelogic TC.

Offline Gunnytron

Re: UK RHD LS1 8.8 FD Gunnytron's build thread
« Reply #29 on: August 25, 2012, 01:36:40 PM »
Started on my axle kit today. This thread http://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/300m-axle-conversion-writeup-550905/ has some good info on getting the drive shafts apart.

STAGE - 1

1 - Take all the clamping bands off the boots. I just pushed and twisted a small screw driver in the joins
2 - Remove the rubber boot from the hub end. I used WD40 to spray the axle so the boot would slide easily
3 - The link above suggests using a friend or a vice to hold the axle. I did the one-man version. Basically I screwed the hub nut back on and stood on it. I then pulled on the axle at the same time as smacking the hub end with a rubber mallet.



I had already taken the diff end off (wasn't really thinking) and that gave me a little more room to work with.

WARNING! you will end up shoving the axle into your chest. Now this doesn't hurt but (if like me) you have taken the diff end off, you will get covered in grease so you night want to put some tissue on the end.

I also recommend wrapping the hub end with tissue or a rag otherwise when you hit it, grease splats everywhere.

I might start assembly tomorrow though I appear to be short of some boot clamps (lost in the move?).
« Last Edit: December 09, 2017, 05:47:43 AM by Gunnytron »
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=12880.0
FD, LS1 running 220 3.90 Trickflow heads, Comp Ultra-gold Arc 1.72 Rockers, 7.550 BTR Pushrods, BTR Stage II NA Cam 227/234 .614"/.576" 113+2, ARP Head Bolts, BTR Platinum Springs, Ported FAST 90, NW 90mm TB, FAST 60lb Injectors, Textralia Clutch/Flywheel, T56, Cobra 8.8, 31 spline, trac-loc 3.55 Diff, Holley HP EFI, Racelogic TC.