March 14, 2025, 08:40:13 PM

Author Topic: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)  (Read 814162 times)

Offline frijolee

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #510 on: October 10, 2016, 04:19:24 PM »
Thanks for the advice...

Not a lot of pictures until I get the nose put back together (which I'm doing).  Looks like I have one challenge to get through first though.  My headlights seem to be aligning really poorly. 





It's almost like the upper core support cross bar the cut out of the donor nose, turned into a rainbow before they installed it on my car.  Then a 1/8" high position at the mount point results in almost 1/4" out of position at the corners.  From what I can tell there's almost no adjustability built into the headlight cover (like maybe +/- 3/32" at each corner of the upper skin).  I could carve up the structure but I'm a bit worried about screwing up some pivot alignment since there's so many joints involved.

Thoughts?

LS2 stroker FC, Mandeville big brakes, widebody, etc
Build thread:  http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.0
www.roninspeedworks.com

LargeOrangeFont says: "Joel is right, and I love Joel. But his car sounds like the wrath of God."   ;)

Offline largeorangefont

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #511 on: October 10, 2016, 04:44:12 PM »
A couple well placed whacks with a mallet and some wood and/or some adjustment of the mounting holes with a dremel. You can run the headlights up and down manually with the knobs on the motors to check for interference.
Quote from: cool
Sell it to spacevomit.  He'll finish it.

Offline eage8

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #512 on: October 10, 2016, 05:00:09 PM »
the brace probably warped when they welded it in...  I support hitting it with a hammer :P
'89 RX-7 TurboII - Ronin Widebody and Ford 8.8 - 13B lolz
'89 Corolla SR5 - 4A-GE 20 Valve 6 speed swap Megasquirt
'01 Impreza 2.5RS - Daily driver/rally-x car
'81 BMW R65

Offline AKINA FC

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #513 on: October 10, 2016, 05:04:29 PM »
Thanks for the advice...

Not a lot of pictures until I get the nose put back together (which I'm doing).  Looks like I have one challenge to get through first though.  My headlights seem to be aligning really poorly. 





It's almost like the upper core support cross bar the cut out of the donor nose, turned into a rainbow before they installed it on my car.  Then a 1/8" high position at the mount point results in almost 1/4" out of position at the corners.  From what I can tell there's almost no adjustability built into the headlight cover (like maybe +/- 3/32" at each corner of the upper skin).  I could carve up the structure but I'm a bit worried about screwing up some pivot alignment since there's so many joints involved.

Thoughts?

How is the bumper cover alignment? I would hang that just to see what's going on. I had to slot my covers ears to get things to come into alignment, along with that you can adjust the main headlight frame quite a bit before you run into bind on the adjusters as they are spherical ends. Headlight mounting has 4 main points - two up on the top of the rad support at the back of the light and two studs down on the face of the rad support, should be able to shim as needed, minus the BFH :cheers:

Offline frijolee

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #514 on: October 10, 2016, 05:31:26 PM »
Quick markup of a shot I took earlier to help describe this a bit more.



The one note says "had to notch these vertically" but the resize made it hard to read.

It'll be hard to BFH the upper mount point down since the new cross bar is spot welded along the length on the vertical backing plate underneath, but I might need to...  The BFH also sucks because that cross bar is so pretty and I'm going to marr it to hell even using wood.  The new crossbar is probably double the thickness I had before (it came from a vert which I'm guessing is the reason why).   I think I can get a touch out of the headlight frame since the mount point is on a slightly raised boss vs where the actual inside pivot is (the point driving the cover position).

I've reached out to the body shop to see what the say...

I can shim if I manage to BFH too far, but I don't think shims help me without use of the hammer to drive the upper inner mount points down first.

Good point on fitting the bumper cover.  I'll try that out for comparison.
LS2 stroker FC, Mandeville big brakes, widebody, etc
Build thread:  http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.0
www.roninspeedworks.com

LargeOrangeFont says: "Joel is right, and I love Joel. But his car sounds like the wrath of God."   ;)

Offline largeorangefont

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #515 on: October 10, 2016, 05:38:46 PM »
Agreed. Definitely fit the bumper cover before you do anything.
Quote from: cool
Sell it to spacevomit.  He'll finish it.

Offline eage8

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #516 on: October 10, 2016, 05:47:58 PM »
another thing you can try instead of a big hammer is to bolt some bar stock to the holes and try to twist the brace to lower the rear holes.
'89 RX-7 TurboII - Ronin Widebody and Ford 8.8 - 13B lolz
'89 Corolla SR5 - 4A-GE 20 Valve 6 speed swap Megasquirt
'01 Impreza 2.5RS - Daily driver/rally-x car
'81 BMW R65

Offline largeorangefont

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #517 on: October 10, 2016, 06:11:23 PM »
Good idea. You are not that far off Joel. If the bumper goes on and lines up reasonably well I think you'll just need a couple adjustments
Quote from: cool
Sell it to spacevomit.  He'll finish it.

Offline digitalsolo

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #518 on: October 10, 2016, 08:05:21 PM »
You can definitely tweak the cover mounting holes a bit also.   More like 1/8" up and 1/8" down if you slot the hole slightly.   :)

I'm in agreeance about adjusting the body mounting points with a bolt on plate + bar.   AFTER you validate bumper fitment.    Whatever you do, don't forget to lubricate with profanity!
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...
2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Gen V LT4/TR6060, upper/lower pullies, headers, tune.
2021 Tesla Model 3 Performance - Stock...ish.

Offline frijolee

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #519 on: October 11, 2016, 09:07:17 PM »
Couple shots of test fitment with bumper cover.  It was kinda hard to hold this in place and snap pictures, so some of the issues that look like gaps are more like elevation changes needed.  Certainly have some work to do though.



LS2 stroker FC, Mandeville big brakes, widebody, etc
Build thread:  http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.0
www.roninspeedworks.com

LargeOrangeFont says: "Joel is right, and I love Joel. But his car sounds like the wrath of God."   ;)

Offline frijolee

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #520 on: November 23, 2016, 12:54:28 PM »
XJ is back on the road, excellent camping/wheeling trip done, got it smogged.
FJ40 Black Friday shopping plans complete.
Must be time to get back to the RX7...

I'm heading some advice given here that my headlight adjustments should really be done with the bumper mounted.  While I'm puzzling over the lights I figured it might as well mount the bumper for real and that mean working on the mesh grill I had planned.  It's 1/16" woven SS wire on something like 5/16" squares (per a Carroll Smith book recommendation).  I must have bought this stuff from McMaster 3 years ago and it's been sitting in my side yard since.  It still looks mint, so that's a good sign regarding corrosion properties.  FWIW this was 3 square feet of mesh sized 48" x 9" (have to ask for the specifically or they will try to send you a 3' x 1' piece.  Ask me how I know  :banghead:).

I was worried about the edges fraying as I formed this over the edges so I decided to see if I could TIG it.  (Macro shot with torch for scale)



Answer is yes, but took some practice to get consistent and stop blowing through.  Best technique I found was to start on a upper strand directly, add a couple dabs of 0.030 filler to then pull the puddle down to the lower wire just before the upper puddle collapses.  I did about every 4th strand laid out on the perimeter I had planned.  The above was me about to rip the big sheet into three pieces (hence welded both sides of the cut).

Here it is roughed out.




And just like that it forms in nicely! 





No, not just like that, in fact NOT AT ALL "just like that" but hey this is the internet and we all live vicariously through the methodical slavery of others right?  Actually, forming wasn't too bad, just time heavy with a great deal of hammering over the edges of my weld table and some scrap clamped in a vice.  Well that and 50+ test fits...  Fine tuning done with standard pliers.  It was a damn good grip workout, particularly cutting stray strands in the corners with clippers.  The bigger cuts were ripped with an angle grinder.  That said, the welding worked great so I was stoked on that...


Here's what it should look like...  (Now is kinda my last chance to abort)






For install I was planning on just doing a healthy perimeter run with more heavy body seam sealer (3M 8308), but before I do...  Can anyone sell a reason I wouldn't want to bond this in permanently?  I could just hit it in spots so I have potential to cut it back out and/or through bolt the perimeter...

Only things I can come up with thus far are:

-I damage it somehow and need to replace it (possible, particularly with a tow hook protruding through)
-It totally screws my airflow to the radiator (unlikely)
-Harder to repaint down the road (not a huge deal)

Since I found I only had half a tube of seam sealer I figured it was worth posting up while the order comes in.

-Joel
« Last Edit: November 23, 2016, 01:03:01 PM by frijolee »
LS2 stroker FC, Mandeville big brakes, widebody, etc
Build thread:  http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.0
www.roninspeedworks.com

LargeOrangeFont says: "Joel is right, and I love Joel. But his car sounds like the wrath of God."   ;)

Offline Bowtie7

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #521 on: November 27, 2016, 10:03:27 AM »
Looks great! Don't mount it permanently for all the reasons you mentioned. I use safety wire or zip ties. Get busy and finish the traction control so you dont end up having to re-do everything!
I do love what I do!

Offline Sho Amo

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #522 on: December 07, 2016, 02:13:08 PM »
Im not a fan of it in silver. Maybe hidden better if its black.  :secret:
[Sold] '90 GTU LS1/t56

Offline frijolee

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #523 on: December 07, 2016, 03:12:23 PM »
If I could get it to stay black I'd consider it...  Problem is I just don't trust paint / powder / plasti-dip to hold up well enough long term when it's getting rocks thrown at it.  I am thinking I'll go black on the lip to drive your sight line down.
LS2 stroker FC, Mandeville big brakes, widebody, etc
Build thread:  http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.0
www.roninspeedworks.com

LargeOrangeFont says: "Joel is right, and I love Joel. But his car sounds like the wrath of God."   ;)

Offline largeorangefont

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #524 on: December 07, 2016, 03:38:39 PM »
Plastidip will hold up well and be easy to touch up if you wanted to go black.
Quote from: cool
Sell it to spacevomit.  He'll finish it.