Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)

[digitalsolo]

...shaving the Mazda logo you are...

Progress looks great!

[frijolee]

...shaving the Mazda logo you are...

Progress looks great!

Was there was ever a question about you knowing your FCs?   






Finished all my work at the body shop last night (they normally work till 7:00 but a stayed open until almost 8:00 last night so I could finish).  Classy, classy, classy.  The shop is RC Empire Auto Body in Orange CA if any of my SoCal brethren need a referral.  Love these folks...  It's a Mom and Pop (and Sons) shop, but damn they do outstanding work and they're just good people.

Haven't seen this view looking straight and sexy in a long time.




So now it's out of my hands.  Unfortunately in the process of making repairs. I discovered that my base coat isn't sticking well to the primer from back when I painted it, might have used the wrong temp product or incorrect ratio of reducer or...  who knows really.  They're going to have to sand down through that though (or chip it off) so this will take a bit.   Blocking and sanding estimated to take about a month. 

[AKINA FC]

Nice work Joel, glad to see you pushing forward again 

[frijolee]

Should be into primer shortly, they're getting mighty close.






Threw on the gas tank door extension I made a long time back so they could at least fair out the fender to match the lines.  Still need to figure out how to make the pop mechanism work but I think that can be done after the fact if I'm careful.




Ironically, they had just taken in another FC for paint.  Haven't seen a stock one getting love in a while.  Gotta wonder what he thought of me.   

[Sho Amo]

Im glad its getting some love. Your car made me want to build mine!

[frijolee]

Im glad its getting some love. Your car made me want to build mine!

Thanks, I'm glad too.  I basically had to hit the point of acknowledging I have less time than I have money.  That's not to say I'm rolling (far from it), but still there's less time than dinero.  That means having others do stuff for me.

My deal with RC Empire (body shop) worked out great because they let me come in and do a few things on my own, so I'm not paying them to figure out things which I had modified.

It was fully blocked and in primer as of a week and half ago.  Should be coming out any day now.




I went a little crazy with the seam sealer, but figured it was the right time to do so.

[digitalsolo]

Hah, I'm seam sealer CRAZY on the Mustang.  It looks like BMW seams if you've seen them.  Me no likey rust.

[frijolee]

 

[digitalsolo]

Shiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiny.

[frijolee]

I'm putting the nose of my FC back together and would likely some commentary on bundling the wiring.  Two questions:

1) Presently I have a 1/0 power cable running through a 250 A breaker (with apologies to Speedfab) then direct to the starter.  The starter uses double stacked terminals as a node and heads back out via 4 AWG around in front of the radiator to the FC's power distribution fuse block (the big 7 fuse jobbie).  My question is regarding this 4 AWG run around the nose:  The lug on the starter is kinda hard to get to with headers in.  On disassembly I undid the 4 AWG cable at the fuse block.  Now that I'm putting it back together I'm wondering if it's unwise to have it bundled together with all the other wiring up front.  I need to rewrap the harness across the nose and it'd be a bit cleaner to just let it all run in a single chunk of corrugated tubing.  Should I be concerned at all about cross talk running power cable in a bundle with all my relay wiring for the first couple feet?  Never noticed an issue, but I'm thinking about it.  Future maintainability goes up a touch if I run it separately, but it not a huge difference and the bay is cleaner with it bundled...  What would you do in my shoes?

2) I've had some issues supplying fan power to my dual Spals, pulling power straight off that same main fuse block.  I previous had some resistance in the spade connectors to fuses that resulted in burned fuses (not blown, burned from the resistance at the connection). I've since buttered it up with dielectric grease which seemed to cure things but I don't quite know where that's a "done done done" fix or whether it's still likely to be a bit marginal.  Have others had success running a healthy fan load off this fuse location?  Should I say screw it and throw in a fusible link instead?  I'm leaning toward assuming the dielctric is enough but thought it was worth posting up for some commentary.

Thanks,
Joel

[largeorangefont]

I run my fans off of the black wire that goes to the interior from that fuse terminal with no issues. I run one relay per fan, single speed. You could run an individual power run from separate fuses on the fuse block too.

I've never had a problem with my setup.

I'd throw the power wire in the bundle and call it good.

[frijolee]

If I were starting from scratch I'd do like you have.  However, I was coming off my Volvo single fan and had the DC Control FK-35 box already so I've been running that.  I love the PWM soft start functionality, but it means I have to feed both fans from a single power source.  To be fair, I need to repair the sensor lead on my FK-35 and if that turns out to be a pain to solder, I might still fish wires from the ECU to run relays.

[largeorangefont]

I guess I should measure what the amp draw is when these fans start. My guess is that your greasing may solve the issue. Those old terminals can get oxidized as you know. With the correct gauge wire I think you'd be ok.

[eage8]

1 - I'm running my wiring very similar to yours, but I'm running my wire from the starter up the frame rail to the fuse block.  you probably don't have the header clearance to do this, but might be able to run it up the trans to the firewall and across the pinch weld or something.  *shrug*

2 - I'm running dedicated fused and relayed wires from my circuit breaker up the passenger side of the car for my dual spal fans.  I haven't had any problems with fuses.

I'm also running both my oil cooler fan and my surge tank fuel pump (walbro 416) off the same main lug on the fuse block that the starter connects to with inline fuses, also no problems

[AKINA FC]

I'm putting the nose of my FC back together and would likely some commentary on bundling the wiring.  Two questions:

1) Presently I have a 1/0 power cable running through a 250 A breaker (with apologies to Speedfab) then direct to the starter.  The starter uses double stacked terminals as a node and heads back out via 4 AWG around in front of the radiator to the FC's power distribution fuse block (the big 7 fuse jobbie).  My question is regarding this 4 AWG run around the nose:  The lug on the starter is kinda hard to get to with headers in.  On disassembly I undid the 4 AWG cable at the fuse block.  Now that I'm putting it back together I'm wondering if it's unwise to have it bundled together with all the other wiring up front.  I need to rewrap the harness across the nose and it'd be a bit cleaner to just let it all run in a single chunk of corrugated tubing.  Should I be concerned at all about cross talk running power cable in a bundle with all my relay wiring for the first couple feet?  Never noticed an issue, but I'm thinking about it.  Future maintainability goes up a touch if I run it separately, but it not a huge difference and the bay is cleaner with it bundled...  What would you do in my shoes?

2) I've had some issues supplying fan power to my dual Spals, pulling power straight off that same main fuse block.  I previous had some resistance in the spade connectors to fuses that resulted in burned fuses (not blown, burned from the resistance at the connection). I've since buttered it up with dielectric grease which seemed to cure things but I don't quite know where that's a "done done done" fix or whether it's still likely to be a bit marginal.  Have others had success running a healthy fan load off this fuse location?  Should I say screw it and throw in a fusible link instead?  I'm leaning toward assuming the dielctric is enough but thought it was worth posting up for some commentary.

Thanks,
Joel

1 -- Bundle it, I have pretty much always do this on vehicles I wire and have never had a interference issue.

2 -- I had my fans tied into that same fuse block for years with no issues, fuse to relays to fan, controlled by the pcm - dual Spal's as well. I think the grease solved the connection problem you were having.

Now where are the rest of the pictures!!!