Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)

[eage8]

Did you just realign the steering wheel on the hub adapter?  or did you pull the entire thing off the taper?

did you ever disconnect the steering linkage?  maybe that's misaligned?

[frijolee]

Thanks Blake,  I'm not sure I even looked for wheel alignment behind the splines, since I was throwing this together fast.  I could have this all wrong, but it sounds like pulling the wheel back off if my first step regardless.

Thanks Ash, I'll give it a go.  FWIW, if anyone is interested one full rotation of a single tie rod yields about 1/4" toe.  If I'm looking for a 1/16" I want 90 deg on one side or 45 degree on both.

Eage,  Yes, it all came apart.  I swapped back to a power steering rack so linkage and everything was out.  I basically ball-parked the rack near the center of the stroke for reassembly and reconnected the linkage where it sat with it up in the air.  Steering wheel was pulled off the tapered spline but I can't remember what it looked like behind there so I figured it was worth the question. 

[eage8]

Thanks Ash, I'll give it a go. 

Did you just realign the steering wheel on the hub adapter?  or did you pull the entire thing off the taper?

did you ever disconnect the steering linkage?  maybe that's misaligned?

Oh yeah, it all came apart.  I swapped back to a power steering rack so linkage and everything was out.  I basically ball-parked the rack near the center of the stroke for reassembly and reconnected the linkage where it sat with it up in the air.  Steering wheel was pulled off the tapered spline but I can't remember what it looked like behind there so I figured it was worth the question.

I forget how it locates itself on the shaft also... it's been a while since I've had the canceler off.  something tells me you can't move it though...  I would put the steering wheel back on the way it was and try to adjust it as close as you can with the coupler u-joint thingy...

[Jordan Innovations]

Ha, using LS2 cam angle sensor and didn't know the wiring was different?



Totally kidding, glad you got it knocked out.  With larger front tires up front, you need a little toe out to keep turn-in characteristics good throughout the range of "yank it hard" and "sunday drive".  Toe in for the back is great for mid-corner drive.  FC's need camber up front too. 

[frijolee]

Drove it in to the office yesterday.  Had 6-7 guys come walking out when I pulled up, I guess they heard me coming.  Kinda fun, lots of kudos and nice things said about the car even though I have a bunch of body work on the hood still to do.

Did a wee little burn out in the back lot and this might be the first time I've ever had it spin the tires perfectly smooth from a dead stop.  Wheel hop had been my nemesis for a long time prior to the 8.8 setup.


It's seen WOT a few times now and I can't get over the pull.  That said, I need to get a wideband on the car before I start pushing it.  I'm assuming the tuning things we did should have it close, but I think I've been having too much fun when I need to be patient and be sure everything is 100% right.  Idle has a little bit of rythmic staccato sound to it that I can't place.  I'm planning to do a compression check since it reminds me a bit of blown piston rings I screwed up on a 4 banger one time (long story but suffice it to say nitrous is not my friend). 

Anyone have links to actual published break in procedures?  I think everyone agrees mixed driving is good, but some folks say to keep it easy and part throttle while others claim running it hard is good for seating the piston rings.  I'm mostly in the later camp, but I don't really have a good reason why, it just makes some sense to me.

[Jordan Innovations]

Taking it easy will ensure that nothing bad happens, but if cylinder pressures never get up there while the rings are in the process of sealing, they'll never seal as well as they could have.  Same (or more importantly) with the oil control rings.

I did multiple SBK engines in my GSXR1000 when I was racing (semi) competitively and when a buddy and I did side-by-side breakins, the motors made within .5hp of each other before break in and were 6-7hp apart (with my 'hard/varied' breakin ahead) a couple hundred miles later... mine 'sounded'/felt smoother too, but that could just me my neurosis. 

IMO breaking it in on the dyno is good, on the track is best!  Street breakin involves getting it up to temp a few times then taking it out to the freeway for 10 or 15mi of pulls from light throttle, low rpms, to heavy throttle mid rpms, to high throttle high rpms - letting engine braking seal the oil rings after every pull (not much foot braking).  Take it back, change the oil to look for shiny goodies, and let 'er rip.   

[largeorangefont]

Get a wideband on it soon Joel, I can bring mine over if needed. My car felt great when I started driving it. Then I put the wideband on it and saw I was a point too lean. It picked up a lot of power after giving it some more fuel.

I concour with Jefe.. I broke mine in semi aggressively, lots of varied RPM on the freeway,  different gears, letting it engine brake, rev matching and downshifting. I changed the oil after 30 mins, 50 miles, 150 miles, 250 miles, 500 miles, 1000 miles and 1600 miles. I have a bit over 2000 miles now, and the oil really started to clean up after this last oil change.

I ran with 10w30 until 500 miles and switched to 20w50.

That

[frijolee]

Jeff, thanks for the feedback. Nice to have a practical data point.

Ash, I picked up a wide band gauge that I plan to run on my steering column, but I still need to weld the bung and graft in a mini pod. I also just bought the innovate exhaust clamp (even though I know you have one) just because that'll make my other standalone wide band that much easier to use on everything else. That should be here on Friday so I can play with it this weekend.

I don't know how much power this has left in it but either way I think this car is going to love traction control... 

[Jordan Innovations]

^^^ That's what I like to hear!

I have a pair of Zeitronix wb02's that I'd give ya if you wanted em.  Reading both banks is rad.

[largeorangefont]

Ash, I picked up a wide band gauge that I plan to run on my steering column, but I still need to weld the bung and graft in a mini pod. I also just bought the innovate exhaust clamp (even though I know you have one) just because that'll make my other standalone wide band that much easier to use on everything else. That should be here on Friday so I can play with it this weekend.

I don't know how much power this has left in it but either way I think this car is going to love traction control... 

Perfect. If you want to check it in the meantime let me know. I would imagine the tune is reasonably close, but the engine size was not spot on in the tune, so give it a once over before you start putting the wood to it.

[frijolee]

I took my four year old out for a ride which always makes for a pretty awesome daddy daughter date.  For whatever reason I expect my girls to be goldfish and not remember anything from a year or more back.  Lana was telling me how she remembered the last drive I took her on: 



Yeah, she was two in this picture!

Anyways, the not so great news is that I threw another couple engine codes.
-P0300 Multiple Cylinder Misfire
-P0153 2/1 02 Sens Slow Response

The misfire is likely the explanation for the rhythmic idle tone I was hearing but I've decided I'm mostly going to garage this thing again until I get it squared away.  Hopefully I have some time to play this weekend. 

The one thing that's interesting is that the 02 sensor that's protesting is Bank 2, Position 1 (the 2/1 in the code above) which I don't think I actually have.  If I'm remembering this right Bank 1 contains the number 1 cylinder, and positions are relative to flow.  As such we're talking about the passenger side upstream 02 sensor which in my case is an 02 sim.  That should help me start looking but it's a little odd given the sim. 

[EDIT: ignore the above, I was thinking about this backward... upstream 02's I have, downstream are the sims!]

[digitalsolo]

Why don't you have a passenger oxygen sensor?

[scuter83]

I can't remember, but did you put in a lighter flywheel this go around?  Could answer your misfire codes depending how light you went.  Also, have you tried re-learning CASE just in case?

Also, you put an O2 simulator in for a front sensor?  So it is just seeing one voltage now and not switching?  That might not jive with the diagnostic tests that set at P0153.

[frijolee]

Sorry, I was thinking about this backwards.  The 02's upstream of the cat should be the ones that matter (those I have).  Downstream is reference after the cat and those are sims on my car.  I left all the wiring in case I need to switch back to factory manifolds /cats at some point in the future.  Now the code makes sense and says, I do need to double check the 02 since it is the main passenger 02 that's having the issue. 

FWIW I'm a novice with tuning.  Care to explain CASE relearn and why you'd do one?  I'm running the same Monster billet flywheel I had and the only change to the clutch was the friction disc and hydraulic routing.

[scuter83]

CASE = Crankshaft Angle Sensor Error.  Basically it is a procedure if a new crank sensor, ECU, damper, etc. gets installed that allows the ECU to learn the inconsisencies or build tolerances of parts.  This is learned and stored away and is taken into consideration when the misfire logic is used.  It would allow the misfire diagnostics to understand these errors and not falsely set misfire codes, or perhaps even miss misfire events depending on the previous CASE learn value.

I am not saying it will solve your problem, but it might be worth a shot.