March 14, 2025, 08:21:41 PM

Author Topic: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)  (Read 814148 times)

Offline frijolee

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #345 on: November 04, 2013, 10:58:30 PM »
For reference, what length drive shaft did you go with since your using all Ronin parts?

Mine worked out to be 33 7/8" as measured center to center on the U-joints.  That just clears the two piece yoke in the retracted position.  However, this could change for others depending on what yokes and/or flanges they use.  DSS only takes about a week and half to make a shaft so the most reliable method is always going to be to measure yourself.
LS2 stroker FC, Mandeville big brakes, widebody, etc
Build thread:  http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.0
www.roninspeedworks.com

LargeOrangeFont says: "Joel is right, and I love Joel. But his car sounds like the wrath of God."   ;)

Offline largeorangefont

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #346 on: November 04, 2013, 11:12:00 PM »
DSS only takes about a week and half to make a shaft so the most reliable method is always going to be to measure yourself.

To echo Joel... always measure the distance yourself just to be safe. If the shaft is slightly too long, you won't be able to get it in with the 2 piece front yoke. Mine has about 1/4" clearance to get in and out.

Quote from: cool
Sell it to spacevomit.  He'll finish it.

Offline frijolee

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #347 on: November 26, 2013, 01:58:17 AM »
Surge Tank and PCV catch can

I never liked the fact that my old radiator setup didn't automatically purge itself of bubbles so I've been working on a surge tank (aka expansion tank) using the tried and true Howe expansion tank.  I went direct to Howe so I could orient it how I wanted and use a little nicer fittings but it's the same basic idea that a lot of folks have run.



That said, once this had a bracket welded it in, there was not way to tighten or loosen the 90 degree fitting at the bottom (it couldn't spin a 360 without contact.)  At the same time I was trying to figure out how best to package a trick little catch can I'm planning for my PCV line since I don't really want to be sending oil back into my intake manifold.

Quick side note on the PCV catch can.  I did quite a bit of looking before I picked what I did.  The catch can itself is a product of research and experimentation coming from some corvette guys.  This was the post that really got me thinking.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-tech/1899749-catch-can-experiments-continue.html

Key post from the link:

Quote
"Regarding the filters I am currently using:

The first one in-line with the PCV-to-intake hose is the
Watts 504-02DH (a particulate filter that is a bit more "open" when compared to the F501 coalescing filter). This is followed by the Watts F501-02DHX67 (coalescing filter that includes a mounting bracket).

I swapped the zinc body of the F504 with my extended length aluminum housing, since much of the non-aerosol liquids will be trapped there. Keep in mind that if I had room for only one filter, it would be the F501 coalescing assembly. This is what I ran for 6000 miles and from what I can see in the return hose, only a small amount of oil made its way through. But this is why I'm trying out the combo - so far (1000 miles), so good - no oil in the hose.

I am going to start testing a new design (when I get back to work, where there are a few environmental chambers) soon, It will include a Watts F501, but will have a newly designed top piece and body. More info will follow. I can PM you with more info as the testing progresses."

After all that I figure I could either just run two filters in line (exactly as the gent recommended) or I could order from him and support a small vendor doing interesting stuff.  I went with the later.

Couple good reads:
http://www.conceptualpolymer.com/PCV%20Line%20Oil%20Removal%20102.pdf
http://www.conceptualpolymer.com/Air_Oil%20SeparationBeyondBasics.pdf

I did the high efficiency version with the glass reservoir (just something you don't normally see under the hood).
http://www.conceptualpolymer.com/High%20Efficiency%20Air.htm

The problem was that I didn't have a good place to put that.  I did go back to power steering (going to be trying out some Turn one goodies) so the driver's head is taken.  I wasn't that excited about more lines bridging between block and engine compartment walls.  Between that and the fact I didn't really like how my expansion tank was lining up (the line to radiator ran uphill even though I'd mounted that as high as I could), I decided to get a little creative.



I think most of us have taken a perfectly good part and cut it up at some point so it's nothing new but still...  Making this change was the straw that broke the camel's back for trying to finish my car for SevenStock.

Recapped tank, added mount point for PCV, tapped filter for m6 hardware (it came with some tiny stuff), moved input npt thread to the side (which will let my line flow downhill as God intended).



That little bonus bracket to the left is there as insurance to be sure the glass jar can't vibrate loose and drop off.  Here it is in position.



Backside:



To service this I'll just undo the two fittings closest to the radiator cap and pick up vertically.  I should have enough flex in the lines to be able to unscrew and dump.  I intentionally oriented my tank this way so that the overflow line would exit toward the block and route underneath.



What do you think, leave it raw or powdercoat it black?  I'm thinking the later as it should offset the powersteering on the other side.

Added bonus:  I have only half the weight of the fluid up high on my block.  I didn't see a reason I would need any real volume up there.
« Last Edit: November 26, 2013, 02:24:24 AM by frijolee »
LS2 stroker FC, Mandeville big brakes, widebody, etc
Build thread:  http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.0
www.roninspeedworks.com

LargeOrangeFont says: "Joel is right, and I love Joel. But his car sounds like the wrath of God."   ;)

Offline frijolee

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #348 on: November 26, 2013, 07:58:57 PM »
By the way, I'm finding that different manufacturer's use substantially different anodizing colors.  I'm out to re-order some stuff in XRP just so it'll match my fuel setup.   :(  I just figured if this thing is going to make appearances at shows and the like I should make it as good as I can.
LS2 stroker FC, Mandeville big brakes, widebody, etc
Build thread:  http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.0
www.roninspeedworks.com

LargeOrangeFont says: "Joel is right, and I love Joel. But his car sounds like the wrath of God."   ;)

Offline Shavel

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #349 on: November 26, 2013, 09:34:53 PM »
That's a beefy setup!  Great read.
Ant

Offline largeorangefont

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #350 on: November 26, 2013, 09:38:17 PM »
By the way, I'm finding that different manufacturer's use substantially different anodizing colors.  I'm out to re-order some stuff in XRP just so it'll match my fuel setup.   :(  I just figured if this thing is going to make appearances at shows and the like I should make it as good as I can.

Yes I hate that everyone's blue is different.

Always go black or strip anodizing with easy off :)

Great work on the expansion tank/catch can. I would go black with it. It will start to oxidize over time, then you'll be stuck in a rut of polishing it to keep it looking good.
Quote from: cool
Sell it to spacevomit.  He'll finish it.

Offline theantirotor

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #351 on: November 26, 2013, 11:16:42 PM »
id coat the tank.
:bacon:

Offline frijolee

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #352 on: November 27, 2013, 02:16:04 PM »
I think you're right that it'll stay nicer, longer with some powder on top.  Just curious, for folks with billet parts that see real winter do you do anything to protect those?  I don't know that I'd want to try powdering my NW throttle body and I at least have the advantage that SoCal makes corrosion a bit less of a concern.
LS2 stroker FC, Mandeville big brakes, widebody, etc
Build thread:  http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.0
www.roninspeedworks.com

LargeOrangeFont says: "Joel is right, and I love Joel. But his car sounds like the wrath of God."   ;)

Offline digitalsolo

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #353 on: November 27, 2013, 02:17:26 PM »
I take a red scotchbrite to all my billet stuff to make it brushed.   Easy to touch up later.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...
2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Gen V LT4/TR6060, upper/lower pullies, headers, tune.
2021 Tesla Model 3 Performance - Stock...ish.

Offline largeorangefont

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #354 on: November 27, 2013, 04:18:47 PM »
I take a red scotchbrite to all my billet stuff to make it brushed.   Easy to touch up later.

Good call.

If you can pull it apart, maybe black anodize it :)
Quote from: cool
Sell it to spacevomit.  He'll finish it.

Offline Bowtie7

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #355 on: November 28, 2013, 11:05:44 AM »
Looks great! I personally really like wrinkle black powder coat.
I do love what I do!

Offline frijolee

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #356 on: January 15, 2014, 01:00:59 PM »
Getting close now...  Car's made noise a few times (and damn it's loud).  Figured I should post a couple pictures of the expansion tank and overflow as I have those 99% done.

I ended upon going with black gloss powder since I already had a few wrinkle finish details elsewhere and I wanted the contrast. 




One annoying thing about the Howe tank that everyone runs is that you can't easily use a 90 deg npt to hose barb fitting.  The tip of the fitting will crash into the body and you try to turn it and you can't quite get it tight.  Samberg an everyone else provides a 90 deg npt to npt brass fitting and a separate npt to barb.  My solution, since I'm trying to have fittings match:  break out the 1/4" tube bender and get clever with a vise. 






And here it is all installed.






I couldn't find an off the shelf overflow tank I liked so I ended up making my own you can see it peaking out in the above.






Cap w/ bung are welded from the inside and came from Summit.  Pretty happy with my Invertig 221, but since I wanted this to be pretty Anthony (v8-rx7) burned it together for me.  Thanks amigo!  You do awesome stuff.

Not shown are two 1/8" npt bungs on the side facing radiator.  The radiator cap overflow feeds/draws from the bottom.  If it fills the tank (~1.5 quarts) it'll puke from the fitting at the top.
« Last Edit: January 15, 2014, 01:19:48 PM by frijolee »
LS2 stroker FC, Mandeville big brakes, widebody, etc
Build thread:  http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.0
www.roninspeedworks.com

LargeOrangeFont says: "Joel is right, and I love Joel. But his car sounds like the wrath of God."   ;)

Offline frijolee

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #357 on: January 16, 2014, 09:04:35 PM »
Public Service Notice: when wrenching under your car with a cold be careful when you sneeze least you headbutt your under carriage.

Owwwwww!

That's all.
LS2 stroker FC, Mandeville big brakes, widebody, etc
Build thread:  http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.0
www.roninspeedworks.com

LargeOrangeFont says: "Joel is right, and I love Joel. But his car sounds like the wrath of God."   ;)

Offline N2v8fcs

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #358 on: January 16, 2014, 09:16:04 PM »
Looks good!
When do you expect that she'll be road ready?
:drive:
new personal best 11.45 @ 120 mph N/A car...9.11 @152 mph for the turbo car.


1987 FC  355 SBC, T-5, T2 rear        retired 5-4-11
1991 FC  383 SBC, sold to Dad. Now 5.3 w 76mm turbo, G-force T-5, 8.8 Ronin rear 
1990 FC  370 CID 6.0 w 88mm turbo, Powerglide, Ronin 8.8 w 3.15 gears

Offline frijolee

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #359 on: January 16, 2014, 10:07:07 PM »
There's an informal bring your toys to work day on the 31st (Bbq & beer after work) . Even if I show up sans hood, that's my new goal.

Left: finish exhaust (about six seams and hanger needed), wire fan, fill coolant system, flash ecu for proper injectors, button up wiring at the main fuse box (related to fan wiring).

I'm dang close.
« Last Edit: February 24, 2014, 12:05:35 PM by frijolee »
LS2 stroker FC, Mandeville big brakes, widebody, etc
Build thread:  http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.0
www.roninspeedworks.com

LargeOrangeFont says: "Joel is right, and I love Joel. But his car sounds like the wrath of God."   ;)